Power Door Locks tough to operate

[ChevLoRay]

My power locks are sluggish. I have to hit the button several times to unlock the passenger door and turning the key on the outside is also a tough putt. The inside lock button is "heavy", so besides pulling off the door panels and lubing the "business", am I looking at having to replace any component?

At first, I thought it might just be the inside manual lock button that is the problem, but now I'm not so sure.

Anyone else have issues with theirs? What did you do to fix it? I shot some WD-40 into the key slot on both external locks, but that had no effect, so I don't believe it is the actual lock cylinder. Still, that leaves several other spots that have movement and parts.

[tommie]

I have had to take the doors apart and lube the heck out of the door latch mechanism....

that has worked for me in the past...

[Boog]

I have had some success removing the latch and cleaning it real good and using white lube when the old latches had old dried up grease on them. Considering the age of the 96 maybe new latches are in order. While I don't find them at local parts stores listings I did find them at LMC for $49.95 each.
It may be that the power lock actuator is the problem. I had this problem on my daughter's truck. Using the remote the actuators would only move the lever a small bit but not enough to unlock it. Using the key to unlock the door was also stiff. A new actuator cured that one.

[ChevLoRay]

Jim, that sounds exactly like what I have. Passenger door is the sluggish one. Reckon that a nearly 16-yr old vehicle is entitled to have issues.

[89chevsj]

since it still works i would assume its just dirty and gummed up. do not use WD40 all that will do is attract more dust and dirt and you'll be right back where you started. use an electric motor/parts cleaner. and you should be good. otherwise check relays and or switches.

[Legolas894]

The lock mechanism consists of a rod that goes from the lock lever to the power lock actuator. The rod runs through a guide that can get sticky as well. Taking the trim panel off is pretty easy. You can leave the switches connected to the harness but remove the bezel that holds them to the side and slip them through the holes. Then you have about 10 7mm screws to remove and you can tilt the inside enough so that you can try the rod manually to see if it's hard to move. It can also get bent out of shape.
White lithium grease on the guides helps. You can get new rods from LMC truck as well as the door handles locks etc.

The actuator maybe be at fault and it's not too hard to remove but you do have to drill out three or so rivets that hold it on.

Good luck.

[mountie]

I replaced my door lock & window switches a couple weeks ago. (Thank you, LMC)...... The old switches are an internal rocker switch. They get sluggish, and also you have to tap them sometimes to get them to work. The window action sometimes 'sticks' and you have a switch that raises the window with a single touch, remove your finger and it raises the window up all the way. (Switch sticks in the up or down mode)..The switches are replaced by a stiff putty knife. Carefully pry them out & the new ones just plug in. The up/down or lock-unlock works great when changed.

Additional service is to pop out the10"x3" plastic switch bezel & clean the electrical contacts behind the modular switches.

This is a suggestion if you might think the window motor seems fine.

I don't have pictures..... my truck is on a transport in Southern California, leaving today & getting here in Florida by the end of this week.

ALSO..... I did a stupid thing.... Last year I replaced the interior lock lever assy..... A cheap copy. It works & breaks as a cheap replacement. I'm getting the real thing soon.

[Legolas894]

Originally Posted by mountie

ALSO..... I did a stupid thing.... Last year I replaced the interior lock lever assy..... A cheap copy. It works & breaks as a cheap replacement. I'm getting the real thing soon.

I was really mad when the door handle broke in my '98 Suburban. Imagine if you were in a roll over accident and trying to get out only to have the handle break in your hand! When mine broke it cut my hand as well and left a sharp stub poking out of the bezel. A real piece of trash. No excuse for that to happen period.

The GM ones are just as cheap in my opinion since they shouldn't have broke in the first place. They say "Made in Canada"-no excuse there. A poor design is a poor design. GM has cut so many corners to save a penny here and there that it drives you crazy when stuff just falls apart.

My '67 still has the orginal door handles interior and exterior. There was quality in manufacturing and a little over design then. I think that's gone now.

Sad.

[mountie]

I plan to beef up the area where the inside door lever pivots. Using epoxy putty around the plastic. There is space to do it fortunately.

I can assume if the linkage from the outside handle to the inside handle is not correct, it would force extra strain on the weak material at the inside lever pin.