What's the black paint that comes on keyparts panels? Paint,primer,weldable primer?

[Custom/Ten]

Question pretty much says it all, what kind of paint is on the Keyparts stuff? What are you guys doing to it before painting or welding? What are you guys doing to areas you can't see like inside a rocker, fender, or kick panel? It seems like it may be just a protectant for shipping which is fine, I just need to know what I'm dealing with.

[hugger6933]

Ok, here we go there USED to be two kinds of black stuff on aftermarket panels, type one black lacquer primer. The way to tell is by a panel test and that is taking a small amount of lacquer thinner on a rag and wipe it on the panel. If you have black come off on the rag, it is just cheap primer and it needs to come off and have some epoxy primer applied. The second type is more along the lines of what the OE's use, and EDP. That stands for electro deposited plating [or in some instances primer]. It is the best you could hope for and I haven't seen type one [black primer ] used in quite a few years. You can leave it as is on the inside of panels or scuff and paint or spray a weld through primer in there or even a wax cavity fill type stuff.
ANYTHING is better than what the General used back in the day witch is nothing. Any panel that are welded or doubled walled in this type truck has NO rust proofing or even primer on them what so ever!! I have taken some of my best doors and cut one open [to hammer out a little damage] and the door was quite rusty inside as well as bedsides and anything like I said that is doubled.
So if you leave the black stuff alone you will be fine or if you r the OCD type use a weld through or cavity wax after wards those would be the best bet . Jim

[special-K]

Pretty sure it's EDP

[Custom/Ten]

Ok thanks for all that info, I'll try the test wipe just to be safe and see what I get.

[mmiddle]

I have fitted my outer rockers for now with aluminum rivets when I am done with all the rust repair and body mods my plan is to sand blast them inside and out along with everything else. Por15 the insides then weld in place. Eastwood sales an aerosol zinc frame primer with a long tube to get into hidden spaces that I am going to use to add extra protections and cover the welded areas.
ANYTHING is better than the nothing GM used back in the day.

[hugger6933]

Well I said there are a couple different kinds, I haven't seen anything but a EDP used on all the parts I've bought over the last say ten plus years. I would be safe to say that it is most likely an EDP on the metal. If you were to use a weld through primer on the surfaces that are to be welded just be sure to follow the directions cause they need to be ground down with something to bare before using the weldable primer, I guess if you don't then the EDP will burn that is all I can think of for that reason.

[Custom/Ten]

Ok, thanks again

[michael bustamante]

i work for national auto parts and sell aftermarket replacement front end crash parts. primer is edp and is ready to scuff and spray. on the undersides though, if you live in a rainy environment i would spray more primer or protective coating on the undersides as the primer is real thin on these parts.
GO for CAPA certified, they are always the better quality and better fitting. LKQ has this as "platinum plus"

[Fitz]

Originally Posted by Custom/Ten

Question pretty much says it all, what kind of paint is on the Keyparts stuff? What are you guys doing to it before painting or welding? What are you guys doing to areas you can't see like inside a rocker, fender, or kick panel? It seems like it may be just a protectant for shipping which is fine, I just need to know what I'm dealing with.

It's either EDP or some cheap black spray laquer. In either case it isn't weldable so sand it back where you have to weld, spray the bare metal on the new part and the mating surfaces with a good zinc based weld through primer before you weld in the new piece. Respray with the same stuff after you're done and you're seams are more rustproof than your truck ever was from the factory.

[franken]

The parts come from Asia so it could be anything black. Remember the babyfood scare a few years ago?

[hugger6933]

Well as far as the EDP parts being ready to scuff and shoot, I would only hold that as a last resort. I know that even on my GM panels it doesn't provide the best foundation for paint. I scuff sand with 220 some times I may use a 400 grit but normally it is a 220 cause the boxes rough up the EDP a lot. Then after sanding I spray 2 to 3 coats of high build primer on then call it ready for paint. The paint just doesn't do as well in my opinion [and I have no proof but my opinion]with just a scuffed EDP. Now i'm basing this on the EDP panels that are GM Replacement panels cause I have lots more of those in my shop than the aftermarket stuff. If and when I do use the aftermarket stuff say on a older truck, I sometimes [on the outside] sand it with 120 grit then220 grit after that I epoxy prime then high build. I leave the inside with the EDP and 220 it as normal then high build it when the outside is done. I have a large sheet rack that I built to hod a couple of fenders or a couple of doors so I can prime both sides at one time. Otherwise I have them on the fold-able body stand then prime [dry] then flip and repeat. Jim

[special-K]

Originally Posted by franken

The parts come from Asia so it could be anything black. Remember the babyfood scare a few years ago?

The coat the parts to Key Parts specs, which is EDP. This doesn't have anything to do with baby food. Was that from Taiwan or China. They are two different countries.

[Tim Christian]

It is EDP. I actually work for Key Parts below is a little info on it:

This process is industrially used for applying coatings to metal fabricated products. It has been widely used to coat automobile bodies and parts, tractors and heavy equipment, electrical switch gear, appliances, metal furniture, beverage containers, fasteners, and many other industrial products.

EPD processes are often applied for the fabrication of supported titanium dioxide (TiO2) photocatalysts for water purification applications, using precursor powders which can be immobilised using EPD methods onto various support materials. Thick films produced this way allow cheaper and more rapid synthesis relative to sol-gel thin-films, along with higher levels of photocatalyst surface area.

In the fabrication of solid oxide fuel cells EPD techniques are widely employed for the fabrication of porous ZrO2 anodes from powder precursors onto conductive substrates.

EPD processed have a number of advantages which have made such methods widely used[1]

The process applies coatings which generally have a very uniform coating thickness without porosity.
Complex fabricated objects can easily be coated, both inside cavities as well as on the outside surfaces.
Relatively high speed of coating.
Relatively high purity.
Applicability to wide range of materials (metals, ceramics, polymers, )
Easy control of the coating composition.
The process is normally automated and requires less human labor than other coating processes.
Highly efficient utilization of the coating materials result in lower costs relative to other processes.
The aqueous process which is commonly used has less risk of fire relative to the solvent-borne coatings that they have replaced.
Modern electrophoretic paint products are significantly more environmentally friendly than many other painting technologies.
Thick, complex ceramic pieces have been made in several research laboratories. Furthermore, EPD has been used to produce customized microstructures, such as functional gradients and laminates, through suspension control during processing.[2]