1952 3800 1 Ton Tapered Roller Bearings

[ChevyBrad]

I have a 1952 3800 1 Ton that I am about to do the front disk brake swap on and I am interested in converting to tapered roller bearing for the front wheel bearings. Does anyone have any experience with this? I see Chevsofthe40s advertises to have replacement bearings but has anyone confirmed they do indeed fit? Thanks, Brad.

[dwcsr]

Call them and ask if it has t he inner register on the bearing that the seals ride on, if not what comes with it to make up the seal ring surface. On 1947-1959 the seal rides on the inner bearings inner race not on the spindle like older truck so there needs to be something extra or it must be on the inner cone race to work.

[ChevyBrad]

Absolutely, that is exactly what my concern is. I'll give them a call and ask. I just figured I'd check to see if anyone has a first hand account. I'm sure if they have been selling them for a while and no one has complained, then they will know they must work.

[ChevyBrad]

Thank you for the response as well dwcsr. I am going to order the disk brake conversion from you with in the month. I am pleased with the R&D you put into the package. It looks like a high quality Made in the USA product. I just have a quick question. Do you happen to know if 16" 90s Ford steel wheels clear the Chevy Calipers the kit is designed around? I know there were 16" wheels on the duramax in 2003 but most wheels are shaped different inside so you can never be sure. Thanks.

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by ChevyBrad

Absolutely, that is exactly what my concern is. I'll give them a call and ask. I just figured I'd check to see if anyone has a first hand account. I'm sure if they have been selling them for a while and no one has complained, then they will know they must work.

I have been told by them on occasion that parts they list as fitting 3/4 and 1 ton don't actually fit 3/4 and 1 ton. So make sure they allow you to return them if they don't

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by ChevyBrad

Thank you for the response as well dwcsr. I am going to order the disk brake conversion from you with in the month. I am pleased with the R&D you put into the package. It looks like a high quality Made in the USA product. I just have a quick question. Do you happen to know if 16" 90s Ford steel wheels clear the Chevy Calipers the kit is designed around? I know there were 16" wheels on the duramax in 2003 but most wheels are shaped different inside so you can never be sure. Thanks.

We had 17" stock wheels, and Ford 16" and a Duramax size unknown

[mr48chev]

I don't know of a tapered bearing conversion kit for the 3800. That doesn't mean there isn't one but I have never seen one.

The outer bearing most likely isn't a problem as you measure OD and ID and go to the bearing chart The inner isn't going to be that easy though.

Someone sells an "adapter" for the inner race of a 3100 that lets you put late model rotors and hubs on the spindle or if you look at this link for disk brakes for a 3100 look below the caliper brackets and you see machined spacers to fit the tapered bearings that fit the hubs to the spindles and space them out properly and the seal most likely rides on that adapter. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Deluxe...ckup,4622.html

It might be that you have to have something like that machined to adapt a tapered bearing to the spindle. That should be a one shot deal that lets you use a standard tapered bearing rather than a special bearing.

Are you using the stock hubs and putting rotors on them or ?

[dwcsr]

Originally Posted by mr48chev

I don't know of a tapered bearing conversion kit for the 3800. That doesn't mean there isn't one but I have never seen one.

The outer bearing most likely isn't a problem as you measure OD and ID and go to the bearing chart The inner isn't going to be that easy though.

Someone sells an "adapter" for the inner race of a 3100 that lets you put late model rotors and hubs on the spindle or if you look at this link for disk brakes for a 3100 look below the caliper brackets and you see machined spacers to fit the tapered bearings that fit the hubs to the spindles and space them out properly and the seal most likely rides on that adapter. http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Deluxe...ckup,4622.html

It might be that you have to have something like that machined to adapt a tapered bearing to the spindle. That should be a one shot deal that lets you use a standard tapered bearing rather than a special bearing.

Are you using the stock hubs and putting rotors on them or ?

The kit uses stock spindle and hub. Mt though on the chevs of the 40s was it would need that spacer your talking about. the inner is actually the easier one to get ,The outer is a mongrel bearing.

We looked at doing these conversions but its such a small market, maybe two a year, and it would be a very expensive swap, in the $400 to $500 range, that I don't think it would sell at all. The ball bearings seem to hold up fine with disc swaps as long as their in good condition and properly maintained.

[whitedog76]

I've used a tapered bearing kit for my 3600. (The 3600, 3800, and 4100 use the same bearings.)

They were made by a company called MBS out of Japan. I got 2 from Chevs of the 40's and 2 from Classic. (It was cheaper that way.) Anyway, I'm not for sure if they are being made anymore, or they're selling old stock. The Tsunami a few years ago changed things in Japan.

They are Extemely Beefy bearings. Quality was top notch. But, they fit incredibly tight on my spindles. I had to emery the crap out of them. Same goes for the race, very tight. Lots of emery time.

The next issue was the seal, The OE felt seal won't work. You need the Timken 40973S (I think that's right). The trick is, you CANNOT drive it in all the way.

My last issue was fitment, I couldn't get the hubs to tighten up on the spindle. I ended up getting some thin machine bushings and putting them between the bearing and spindle.

IF I HAD TO DO IT OVER AGAIN I WOULD STICK WITH THE OEM BALL BEARINGS!

Here's a pic of the bearings in question.
http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/wh...tml?sort=6&o=5

[whitedog76]

Another image

[abig84]

I'm slowly building a 52 3800 myself and couldn't find much for disc swaps that weren't very expensive. I'm kind of going a original route. Basically using 77 3/4ton dana 44 outers. So basically using a dana 44 front axle without the actual center differential. That way all the bearings and brakes are taken care of.

Though I have all the parts I just haven't got to putting It all together yet

[ChevyBrad]

Originally Posted by dwcsr

We had 17" stock wheels, and Ford 16" and a Duramax size unknown

Alright, no problem. Just thought I would ask. I'll just see once I get them installed.

[ChevyBrad]

Originally Posted by whitedog76

I've used a tapered bearing kit for my 3600. (The 3600, 3800, and 4100 use the same bearings.)

They were made by a company called MBS out of Japan. I got 2 from Chevs of the 40's and 2 from Classic. (It was cheaper that way.) Anyway, I'm not for sure if they are being made anymore, or they're selling old stock. The Tsunami a few years ago changed things in Japan.

They are Extemely Beefy bearings. Quality was top notch. But, they fit incredibly tight on my spindles. I had to emery the crap out of them. Same goes for the race, very tight. Lots of emery time.

The next issue was the seal, The OE felt seal won't work. You need the Timken 40973S (I think that's right). The trick is, you CANNOT drive it in all the way.

My last issue was fitment, I couldn't get the hubs to tighten up on the spindle. I ended up getting some thin machine bushings and putting them between the bearing and spindle.

IF I HAD TO DO IT OVER AGAIN I WOULD STICK WITH THE OEM BALL BEARINGS!

Here's a pic of the bearings in question.
http://s1074.photobucket.com/user/wh...tml?sort=6&o=5

Yeah, that seems to usually be the case with super low volume retrofit kits. It sounds like it's most likely a much better route to stick with the original style bearings and just put the best grease you can in them and pop off the grease caps occasionally to make sure everything is still alright.

[ChevyBrad]

Originally Posted by abig84

I'm slowly building a 52 3800 myself and couldn't find much for disc swaps that weren't very expensive. I'm kind of going a original route. Basically using 77 3/4ton dana 44 outers. So basically using a dana 44 front axle without the actual center differential. That way all the bearings and brakes are taken care of.

Though I have all the parts I just haven't got to putting It all together yet

Oh nice, that should work just fine. So you just have a straight tube all the way across to each king pin boss?

[abig84]

Yea bought 5 feet of 3 inch 1/2 inch thick pipe and cut and pitched the center section off the old dana44. I'm also using the outer C's from the dana 44 so I'm eliminating the king pins for the ball joints.

In theory it sounds great only issue I foresee is its going to lift or lower the truck depending on if I go spring over or spring under, so I'll deal with that when the time comes I guess.

[whitedog76]

Originally Posted by abig84

Yea bought 5 feet of 3 inch 1/2 inch thick pipe and cut and pitched the center section off the old dana44. I'm also using the outer C's from the dana 44 so I'm eliminating the king pins for the ball joints.

In theory it sounds great only issue I foresee is its going to lift or lower the truck depending on if I go spring over or spring under, so I'll deal with that when the time comes I guess.

If you go spring under, will you clear everything? The bottom of the frame on my 3600 is 18" off the ground, with the wheel centerline being 15". Doesn't leave a lot of room for suspension travel

Going spring over and de-arching the spring will get you more in the ball park, but you'll still probably be lifted.

Steering is another issue. Probably gonna need to do a forward mount steering box.

With the amount of work involved with what you are proposing, you may be better off coming up with your own disc brake setup. My photobucket has some ideas of what I've tried.

[abig84]

I thought the steering on the 52 is the same push/pull set up as you find in the 80s trucks? I'm going with a power steering box and a V8 so I believe you have to relocate the box anyways.

So yeah might have to put the axle under the springs and get some drop springs. Maybe a slight lift might not be that bad. So hopefully it's possible as I already spent a few bucks on this idea

[ChevyBrad]

Sounds interesting. You can definitely get it to work. It just most likely will not be totally plug and play, but that would boring.

[mechanixman]

Hey Chevy Brad!
I have the 16" ford wheels on my truck, and they definitely DO NOT fit. I had to add a spacer to get mine to fit. I can't remember off the top of my head, but I believe they were 1.75" spacers. I wanted a little bit of clearance between the wheel and the caliper. I can take pics tomorrow if you'd like.
That's the main reason I can't use DWCSR's kit. I can't afford to have 2 spacers and still fit everything under the wheel well.
Thanks!

[dwcsr]

You have my kit and 16's don't fit?? We did have ford 16's on them for one customer. Is it a back space issue?

[abig84]

Originally Posted by ChevyBrad

Sounds interesting. You can definitely get it to work. It just most likely will not be totally plug and play, but that would boring.

yeah, ill let you know how it turns out if i ever get to it. i never really did this big of a project before its crazy how time consuming it is. anyways i just inherited a old tractor that has taken my last few weekends from me so might be a while but ill get back to you sometime this year

[mechanixman]

Hey dwcsr, sorry for the confusion!
I built my own conversion parts a little while back. I believe I used the same calipers as your kit does. And when I tried to install my wheels, they hit the caliper. I don't believe it was truly necessary to use more than say a 1/2" space to clear them. When I get home tomorrow, I'll take pictures. Maybe I'm just horrendously wrong.

[dwcsr]

I figured t hat out when I looked at your picture. What rotor did you find that worked.

[mechanixman]

2001-2014 3/4 and 1 ton chevy trucks and vans.
I found the rotor first, then found the corresponding caliper.
Here is the thread I started on that
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...=586788&page=2

[ChevyBrad]

Originally Posted by abig84

yeah, ill let you know how it turns out if i ever get to it. i never really did this big of a project before its crazy how time consuming it is. anyways i just inherited a old tractor that has taken my last few weekends from me so might be a while but ill get back to you sometime this year

Haha. Oh yeah, it takes a while doing things part time. I have a couple years in mine. Good luck, sounds good.