'84 K10 Engine Build Questions

[Captainfab]

Since you found a set of Vortec heads and had to pull them, that means that, that engine is a Vortec 350 with a factory roller cam. If it were me, I'd be going back to get that short block and build that for your K10. As stated before by others, it will be much cheaper to go with a factory roller cam versus a retrofit roller. In fact it is possible you can reuse the factory roller lifters in that engine you pulled the heads from.

[Marshy]

Honestly I thought about that. IDK what the cost would have been on a long block like that minus the intake but don't think it would be very much. I just don't have the funds to refresh the bottom end of a used engine that probably has 150K miles on it. Maybe I'll wait until they have a daily special on blocks and go back and snatch it. There were several other 5.7L vortec engines to choose from. This was the only one with the 062 heads with the exception of maybe one other Tahoe that looked untouched. The rest were in 3500 vans that had 902 heads. I read the 902 heads in vans and 1 ton trucks had an inconel exhaust seats and they flowed less than 062. Based on that I decided to look for 062 heads... Now that I have an engine stand I will wait for a sale on engines and scarf one up later to build a roller motor. I'm going to stay with flat tappet for this engine. This is a fun hobby, IDK why I never got into this sooner.

[TwoFiftyShifter]

The Vortec 350 is stout foundation, however even a junk yard deal on one will require you to change to an electric fuel pump and hydro clutch. Just to keep in.mind.

[Captainfab]

An electric fuel pump, yes, but a hydraulic clutch conversion is not a definite. That will depend on the application.

Originally Posted by TwoFiftyShifter

The Vortec 350 is stout foundation, however even a junk yard deal on one will require you to change to an electric fuel pump and hydro clutch. Just to keep in.mind.

[Marshy]

Now that I have the heads off and want to pull the block, what is the best location to lift it from? I just don't what to break anything...

What does it take to separate the trans from the block, just take the bell housing bolts out as I jack out the block? I've never done this before.

[Marshy]

Vegas last week was a blast, now back to work.

Got the vortec heads at the shop and the block is ready to be pulled. It looks like I just need to take the 4-5 bolts out of the bell housing and the few in the clutch to the flywheel and it will separate. Anything I need to know, any helpful hints?

Once I get it out I'll get the deck height, compression ratio, the installed cam info and check the timing chain.

The guy doing my heads said he has a Speed-Pro CS-1014R cam he would sell me real cheap. CS-1014R Specs:
Duration at 050 inch Lift: 204 int./214 exh
Valve Lift: 0.420 int./0.433 exh
Lobe Separation (degrees): 112

Its deffinetly a cheap cam, only $50 at Summit. Although Im not trying to build anything serious, I think I want something more agressive than this... But, maybe its worth putting in for $20, IDK..?

[Captainfab]

There are 6 bellhousing to block bolts. Sometimes there are 7, but that is rare. There is no need to unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel, to pull the engine.

That cam is a very old school grind. While it does perform okay, there are much better grinds available these days.

[Marshy]

Got word back from my machinist today. The junkyard heads have no indications of cracks so he's proceeding with rebuilding them. I've asked him to lower the top of the guide to allow up to 0.500" lift. While he's doing that I'll have the block out by sunday. He brought up a good point. The engine vin is still on the block so the deck height is factory. Pictures to follow.

[Marshy]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

There are 6 bellhousing to block bolts. Sometimes there are 7, but that is rare. There is no need to unbolt the pressure plate from the flywheel, to pull the engine.

That cam is a very old school grind. While it does perform okay, there are much better grinds available these days.

So I only see 4 bolts in the bell housing at 9, 3, 11 and 1 oclock. Where are the other 2 located? I can't seem to get the thin sheet metal cover off indeed the bell housing. It's hung up around behind the starter. Are the other two bolts behind that cover? I'm ready to jack this thing out, just wanted to check on the other two bolts before jacking...

[Captainfab]

There should be bolts at 8, 9, 11 1, 3 and 4 O'clock. There are no bolts behind the inspection cover aside from the pressure plate bolts. You might try removing the starter to get that cover off.

[Marshy]

Thanks Captin, got the block out last night. Here's some pics.







Here's a closer pic of the dished piston. Ive been considering getting some flat top pistons to replace these because my new heads are 5cc larger than my old ones. Also, if I want to replace the rear main seal on this 74 block I was told I should consider just having the whole rest of the engine cleaned up. Makes me want to seriously consider going with 40 over flat tops... Still undecided though. This engine is dirty though, I know that!

[Marshy]

Any thoughts about the condition of these cylinder walls?













I also managed to pick up this Edelbrock Performer 2116 intake for $100. It was installed but engine never ran. I'm quite happy about that deal.

[Marshy]

Alright, got some measurements to share after pulling the block and getting it on the stand.
Deck Height = 0.048"
Piston dish depth = 0.030"
Approx dish diameter = 3.150"

I'm going to pop these # in a CR calculator later and see what my approximate CR is with 64cc heads. Only thing I dont know is how thick the head gasket typically is... Is 0.020" a good number to use?
I'm strongly considering sending the block to my machinist to have him disassemble and hot tank. The damn thing is a dirty mess and the cylinder bores have some slight surface corrosion from the coolant getting in them. I've also been tossing around the idea of installing some flat top pistons. I will run the CR calculator with a flat top installed and see what I get. Hope everyone had a happy Independence Day.

[Marshy]

I love this site and the advice I've gotten so far but damn this form is quiet. 34 posts in this thread and something like 22 of them are my own but have over 1200 views, WTH?

[Captainfab]

At this point I would seriously consider rebuilding the short block. At least take it to your machinist and have him check the taper in the cylinders and take a peek at the bearings. Then go from there. Whether to go with flat top pistons or dished, will depend on what grade of gas you want to run and what cam you go with.

[Marshy]

I spoke with him last night and the block will be going for a ride to see him. He suggested that I might need to rods because by the time he put time into the existing ones It would be money better spent on new ones. Does that sound right? I don't expect a lot of wear on the journels so I'm not sure what "cleanup" they could need... I thought if the clearances were sat they would be bolt back together.

[Marshy]

Ok, I think I have my choice of cams narrowed down. I can't believe the Luniti cams are so much more expensive than Comp or Sumit cams. Is the performance really that much better from Luniti to justify twice the cost?

Luniti 10120702K
Advertised Duration 262/268, Lift .468/.489

Summit K1103
Advertised Duration 288/298, Lift .444/.466

Comp Cam CL12-239-3
Advertised Duration 262/270, Lift .462/.480

Right now I'm biased towards the comp cam. Is there anything I should consider before committing to one of these cams?

Thanks for your reply Captin.

[Captainfab]

Granted it's been several years since I have had any machine work done, but the cost to recon a set of stock rods and install new rod bolts should not be anywhere near the cost of a set of aftermarket rods.

Originally Posted by Marshy

I spoke with him last night and the block will be going for a ride to see him. He suggested that I might need to rods because by the time he put time into the existing ones It would be money better spent on new ones. Does that sound right? I don't expect a lot of wear on the journels so I'm not sure what "cleanup" they could need... I thought if the clearances were sat they would be bolt back together.

The last time I looked, the lunati cams were just a little more than a Comp cam. The Lunati VooDoo cams are later and better cam tech than the Comp Extreme Energy cams.

I do have experience with that Comp Extreme 4x cam in a 406. That was a very good cam that developed excellent torque. Of course in a 355 it will run with a more noticeable idle and less torque. The Summit cam is a generic old school tech cam.

Originally Posted by Marshy

Ok, I think I have my choice of cams narrowed down. I can't believe the Luniti cams are so much more expensive than Comp or Sumit cams. Is the performance really that much better from Luniti to justify twice the cost?

Luniti 10120702K
Advertised Duration 262/268, Lift .468/.489

Summit K1103
Advertised Duration 288/298, Lift .444/.466

Comp Cam CL12-239-3
Advertised Duration 262/270, Lift .462/.480

Right now I'm biased towards the comp cam. Is there anything I should consider before committing to one of these cams?

Thanks for your reply Captin.

[Marshy]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

Granted it's been several years since I have had any machine work done, but the cost to recon a set of stock rods and install new rod bolts should not be anywhere near the cost of a set of aftermarket rods.



The last time I looked, the lunati cams were just a little more than a Comp cam. The Lunati VooDoo cams are later and better cam tech than the Comp Extreme Energy cams.

I do have experience with that Comp Extreme 4x cam in a 406. That was a very good cam that developed excellent torque. Of course in a 355 it will run with a more noticeable idle and less torque. The Summit cam is a generic old school tech cam.

I see what I did there. The Lunati cam I listed above comes with the timing chain and gears as designated by the "K" at the end of the part number. The "LK" version is just cam and lifters and is the same price as CompCams once I listed. That makes sense now and it makes me happy because I wanted to use Lunati. Still in the air a little is Im going to use 10120701 or 10120702 (these are the old part #'s 601 and 602). Cheers!

[Marshy]

Can anyone tell me if I use a ridge reamer tool if I have to bore the cylinder afterwords or not? I plan on using a 3 stone hone to deglaze the cylinders once I get the pistons out and was wondering if the hone was enough to clean up any marks left behind or not.

[Captainfab]

If the cylinders have much if a ridge, if you can catch it with a finger nail, the block needs to be bored. But to answer your original question, if you are careful with the ridge reamer and not get down to where the top ring is at the top of the stroke, you should be fine.

[Marshy]

This engine had bad valve stem seals an every cylinder had a good amount of carbon deposit. Before I try the ridge reamer tool I'm going to see if I can remove the carbon with a putty knife. It's been soaked with oil for 4 weeks and I just brushed on some fuel oil tonight. A quick check with the putty knife and I think it will peal right off withou the ridge reamer. Thanks Captin.

[GASoline71]

Originally Posted by Marshy

I love this site and the advice I've gotten so far but damn this form is quiet. 34 posts in this thread and something like 22 of them are my own but have over 1200 views, WTH?

'Cuz it's just another 350 build to a lot of cats... to be honest you lost me with the 305 heads on a 350... but I like that you're on track with a decent set of heads now.

Listen to CaptainFab... cat knows his stuff.

Gary

[Marshy]

Originally Posted by GASoline71

'Cuz it's just another 350 build to a lot of cats... to be honest you lost me with the 305 heads on a 350... but I like that you're on track with a decent set of heads now.

Listen to CaptainFab... cat knows his stuff.

Gary

I hear ya, just another 350 build to most of you. Big deal for me as it's my first time and I don't know a lot.

On another note, I have a clear dorection on how in going to proceed. I'm going to pull the rotating assembly and use a 3 stone hone to deglaze the cylinders, then take the block to my machinist and have him measure the bores to make sure it's in spec then hot tank and new freeze plugs and bearings. Then I will assemble the bottom end and on up. Going with the Lunati 60102 cam.

[68post]

Don't hone it unless it measures-up OK. That would just waste your time and wear a set of stones without reason !