'84 K10 Engine Build Questions

[Marshy]

Took a trip to the junk yard today looking for a flywheel. There were only three manual trans Chevy trucks in the whole yard! Two trucks had V6 in them and of those two, one had the trans removed already. I took the pressure plate off and it didn't look like the flywheel I needed so I moved on to the V8 truck. I had to pull the whole engine to get the flywheel off. Luckily everything to the engine was disconnected already. Only bolts I removed were the bell housing bolts and the 2 motor mounts. Much to my surprise, once the engine came out I found a brand new flywheel, friction plate and pressure plate! I mean, this thing didn't have but a couple hundred miles on it. I couldn't believe it! So i took the whole thing. The flywheel surface has 2 spot the size of a quarter that shows any wear. This thing isn't even broken in yet!

[Captainfab]

Yep, you got lucky there. That doesn't happen to me very often.

[Marshy]

Anyone have any tutorials or tips for cleaning up a carb? This will be another first for me. If I take it apart to clean are there gaskets I have to replace or can they be reused?

[Marv D]

Where the he11 did you find that carb??? at the bottom of a lake? Myself I wouldn't use a Edelbrock carb again on any build,, but especially not that one!!! Appears in the pic to have significant corrosion damage to the metal base sealing surface,, and just makes you wonder ...
I say take the top off, and if the insides are not PRISTINE,, toss it back in the lake! (BTW, the Edelbrock rebuild kit is like $75)

[Marshy]

It's either rebuild this or rebuild the qudrajet that I took off the old motor which needs serious help. I've seen it dumping fuel out the ends of the shaft seals and probably needs other stuff because when the truck sat for a while the bowls seems to drain and I would have to crank it a lot...

If I crack it open and its bad I'll probably consider buying a new carb but I'm willing to give this a try. Most of what you see is grunge from sitting, I don't think it was actually use much at all according to the guy I got it from. I bought that and a Torquer II from him and I've already got my money back in just selling the intake...

[DMT]

Originally Posted by Marshy

It's either rebuild this or rebuild the qudrajet that I took off the old motor which needs serious help. I've seen it dumping fuel out the ends of the shaft seals and probably needs other stuff because when the truck sat for a while the bowls seems to drain and I would have to crank it a lot...

If I crack it open and its bad I'll probably consider buying a new carb but I'm willing to give this a try. Most of what you see is grunge from sitting, I don't think it was actually use much at all according to the guy I got it from. I bought that and a Torquer II from him and I've already got my money back in just selling the intake...

The Q-Jet would be a much better carb to use than a crappy Edelbrock carb. The Eddy carb's fuel curve will be rich at idle and cruise and lean at WOT. A properly rebuilt Q-Jet is the next best thing to FI.

This is a couple of reputable Q-Jet builders from a Buick site I attend on occasion;

http://www.v8buick.com/forumdisplay....erformance-LLC

http://www.quadrajetpower.com/home.html

Both are great Q-Jet rebuilders that can even refinish your carb to make it look brand new if you would want that service as well.

There is also Cliff Ruggles that rebuilds Q-Jets for your combo;

http://www.cliffshighperformance.com/

The Q-Jet carb was made for a lot of different vehicles and were application specific so don't waste your $$ on a Summit rebuilt one size fits all Q-Jet. One of the sites above will get that Q-Jet to be a plug and play for your application with just having to adjust the idle speed and idle screws, done. GL

[Marshy]

Awesome, thanks!

I was wondering if anyone has some advice on how to go about setting the lash when you don't have a timing mark on the timing cover? I have a dial indicator I could put on the rocker but not sure that help me any. I have to order a bolt on timing marker as my cover doesn't have one but I don't want to wait for one. What do you suggest? I'd like to set the lash while I have the intake off but don't want to let this hold me up. Should the oil system be primed when setting lash? I set them nearly to zero lash for the time being.

[Marshy]

So I'm setting the valve lash. Got some advice to set number 1 intake as it's exhaust just opens and repeat for all intake then Webster is set when intake closes...

Anyways, I ran into an issue I believe but not sure. A couple of the lifters look collapse. Is it OK to set the lash with these collapsed? Could I take the lifter apart and put some oil in it so it's not collapsed? I just did it to one and it's solid again...

[Marshy]

OK, so my machinist said 1/8-1/4 turn from zero lash is where I should set them. I guess I get to do it all over again. :-/

[Captainfab]

What did you set the valve lash to?

Are those lifters used or new? The spring inside should keep the cup at the top against the keeper unless it is collapsed or broken.

[Marshy]

I put them all at 1/4 turn in from zero. The lifters are used and came with the engine. I went through them all and cleaned them thoroughly. A couple of the same type bleed down. There are two different kinds installed. I didn't take pictures.

I put the oil pan on after resetting the lash and masked the timing cover, heads and lifter galley and gave everything a shot of paint. The block and heads were thin in areas sobi wanted it all to get some more. Tomorrow will be install the intake, dip stick, paint the valve covers and install then paint the plug wire brackets and maybe clen up that Edelbrock cab. I cracked it open and it just has some sediment, nothing serious. The outside the way worse than internal. Pics later.

[Marshy]

[Captainfab]

The 1/4 turn past zero lash should be fine. However I would be concerned with any lifters that look like the one in your pic above. Hopefully someone else will come along and give their opinion but I would consider replacing those.

It looks like that carb should clean up well with a good soaking in carb cleaner. I rebuilt an Edelbrock once using a kit for an AFB since it was less money. It seems like it didn't come with an accelerator pump though.

[Ironangel]

Originally Posted by Marshy

I love this site and the advice I've gotten so far but damn this form is quiet. 34 posts in this thread and something like 22 of them are my own but have over 1200 views, WTH?

Been following and learning right there with you Marshy. Nice score on the clutch and pressure plate! I think you'll be well impressed when you take her out for her maiden run! PS. Have to agree with the Captain on those lifters. The picture clearly shows a piece of debris big enough to foul a lifter and make it stick. I havent read through the whole thread but I was under the impression you were running a hydraulic cam & lifter set up? If so, used lifters on a new hydraulic cam is a big mistake. If thats a roller lifter and you cant afford new ones, then I would painstakingly dismantle each lifter and clean them insuring there are no busted or collapsed springs or crud within. You have to much time and money invested at this point to take short cuts or to get in a hurry. As for the carb, I'm afraid that thing is going to pose a great big wonder as to if it's the carb, timing, or the cam shelling out when you put fire to that motor? Hate to be the negative voice in the dark but I'd hate to see your money and time go to waste... ~Ghostrider~ Heres some valve lash setting tips. http://www.compcams.com/v002/Pages/4...ableValveTrain

[Marshy]

Originally Posted by Ironangel

Been following and learning right there with you Marshy. Nice score on the clutch and pressure plate! I think you'll be well impressed when you take her out for her maiden run! PS. Have to agree with the Captain on those lifters. The picture clearly shows a piece of debris big enough to foul a lifter and make it stick. I havent read through the whole thread but I was under the impression you were running a hydraulic cam & lifter set up? If so, used lifters on a new hydraulic cam is a big mistake. If thats a roller lifter and you cant afford new ones, then I would painstakingly dismantle each lifter and clean them insuring there are no busted or collapsed springs or crud within. You have to much time and money invested at this point to take short cuts or to get in a hurry. As for the carb, I'm afraid that thing is going to pose a great big wonder as to if it's the carb, timing, or the cam shelling out when you put fire to that motor? Hate to be the negative voice in the dark but I'd hate to see your money and time go to waste... ~Ghostrider~ Heres some valve lash setting tips. http://www.compcams.com/v002/Pages/4...ableValveTrain

Thanks for the comments and link. This is a hydraukic roller cam and lifters. I did painstakingly disassembled each lifter and cleaned them, first in fuel oil then with turpentine and reassembled with fresh virgin oil. Each lifter felt great when it had oil in them. A couple of them seemed to leak down with time just as I pictured. The one in the picture doesn't have a fleck a debri its a porosity spot. I know this because I noticed it too and stick my pick in it. I was informed that I could reuse the roller lifters and that reusing hydraulic flat tappets was a big no-no. Regarding the carb, this one might have to do initially. I don't drive the truck in the winter but I do need it to move a few loads of firewood. If I can get it good enough to move firewood i would be happy. I might consider a new carb come tax return time.

[Marshy]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

In my opinion, you can reuse the original roller lifters as long as the rollers roll smoothly and you clean them up real good. Yes you can bolt on any small block water pump. As for the bypass. Since you have this engine apart, what I would do is find the location and drill the bypass hole in the right side head. See the pics below. The head in the 2nd pic is a Vortec head. I would use a head gasket to find the location on the head.

Cap, my block didn't have the bypass hole and neither did the head, I chose to no drill either. I hope it's not a decision I regret later....
Anyways, the reason I'm coming back to this is because I'm cleaning up my old water pump and noticed that the pump has the bypass hole where it mates to the block but, again no hole in the block at the pump mating point.

I tried to get them both in the same pic.
]

So I'm going to put it together the way it is...

What I'm having a little trouble with now is figuring out what goes to ask these threaded holes in the manifold near the thermostat. Anyone help me out? It's a little different than my old manifold...
There's one to the right of the USA tag, then I've right in the g face under the same tag then one to the left of the thermostat hole.

[Marshy]

Electric fuel pump and relay switch reference.
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ump+conversion

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...ump+conversion

[Marshy]

So I forgot to put a dab of RTV in between the two keys for the harmonic balancer. Does it have to come off or can I put some on the end like this?

[Captainfab]

If your block does not have the corresponding casting and hole for the bypass hole in the water pump, I believe you will need to plug that hole in the water pump. Otherwise you will leak coolant from that hole.

On the intake manifold, the hole on the passenger side of the thermostat is for your heater hose connection. The one on the other side is often used for a temp gauge sender or simply plugged. It is better to put the temp gauge sender in the head if your sender will fit that hole. The hole in the front is there for use as a thermostat bypass if needed. I have seen electric fan temp sender's in that location, a bypass hose or simply plugged.

[Marshy]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

If your block does not have the corresponding casting and hole for the bypass hole in the water pump, I believe you will need to plug that hole in the water pump. Otherwise you will leak coolant from that hole.

On the intake manifold, the hole on the passenger side of the thermostat is for your heater hose connection. The one on the other side is often used for a temp gauge sender or simply plugged. It is better to put the temp gauge sender in the head if your sender will fit that hole. The hole in the front is there for use as a thermostat bypass if needed. I have seen electric fan temp sender's in that location, a bypass hose or simply plugged.

The gasket I have has the third hole. Do you think the gasket and sealant is enough to plug it?

Well im about to slide this engine in and started cleaning up the firewall and bell housing. Since I'm putting in a new clutch in I thought it would be a good idea to replace the throwout bearing too. I cant get the bearing off the input shaft. Anyone have a tip? The lever arm won't move far enough to allow the bearing to slide off the shaft. I must be missing something, please help.



Why did GM use so much sealant on the firewall? I want to clean it up and see the paint, this looks like ****, any suggestions?

[Marshy]

I got the bearing off the input shaft. It was late when I was trying last night and never thought to slide the fork back away from the shaft. It slid back then I would pivot it far enough to get it disengaged from the bearing.

[Captainfab]

No the gasket and sealant will not be good enough. The hole needs to be tapped and a pipe plug installed.

That undercoating on the firewall will likely need to be scraped off. Often times a little heat helps.

[Marshy]

It's coming off with a puddy knife and a light hand. The Gunk degreaser is softening it up nicely and a nylon brush and rag is getting the leftover without damaging the paint real bad. I'm going to leave some at the seam but most of this is going to be removed. It's already looking better and ibhavent done much yet.



I'm going to scrub a little more on it then I have to move on. I have some black paint to touch up the inner fenders after I knock the surface rust off then this motor is going in.

[Marshy]

Before:


Now:


I'll finished up the cleaning tonight and shoot some low gloss blank on the inner fenders and call it good. I want to clean the grime off near the heater core and over by the brake MC and giver everything a nice wipe down. A final wash with some simple green will take the oily gunk cleaner off.

[fleetsidelarry]

Marshy, I haven't been following along with this particular thread but I see you put a old style timing cover on. wish now I had done that. you should be able to get a bolt-on timing tab for that cover.