Front 10 Bolt Teardown / Rebuild PICTURES!

[x ReAcT x]

Alright so ive completely torn the truck apart, sent the body to the shop to get welded/repaired/repainted/redone, powdercoated the frame, and now im in the process to rebuild the entire truck from the ground up. First things first: AXLES. Now one of my biggest regrets of this build was not upgrading to a 14 FF in the rear and a Dana 60 in the front, oh well we live and we learn. Anyways if you all like pictures as much as me then this will be a pretty cool thread. My goal is to have at least one picture for every sentence. We will see how that goes. So this is what I started with, the original Corprate GM 10 Bolt. Started sanding it down to paint it with POR15 and then I realized why dont i just completely rebuild the axle before putting it back on the truck. I should have realized that taking a axle with 350,000 rough, muddy, destructive miles on it would have surprises once i got into the bearing and seals. I was right, that was the sad part. The grease on the bearings was a mix of grease, mud and whatever mother nature decided to throw into the concoction. The spindle had been pitted and showed signs of wear and so now it was time to do some seaching. I ended finding some surplus axles at www.colemans.com and decided to spend 395.00 for a new axle rather than buy all the parts for the original and take time to put it all back together.

[Mr. 250r]

Have you thought about converting it to the 30 spline instead of the 28?

Just a quick piece from off road design

28 vs. 30 Spline:
Most stock GM 10 bolt front axles are 28 spline. Some Blazers and Suburbans from 89-91 may have factory 30 spline front ends. The most common way to get a 30 spline front is to swap a 30 spline rear differential in the front housing. We can supply the shafts with 30 splines on the diff end, and cut with the correct pressure angles to match the GM diff. However, the 28 spline axles are enough stronger than the 297 u-joint that they will not break. Retaining the 28 spline diff leaves you with the ability to run common factory axles for spares. The only real advantage to the 30 spline axles is if you run a much stronger ujoint, the 30 spline could have a real strength advantage over the 28 spline.

I think my suburban has a 30 spline in the front and it worked great up to 38s until i was doing something that would've broke something eventually i like the 10 bolts i would go back in a heart beat but hopefully this d60 death wobble stuff pans out

[x ReAcT x]

Originally Posted by Mr. 250r

Have you thought about converting it to the 30 spline instead of the 28?

Just a quick piece from off road design

28 vs. 30 Spline:
Most stock GM 10 bolt front axles are 28 spline. Some Blazers and Suburbans from 89-91 may have factory 30 spline front ends. The most common way to get a 30 spline front is to swap a 30 spline rear differential in the front housing. We can supply the shafts with 30 splines on the diff end, and cut with the correct pressure angles to match the GM diff. However, the 28 spline axles are enough stronger than the 297 u-joint that they will not break. Retaining the 28 spline diff leaves you with the ability to run common factory axles for spares. The only real advantage to the 30 spline axles is if you run a much stronger ujoint, the 30 spline could have a real strength advantage over the 28 spline.

I think my suburban has a 30 spline in the front and it worked great up to 38s until i was doing something that would've broke something eventually i like the 10 bolts i would go back in a heart beat but hopefully this d60 death wobble stuff pans out

I completely agree, but since I already have 28 spline im just going to keep it, the biggest tire this truck will see is 35s. Im sorry to hear about the death wobble though, i never quite understood why those axles do that

[x ReAcT x]

So i swiped my credit card and made the purchase. UPS has definitely got the game on lock, three days later the axle had managed to go through several states and make it down to the house. It was supposed to take a week, but hell im not gonna complain, great job. Just when i thought everything was going well, on the day of delivery, i got a call from UPS and they informed me that the liftgate on the semi had broke, and it would take an additional day to have it delivered. I told them that it was not a problem i had an engine hoist and i would take it off for them, i needed this axle pronto. So they refunded me my liftgate charge and 2 hours later the truck had arrived. This ladies and gentleman is customer service at its best. So i pulled the engine hoist out and got ready for action. The driver was a wopping 54 years old yet was able to man handle this 600 pound payload like it was no problem. One of the coolest guys ive ever met. We had it out in about 5 minutes and he was off. Now i finally got to tear into my new present! Oh the suspense!

[x ReAcT x]

BAM JACKPOT! Band new axle, but wait why is there so much rust? I guess when they said slight surface rust, they meant that pretty much the entire axle had been exposed to the elements. No big deal, it looks like they did manage to spray a rust colored protective coating over the diskbrakes and hub. Looks like the axle came with the warn premium hubs too.

[x ReAcT x]

So after seeing all the rust and decay im starting to regret my purchase. At this point im going to completely tear this axle down and see how the bearing and seals are doing, im praying that everything will be good to go and i can paint it and install it right back on the truck. First things first, need to remove the tie rod link/center link/drag link (ive heard it called a million names) but its the rod that goes across the axle and connects the passenger side knuckle to the driver side knuckle keeping the wheels in sync when cornering. To remove it, there is a ball joint on each side of the rod that needs to be taken off. The ball joint has a castle nut on the top, with a cotter pin which passes through the ball joint bolt to secure it in place. You first must remove the cotter pin by straightening it, and pulling it right out. The best tool to do this would be a long nose plier. (preferably a Channel Lock brand because they are Made in USA)

[x ReAcT x]

The axle shaft u-jionts were horrible im surprised that they havent blown off yet, it seem like the only lubrication that was left had been the muddy water from the last time i went mudding. But then i realized why they had did their job so well, they were spicer U-Jionts. This certainly gained my respect.

[DirtyLarry]

Yes, it does look very clean inside. That was a good score even if you have to regear it.

[obijuan]

for what its worth, you can just undo the large hub snap ring and pull the lockout assy out. no need to undo that phillips screw.

you nentioned you were getting new balljoints, did you mean tie rod ends? why? the axle is new.


i think its a very wise choice on getting a new axle than rebuilding it. id have done the same in your situation.

[x ReAcT x]

Well about 3 months ago I bought new tie rod ends (not ball joints, that was a typo) and I wont be able to return them. They are the Moog Problem Solvers so i figured i would just install them on the axle.

As for the phillips screw, I wanted to see if the spring was in good shape. The springs on my original axle were completely rusted out and i didnt know it but that had froze themselves in the locked position even though the hub stated they were in free. That ruined my axle haha

Yea i figured it would be better to start fresh, the original axle was in less than desireable condition

Cheers

[x ReAcT x]

Next thing we are going to do is remove the spindle nut. This is also fairly easy if you have the right tools. There is a special socket you will need to get these spindle nuts off. At one point I didnt have the socket and im sure most people dont have these sitting around in their garage. So there is a poor mans way of doing it. Grab you 2 screwdrivers and insert them in 2 of the grooves in the nut. Push the screwdriver in your right hand up and the one in your left hand down. Now its a little tricky but it has worked for me in the past when I removed the spindle from my original front axle. But this surplus axle didnt budge after hours and hours of trying the screwdrivers so I went and bought a spindle nut. Its amazing how easy things are when you have the right tools. One nice tug and the spindle nut came right off. Once you get the spindle nut off there will be a uniquely shaped washer with 12 tiny holes drilled into it.

[x ReAcT x]

Once you get the spindle nut off there will be a uniquely shaped washer with 12 tiny holes drilled into it. Grab 2 hook picks and you should be able to slide the washer right off. Behind the washer there will be another spindle nut. Grab your socket and remove that also. The spindle nut in the rear has a tiny point sticking out of it which fits perfectly into one of the 12 holes in the washer we just removed.

[x ReAcT x]

With the spindle nuts removed the entire hub assembly / brake disk should pull right off. Depending on how bad you beat your rig, the hub and brake disk will probably be rusted together and be a pain to seperate. I always keep mine as one unit unless i need to replace the disk (Never). Once you get the hub out the front cone shaped bearing is probably going to fall out on the ground in a pile of dust and dirt and be no good like mine did. The rear cone bearing is kept in place by a seal. Grab you a crowbar or your choice and that seal should pop right out followed by the cone bearing. All that should be left on the axle is your disk brake heat shield with 6 nuts securing it in place

[x ReAcT x]

The disk brake heat shield nuts are easily removed with a breaker bar, extension, and 9/16" socket. After removing all the nuts the heat shield should come right off revealing the spindle.

[x ReAcT x]

Everything looks pretty good on the inside.....for being in a crate, outside for over 20 years.

I was thinking the same thing.

Yes, it does look very clean inside. That was a good score even if you have to regear it.

Yea i suppose so, regearing it was supposed to be a easy swap but i cant figure out how to get the gear carrier out, its like its pressed in there.

[obijuan]

it might be in there real tight. you have the bearing caps off and the shafts out right? lol take two pry bars and stick em in the carrier. stand over the axle and pry up on the carrier. itll come out.

OR you can rotate the gears and stuff a rag in between the ring and pinion gears. then manhandle and rotate the pinion gear and it will push out the carrier.

[x ReAcT x]

Originally Posted by obijuan

it might be in there real tight. you have the bearing caps off and the shafts out right? lol take two pry bars and stick em in the carrier. stand over the axle and pry up on the carrier. itll come out.

OR you can rotate the gears and stuff a rag in between the ring and pinion gears. then manhandle and rotate the pinion gear and it will push out the carrier.

Ball bearing caps! thats what they are called. I kept refering to them as gear carrier straps. But yes they are removed and so are the shafts lol I was in the proccess of uploading the pictures at the time of this post. I appreciate the input though im going to try that tomorrow morning and try and get them out. Thank you.

[x ReAcT x]

HOW TO REMOVE 10 BOLT GEAR CARRIER / REMOVAL OF GEAR CARRIER

So I've removed 1 or 2 gear carriers out of rear axles, they just fall right out once you take the ball bearing caps out. Front axles are a little different regardless of wether they are a GM 10 Bolt or a DANA 44, the gear carriers are pressed in. This being the first time ive ever attempted this I had a few ideas to get them out. First was to take my engine hoist and wrap a chain around the gear carrier and try to pull it right out. Sweet idea right? Definitely not. And it didnt even get the carrier to budge.

[x ReAcT x]

So after that failure and some advise from some board members (thanks obijuan) I decided to take 2 crow bars and pry from both sides to esentially pull it out. I was met again with failure. So i got smart and asked a mechanic. He told me the only way that carrier was coming out was with a spreader. And he was right, it came right out. Pretty simple tool. Once you pull the carrier out there will be a bearing, bearing race and a shim on each side of the carrier. Tag, bag and document which side is which, otherwise upon assembly the gears will not mesh. Oh and look what arrived in the mail, my auburn posi-trac unit for the rear axle.

[x ReAcT x]

Can a moderator move this to the 1973 - 1987 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board. Most people dont use 10 bolts in the 4x4 section. Thanks in advance

[OLDCHEV4X4]

Originally Posted by x ReAcT x

Can a moderator move this to the 1973 - 1987 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board. Most people dont use 10 bolts in the 4x4 section. Thanks in advance

There are hundreds of 10 bolts in the 4x4 section..? I think this is the perfect spot for this thread.

[Mr. 250r]

I would say the 10 bolt and 44 are the most common 4x4 front axles as not everyone can afford the 60s and they're highly underrated for what they can do i ran a stock 10b on 38.5s and ran the truck a little too hard and never had a problem but i was only mudding and hill climbing and some trails where binding was never an issue, now i refuse to sell the axle cause i like it so much if this d60 doesn't straighten out im putting it back in
Posted via Mobile Device

[x ReAcT x]

Sorry guys I didnt realize all that haha Appreciate the info, and ill finish out the thread in this spot.

[ERASER5]

Looking forward to it. When I did my D44 hubs, I could have used a good primer like this. There may be some differences, but by and large, very similar.

[x ReAcT x]

Originally Posted by ERASER5

Looking forward to it. When I did my D44 hubs, I could have used a good primer like this. There may be some differences, but by and large, very similar.

Thanks, i wish i had a primer when i first tore this thing apart took forever to figure it out. Thats funny you mention that cause D44 and 10 bolts are nearly identical except for the knuckles and even then you can get them machined to work. I would rather have a D44 any day though