AD / S10 swap steering shaft connector

[gigamanx]

Always preface my posts with "I did some googling" haha...Maybe that should be my signature.


I'm onto the steering column this weekend. Used a 2.5" exhaust U-bolt to hold it and that fit very nicely. I cut the 3/4" steering shaft to size and installed the borgeson joint. I'm just not happy with the outcome. It seems very loose with a telescoping joint on the S10 side and the steering shaft also slides into the steering column. I feel like one end or the other or both need to be welded so they stop sliding.

Here are a few pics of the current state. You can sort of see with all that sliding, the shaft just sits on the exhaust manifold. Seems like it needs to be propped up or have a bracket to hold it up. Plenty of room in there thankfully.

Should I cut the joint from the S10 end? Should I extend the shaft? Pics would help

Also read the thread from 2015 where someone asked. But there are 2 borgeson joints in that one. Is that the only way to do it?
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=655883





Another thread had this solution, but it doesn't look quite the same as mine.


https://www.killbillet.com/showthrea...by-step)/page2

[dsraven]

I would say the pics with the blue engine are waiting for a failure of the stock joint that is at the uphill end of the shaft, before the new universal joint. can you imagine the heat in that area between the header pipes? no room for an insulating shroud either.
the bottom pic would last longer especially if the headers were swapped out for a pair that dumps forward more and keeps some of the heat away from the joint. room for a heat shroud is better in that scenario as well. by the looks of it.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by dsraven

I would say the pics with the blue engine are waiting for a failure of the stock joint that is at the uphill end of the shaft, before the new universal joint. can you imagine the heat in that area between the header pipes? no room for an insulating shroud either.
the bottom pic would last longer especially if the headers were swapped out for a pair that dumps forward more and keeps some of the heat away from the joint. room for a heat shroud is better in that scenario as well. by the looks of it.

Ha, the blue engine is my one. That's why I mentioned I wasn't happy with the outcome. I didn't think of heat against the rubber of that joint. I guess It's time for some choppy choppy.

[joedoh]

you have too many u joints to run it unsupported. when I use the borgeson telescoping shaft I use the borgeson 1"DD to 1"DD u joint at the column and the borgeson 3/4" DD to 3/4" 30 spline at the steering box with the telescoping shaft the only thing in between. this is basically what you see in the second method you posted (the one that doesnt look like yours)

what it appears you have done is use a length of DD to extend the column, a u joint to another length of DD, the factory u joint to the factory slip shaft, and the factory rag joint at the box. this is pretty complicated and will need a heim joint to support the second DD shaft, usually a bracket is welded to the frame.

or you could just replace all the mess with the borgeson telescoping shaft and a 3/4" DD to 3/4" 30 spline. I would suggest you get rid of the length of DD at the bottom of the column. if it hits your headers without it though you may need to keep it. be certain that if you have a hollow DD that you drill through one side and use the long set bolts to push on the INSIDE of the tube. if its solid DD, I always drill a small recess to let the short set bolt to hold it

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by joedoh

when I use the borgeson telescoping shaft I use the borgeson 1"DD to 1"DD u joint at the column and the borgeson 3/4" DD to 3/4" 30 spline at the steering box with the telescoping shaft the only thing in between. this is basically what you see in the second method you posted (the one that doesnt look like yours)

or you could just replace all the mess with the borgeson telescoping shaft and a 3/4" DD to 3/4" 30 spline. I would suggest you get rid of the length of DD at the bottom of the column. if it hits your headers without it though you may need to keep it.

Ok, I originally went off what I saw in the garage and what was on the S10 sticky thread for parts. I hear what you're saying and it makes more sense now that I removed the dust cover from the lower S10 joint. I see where a 30 spline would go.

So before I burn more money on this, since steering parts are actually kind of pricey for what they are, what length telescoping tube am I looking for? I like simple, so if I can find a way to do that, I will for sure. Any reason you don't like repurposing the S10 telescoping steering tube? Is it just too short?

I guess I now have a spare 3/4 to 3/4 joint and some 3/4 DD haha.

[dsraven]

you maybe wanna throw a short piece of chain or some other "for sure" link on your motor mounts as well. if you seperate a motor mount during a burn out or whatever, you will also jam your steering input shaft because the shaft is captured by the pipes.
try to get the steering with as few u joints as possible and phase the ujoints from one end of the shaft to the other. do you have a straight uninterupted run from the output of the ujoint below the floor over to the box input without hitting anything? if so, that makes it easy for installing the slip shaft, like joedoh says.
just my thoughts though