Rewired 70 C10 heater and running lights on even if ign is not plugged in.

[C10Coloradoguy]

So I checked the purple wire (Marked as Turn Switch Feed on AAW) and VV is correct. I read 0.84 ohms which is probably normal.

When I flip the switch is when everything goes to crap. Now maybe I should mention that I have been testing with the switch in the column and the steering wheel completely off and when running these ohm tests I've taken the switch out of the column and verified that no wires are touching or frayed. But I am testing with the switch outside of the column.

When I move the switch right or left, ALL of the turn signal wires, both right and left, front and back, go to 0 ohms. That certainly doesn't sound right...

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by C10Coloradoguy

So I checked the purple wire (Marked as Turn Switch Feed on AAW) and VV is correct. I read 0.84 ohms which is probably normal.

When I flip the switch is when everything goes to crap. Now maybe I should mention that I have been testing with the switch in the column and the steering wheel completely off and when running these ohm tests I've taken the switch out of the column and verified that no wires are touching or frayed. But I am testing with the switch outside of the column.

When I move the switch right or left, ALL of the turn signal wires, both right and left, front and back, go to 0 ohms. That certainly doesn't sound right...

Check your hazard switch for closed, this would connect all the turn wires together and give you zero ohms between the purple wire and any of the turn signal wires.

[C10Coloradoguy]

My inexperience will probably show here so bear with me...

Here are the results with the new switch and both positions of the HAZARD knob:

A) Hazard knob pulled all the way out - No fuses pop but no signal lights at all when switch is pushed left or right. All other light functions seem to work.
B) Hazard knob pushed in - Hook the negative cable back up and HZRD fuse blows immediately

I feel like this should tell me what or where the problem lies but like I said, this is my first time wiring a vehicle and I'm learning as I go. Help me VV-wan-kenobi, you're my only hope.

[C10Coloradoguy]

Ok VV,

I ran your tests.
"Now check it on the steering column side between purple and ground or what ever color matches the purple wire from the fuse panel.

First with the signal lever in no turn and then in right and left turn.
You shouldn't see zero ohms in either position unless the short is in the wiring in the column. "

Well I did check the purple wire on both sides and I am getting 0 ohms on both sides. But checking the individual right/left wires, they are getting continuity correctly. So shouldn't the purple wire show continuity (0 ohms) since the electrons should be flowing to the respective wires? Confused.

[VetteVet]

................

Originally Posted by C10Coloradoguy

Ok VV,

I ran your tests.
"Now check it on the steering column side between purple and ground or what ever color matches the purple wire from the fuse panel.

First with the signal lever in no turn and then in right and left turn.
You shouldn't see zero ohms in either position unless the short is in the wiring in the column. "

Well you wouldn't unless your switch was out of the column and then you wouldn't have a ground to check to.

Well I did check the purple wire on both sides and I am getting 0 ohms on both sides. Of the connector yes. But checking the individual right/left wires, they are getting continuity correctly. So shouldn't the purple wire show continuity (0 ohms) since the electrons should be flowing to the respective wires? Yes unless the hazard switch is disconnecting the purple wire and the signal wires.You wouldn't have turn signals if all four lights were blinking at the same time. Confused.

[C10Coloradoguy]

I have checked the switch as requested and just so you know, yes the colors all match on my harness so everything you say makes sense. If I don't quote something from your instructions it means that it worked. I did have some variations though. Here are the results:

Red meter lead on purple wire and black lead on dark green with switch in neutral. Supposed to be no ohms. --- I am using the 20k setting on ohms and coming up 0.85 ohms. Not sure if this is close enough to zero or if it is an issue.

Red lead on purple, black lead on yellow with switch in neutral. Supposed to be no reading -- I am getting 0.84 or 0.85 ohms.

Red lead on brown, TS in neutral, hazard out. Touch black lead to the four turn wires. Supposed to be no reading. -- I am getting .04 ohms on each wire.

Just for kicks: Red lead to yellow wire and black lead to the other three wires (DB, LB, DG). This was done bypassing the switch and tested where the harness connects to the TS coupling LB and DB had no reading, but DG shows continuity (0 ohms). I believe this is a problem.

I have traced back the yellow and green wires from the harness back to where they split right and left and I can see no place these wires are touching each other. How else could they show 0 ohms?

Side note: I had printed out some test instruction that I could have sworn were from VV but looking back on this thread it must be another 68 -72 C10 forum post. Here are the two tests I ran and the results were the same:

With the switch disconnected and the battery connected, jump the purple wire and the yellow and light blue (2nd test was purple jumpered to DG and DB) and turn the key on. The left/right marker and indicator lights should blink.
Nope. The Turn signal fuse popped both times I tried this.

Incidentally, all of the tests I ran on the TS switch for left and right turn seem to work according to the multi-meter. I don't think it's the switch. Something more difficult....of course.

[VetteVet]

..................

Originally Posted by C10Coloradoguy

I have checked the switch as requested and just so you know, yes the colors all match on my harness so everything you say makes sense. If I don't quote something from your instructions it means that it worked. I did have some variations though. Here are the results:

Red meter lead on purple wire and black lead on dark green with switch in neutral. Supposed to be no ohms. --- I am using the 20k setting on ohms and coming up 0.85 ohms. Not sure if this is close enough to zero or if it is an issue.

You should be using the lowest scale that you get a reading on. Are you using an analog meter with a needle or a digital meter? You should be seeing enough resistance that the bulb won't light. I would expect no reading. Then when you move the switch lever to right turn you should get continuity or very low ohms.

Red lead on purple, black lead on yellow with switch in neutral. Supposed to be no reading -- I am getting 0.84 or 0.85 ohms.

Same thing here on left turn.

Red lead on brown, TS in neutral, hazard out. Touch black lead to the four turn wires. Supposed to be no reading. -- I am getting .04 ohms on each wire.

Does your hazard switch turn on the lights when pulled or pushed in? If when pulled you should get continuity on all four wires, Low ohms on lowest scale. They should have continuity to each other as well because the switch connects all of them to the brown hazard wire.

Just for kicks: Red lead to yellow wire and black lead to the other three wires (DB, LB, DG). This was done bypassing the switch and tested where the harness connects to the TS coupling LB and DB had no reading, but DG shows continuity (0 ohms). I believe this is a problem.

If both wires Y and DG, were shorted to ground and You checked between them for continuity you would get zero ohms, so yeah this is a problem.

I have traced back the yellow and green wires from the harness back to where they split right and left and I can see no place these wires are touching each other. How else could they show 0 ohms?

see previous.

Did you check the harness from the front and slong the frame rail for a clamp pinching or grounding the two wires?

Side note: I had printed out some test instruction that I could have sworn were from VV but looking back on this thread it must be another 68 -72 C10 forum post. Here are the two tests I ran and the results were the same:

With the switch disconnected and the battery connected, jump the purple wire and the yellow and light blue (2nd test was purple jumpered to DG and DB) and turn the key on. The left/right marker and indicator lights should blink.
Nope. The Turn signal fuse popped both times I tried this.

Incidentally, all of the tests I ran on the TS switch for left and right turn seem to work according to the multi-meter. I don't think it's the switch. Something more difficult....of course.

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by C10Coloradoguy

My inexperience will probably show here so bear with me...

Here are the results with the new switch and both positions of the HAZARD knob:

A) Hazard knob pulled all the way out - No fuses pop but no signal lights at all when switch is pushed left or right. All other light functions seem to work.
B) Hazard knob pushed in - Hook the negative cable back up and HZRD fuse blows immediately

I feel like this should tell me what or where the problem lies but like I said, this is my first time wiring a vehicle and I'm learning as I go. Help me VV-wan-kenobi, you're my only hope.

Ok lets check out the new switch just to be sure. I take it that the hazard switch has to be pushed in to flash all the lights and out for the normal turn signals.

If you have the TS switch back in or still out doesn't matter as long as you know what wires are for which lights. I think you know the purple wire is the power wire for the normal turn signals and the dash indicator lights.

I'm going to use the normal colors for this test so I hope your column wires match.

Start out by removing the battery negative cable and if you have the column harness disconnected you can leave it on.

Here are the colors and what they do. Starting on one end and going across.

Black--------Horn

light blue---------left front--left indicator

dark blue--------right front--right indicator

brown----hazard power from the fuse panel hazard flasher

purple----- from fuse panel flasher for normal turn lights

yellow--------left rear turn/stop light

dark green -------right rear turn/stop light

white-----L and R rear brake lights

Here's a pic and it looks like the right colors are in the left hand. If they go to the TS switch it's all good if yours are not the same then you'll have to match them up.

Anyways here's how to test.

with the red meter lead on the white wire and the black lead touching the yellow then dark green and the switch lever in neutral-----zero ohms
these are the brake lights.

Now--put the lever in right turn and test the dark green wire---No ohms
Now --put the lever in left turn and test the yellow wire-- no ohms

if you get those readings your brake circuit is good.

Now--place the red meter lead on the purple wire and the black lead on the dark green wire with the lever in neutral--- no ohms

Now place the lever in right turn---- zero ohms--- right turn is good.

Now with the red led on purple wire, place the black lead on the yellow wire.
with the lever in neutral ---- no reading

Now place the lever in left turn ---zero ohms --left turn is good.

Now with the red lead still on purple, place the black lead on the light blue wire ( second from the end next to the black wire) with the lever in neutral--
no reading. Now place the lever in left turn-- zero ohms= the left front is good.

Now with the red lead still on purple place the black lead on the dark blue wire with the lever in neutral--no reading--lever in right turn--zero ohms. the front signals are good. Remember this is just the TS switch it doesn't mean the signal lights are good.

Now place the read lead on the brown wire (hazard) and with the TS lever in neutral and the hazard switch out, touch the black lead on the four turn wires
Yellow, dark green, Light blue, and dark blue.---no reading.

Just for kicks touch the red meter lead to the yellow wire and the black meter lead to the other three wires, Lb DB and dark green just to see if they are shorted to each other in the TS switch.

OK now we check the TS switch with the Hazard switch pushed in. The lever should be in neutral. Some of these switches are set up to flash all four lights and some of them require the lever to be place in L or R turn for the hazards to all flash. I don't remember if ours does but all four wires should read zero ohms in one position or the other.

So check for zero ohms between the brown wire and the four signal wires
Y DG LB and DB

If you are not getting these readings then you TS switch is bad.

From what you posted, with the hazard switch pulled out (off) the turn signals don't work, but if you are blowing fuses then you might not know.

I have a sneaking suspicion that your shorting blown fuse problem are a result of some thing shorted in the dash cluster indicator lights. That is why I asked you to disconnect the dash plug in my earlier post.

If you followed my testing in the other post on the turn signal wires you should have found the wire with the least ohms to ground which would indicate a short to ground and blown fuses.

GOOD LUCK.