51 Chev on a S10 frame, named Dale

[8man]

Looking good sitting in there.

[Ol Blue K20]

I like the paint on the engine. Very nice

[Tempest67]

Thanks Guys,

The color is Alpine Green (Detroit Diesel)

I think it looks 'retro'

[Ol Blue K20]

Originally Posted by Tempest67

Thanks Guys,

The color is Alpine Green (Detroit Diesel)

I think it looks 'retro'

I agree, a nice retro look

[Tempest67]

Spent some time working on the Passenger door Bear Claw latch.

I never liked how the rod from the latch to the inside handle did not follow the indent in the inner panel, so here is what I did.

first, attach the inside handle the other way (rotate it 180)....yes, you only attach it with 2 of the 3 bolts, but it is not moving

then position the rod in the latch, through the hole you made, and see how it lines up

mark the rod with a pie shaped cut, make the cut, bend it to fit the new location of the attaching point, weld it up, paint it, and attach to handle.


CAUTION with the Altman Latches - when I did the driver's door (first time) the square rod from the exterior door handle was a really tight fit into the square hole in the Altman latch, so I sanded off the rusty square rod so it would fit more easily..DO NOT DO THIS. this is what keeps the door handle level on the outside, so now I have a door handle that has a slight droop. ....piss me off !!!!

I now have new rubbers in the vent windows, new felt window slides, and new door and latch assemblies. the window moves but is tight...... I am hoping the new felts will 'work in'.

........ time to assemble the front clip

[8man]

Thanks Tempest, I'll be using that idea! I like it.

[joedoh]

looks good! did you have any trouble with the center strip? I can never get the factory screws back in

[joedoh]

thats a neat trick!

that bottom one is always the one I cant get with regular screws, the angle on the dash scratches the paint with the screwdriver. I think the company that makes those rubber tipped trigger handle project clamps should make one big enough to go from the front of the windshield bar to the back of the cab. that way you and I could do the job solo, just tighten the clamp and put the screws in.

what I have started doing is cutting the heads off long screws and threading them into the bar, then install the bar by sticking them through the rubber/post and using nuts on the inside. then I cut them short and use acorn nuts on top of the hex nuts.

[Tempest67]

acorn nuts are a great idea. (I think you have posted that before) I plan to use one of those upper screw holes to attach an interior mirror. (details not figured out yet)

The best tip I can pass along (from doing this only once) is when you have the entire piece (rubber seal and 2 pieces of glass) resting on the cowl ready to be installed, is to get 2 screw drivers and put them through the rubber center holes into the holes of the metal center divider, and leave them there while you pull the rope on the inside. (please keep mind out of gutter)

This will ensure that you have centered the windshields.


I did pry up the outer lip of the seal and applied sealant between the rubber and steel, but do you add any sealant between the glass and rubber?......not sure if that is necessary?

what a difference new glass makes...... seems like the truck just went from an abandoned old field truck to something that may actually be street legal.

[Tempest67]

completed fuel line to carb, and attached Power steering pump and lines.......

step by step......... progress is being made

[8man]

Progress!!! Keep at it.

[gigamanx]

I was a fan of the painless wiring 70922 kit. Gives you a bunch of fabric sleeves to fit various wiring bundles like you have here. I used almost the whole kit for a 22 fuse universal harness.

[Tempest67]

I am using the 14 circuit set from Kwikwire. - no fabric sleeves

It seems fairly straight forward, but I haven't completed the 'motor group' yet.

I will be holding my breath when I connect the battery for the first time.

[Jason 56]

Coming along nice. Keep up the good work!

[Ol Blue K20]

Looks clean.

[Desert1957]

nice detail work.

[Tempest67]

more progress,

I fabbed these up to solve a problem that has been bugging me for a while.

I wanted something that would not hold moisture, would be strong enough to support some weight, and most important, reduce interior noise. (and they are removable if needed, but I dont see any need to remove them)

2 pieces of steel, with a styrofoam piece attached to it with contact cement, and plastic door edge guard on the 1 edge, with 3 holes to secure to the floor.

I oiled/greased the cavity before I installed them, and I think they will help.

[Tempest67]

Now, the Rad.

I purchased the rad from Summit, but for some reason, the lower rad outlet was angled in, toward the middle of the rad, so I found a guy that welds aluminium and he put on a straight outlet.

I sat the rad on 2 large round rubber supports, but needed to attach the top. So I made 3 brackets and attached them to the 3 pieces of split vacuum hose at the top of the rad. seems very secure.

Also, anyone using a SBC, these rad hoses worked well. The upper is a perfect fit ,for a 55 Chev with a V8 - Gates 20416 and the lower is the upper rad hose for a 1999 - 2003 F250 with the 7.3 diesel - Gates 22433. There is a slight 'fold' in the lower, but I think it will be ok

Also attached the 16 in SPAL fan and wired it up.

.........getting closer everyday

[Tempest67]

also installed the Lokar throttle cable and bracket.

[gigamanx]

Originally Posted by Tempest67

Now, the Rad.

I purchased the rad from Summit, but for some reason, the lower rad outlet was angled in, toward the middle of the rad, so I found a guy that welds aluminium and he put on a straight outlet.

I sat the rad on 2 large round rubber supports, but needed to attach the top. So I made 3 brackets and attached them to the 3 pieces of split vacuum hose at the top of the rad. seems very secure.

Also, anyone using a SBC, these rad hoses worked well. The upper is a perfect fit ,for a 55 Chev with a V8 - Gates 20416 and the lower is the upper rad hose for a 1999 - 2003 F250 with the 7.3 diesel - Gates 22433. There is a slight 'fold' in the lower, but I think it will be ok

Also attached the 16 in SPAL fan and wired it up.

.........getting closer everyday

Ran into this exact problem myself. Found an outfit that cut and brazed the lower hose so it was slightly angled outward towards the wheel well. Fit like a champ.

nice progress! I bet you're itching to start it up now that there are some fluids in there.

[Ol Blue K20]

Congratulations on getting it running.......nice job!!

[28TudorAZ]

Looking great!!!! Would love to see more pictures of the full truck.

[Tempest67]

Glad to hear that these don't have overheating issues. I just saw a potential problem and figured it would be easier to solve it now, than later.

TudorAZ, I am hoping for my first ride this weekend, I will try to take some pics of it outside...........

[doowoppwer]

in for the rest of this project...roger

[twinshadows]

Hey Tempest67 . .

So . .. . I drive a 69 Nova - 250ci / 6 , and March 2018 installed a Borg Warner
T 5 trans (behind my six) . . . . but still using my stock 69 mech. speedo.
My T 5 was from a 93 GMC S-15 (2.8 V6 motor) . . . and had the electric speedo
- - VSS sensor . So, I "ponied - up" and bought the "SpeedBox from Speed Hut" .
Converts u'r mech speedo to work with u'r VSS drive output . . . . . . kinda .

# 1 - - Speed Box unit ;


# 2 - - only using my GPS antenna , VSS sensor on the trans , is not
even hooked - up . Checked reading against a 'smart phone - GPS app' . . . reads
very close (maybe 150 / 175 feet off) .
magnetic GPS antenna 'stuck on the cowl screen' .


# 3 - -


cheaper than new gauges . . . . . . works for me (really works pretty good ) .
just FYI . . . . "Speed Hut.com" .

. . . . . and, I like u'r truck . . . . . jim