The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network







Register or Log In To remove these advertisements.

Go Back   The 1947 - Present Chevrolet & GMC Truck Message Board Network > 47 - Current classic GM Trucks > The 1967 - 1972 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Message Board > 67-72 Chevrolet & GMC Pickups Projects and Builds

Web 67-72chevytrucks.com


Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 03-18-2011, 12:13 PM   #1
gringoloco
A guy with a truck
 
gringoloco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Germany, for now
Posts: 5,920
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by theCheyenneShop View Post
Wood floor looks GREAT!

Are you going to stain it?
I have a little bit different than the 'normal' resto plans for this one. We'll see what happens, as I'm prone to changing my mind frequently
Quote:
Originally Posted by VA72C10 View Post
very nice! Love the look of a wood bed!!!
Thanks, me too!
Quote:
Originally Posted by 67cheby View Post
nice work
Thanks!
Quote:
Originally Posted by lolife99 View Post
Any plans to space the wood up off the metal floor?
I wondered about water/moisture being trapped between the two.
Yeah, I have pondered using some sort of cross strips, but don't want to eat up all of my raised floor space. I can probably spare a 1/4 inch without missing it though. If I decide to bolt the wood to the steel floor, it will get painted and probably rubberized undercoating.
Posted via Mobile Device
__________________
-Chris

Instagram _elgringoloco_

'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
'72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD)
'05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD)
‘07 Yukon Denali (daily)

Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy
gringoloco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2011, 01:40 PM   #2
SCOTI
Registered User
 
SCOTI's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2001
Location: DALLAS,TX
Posts: 21,934
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by gringoloco View Post
I have a little bit different than the 'normal' resto plans for this one. We'll see what happens, as I'm prone to changing my mind frequently
Paging P.Tina . . ..... paging P.Tina.....
Is there a P.Tina in the house?
__________________
67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.

Last edited by SCOTI; 03-18-2011 at 01:40 PM.
SCOTI is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-18-2011, 07:15 PM   #3
gringoloco
A guy with a truck
 
gringoloco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Germany, for now
Posts: 5,920
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI View Post
Paging P.Tina . . ..... paging P.Tina.....
Is there a P.Tina in the house?
Never met her, but I do like the idea of not having to worry about every little scratch, chip, or door ding
Posted via Mobile Device

Edit: I also hear she's cheap, low-maintenance, and doesn't mind hanging out in the Wal-Mart parking lot...
__________________
-Chris

Instagram _elgringoloco_

'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
'72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD)
'05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD)
‘07 Yukon Denali (daily)

Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy

Last edited by gringoloco; 03-30-2011 at 12:34 AM.
gringoloco is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 03-30-2011, 12:25 AM   #4
gringoloco
A guy with a truck
 
gringoloco's Avatar
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Location: Germany, for now
Posts: 5,920
Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Been playing with the truck a little bit more the last couple of days. I spent way more time than I care to share getting the fan shroud aligned- VERY little clearance around the clutch fan on my serp setup- but now it's done and installed for the last time Also finished up the underhood wiring, spent a ton of time chasing down a new lower radiator hose (do you guys' LAPSs suck as bad as mine do? <--rhetorical question), and finished up the last few things on the front suspension which included welding up a wallowed-out upper shock mount hole and finished installing my 1.25" sway bar and poly bushings (more leftovers from the Blazer), which makes the front suspension officially DONE except getting it aligned Unfortunately, none of this is really picture worthy...

Buuuut, you can't have an update without pics, so I'll stick a few up of my 'new' brake booster and bracket assembly with the new master cylinder installed, which also shows the rad and shroud installed (I know, nothing to look at, but I am happy that stinking shroud is installed ). I went with a '68 3/4 ton booster to reap the benefits of dual diaphragm and still be able to use the '71-'72 1/2 ton disc/drum master cylinder. Most guys when upgrading will use the '71-'72 3/4 ton booster, which will only accept the C20 master cylinder. I also prefer the look of the earlier unit's shorter, straighter bracket. I don't like the 'lean' the later trucks' master cylinders have.

Almost forgot, since I snapped the end off of one of my tranny cooler lines while removing the radiator, and the other had a compression fitting already patching it, plus the fact that they were a mangled, PO hand bent mess, I decided to bend up a new set. Used a couple of 6' lengths of 5/16" pre-flared steel line from Advance- like $3 each. What a pain, but MUCH cleaner, better looking, and safer than before. Also, in the process of installing the new brake booster assembly, I dropped the steering column and figured while it was out, I might as well 'shorten' it 3" (Thanks for the write-up, Putter) to give me some elbow room (I'm 6'6")...

All in all, the progress feels good, but I think I should have accomplished more given the time spent. Seemed like everything was fighting me the whole way, one problem after another, but that's how it goes sometimes- hopefully the next round will go a little more smoothly and be more pic-worthy
Attached Images
    
__________________
-Chris

Instagram _elgringoloco_

'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
'72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD)
'05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD)
‘07 Yukon Denali (daily)

Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy
gringoloco is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off

Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 04:36 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Copyright 1997-2022 67-72chevytrucks.com