Alternator wiring

[gottattooz]

I'm using the serpentine setup from a 1994 GMC S15 Jimmy 4.3l for my 68 C10. I've searched, but haven't found the answer for how to wire the alternator into the factory harness, bypassing the external regulator. I"ve seen one-wire setups and 3-wire setups. Mine has a 4 pin plug with the 2 middle pins being used. The 2 wires are brown and pink w/ black stripe. I suck at wiring, and I"ve looked everywhere.

-JOsh

[55metalmonkey]

not sure if this is the setup you are looking for
if not what alt are you using? pics of external reg and new alt might help if this diagram isn't going to work for you

[SkeksisNV]

Originally Posted by 55metalmonkey

not sure if this is the setup you are looking for
if not what alt are you using? pics of external reg and new alt might help if this diagram isn't going to work for you

This setup is exactly what I did for my conversion. Someone on here has a great guide for doing so. I made the jumper and bought a pig tail for the alternator and spliced it all together and it works great.

[55metalmonkey]

Hope it works for gottattooz
I guess in hind site I should have rotated the picture so you could read it better

[HEI451]

That conversion is to a 12SI alternator, and although it works, there are a lot easier ways to do the same thing on them.

From what you say, that your 1994 alternator has a 4 wire connector, should be with extremely small connectors, male down the hole in the alternator, those are a CS series alternator, and completely different from the SI series your truck had stock and the single/3 wire ones.

I don't know where to send you to, to get the right wire up, but the CS series has a number of ways to wire it, and, like the ones on my 1986 and 1988 Safari/Astro vans, can be made single wire from the inside.

Might take a trip to google, and search for Delco-Remy CS series alternator wire up diagrams, and see what you come up with.

[fixit-p]

HEI451 is correct the 94 would be a CS series of alt the hook up is simple. There are a few different flavors of the CS. Look at the connector on the alt it will either be labeled PLFS or PLIS. Below is a diagram for both.
For either style you need to connect switched ignition to the L terminal with a resistance of any value between 35 ohm-5 watts and 500 ohm-1/2 watt. If your connector has the I terminal it can be used (I terminal) without the resistor. The S terminal can be used for remote sensing but not required for it to work.

[IMG][/IMG]

[VetteVet]

Here is my favorite how to on the CS conversion.

http://temp.corvetteforum.net/c3/zma...ternator01.htm

Here is the easy way to convert from the external regulator to either the SI or the CS series. It is showing how to convert to the SI but all you need to do is substitute the no. 1` terminal in the diagram to the L terminal on the CS alternator and substitute the no.2 terminal on the SI diagram to the S terminal on the CS alternator. The large red wire from the harness goes to the back of the alternator. You will still have to install the resistor in the L wire because the light or the resistance wire in the factory system does not provide enough resistance to protect the alternator diodes.



If you still have the original alternator, the terminals are not labeled 1 and 2. Here is the back of the original external regulated alternator.

[gottattooz]

Thanks for the replies, guys. I"ll look at it again when it's light out and let you know what I find.

-Josh

[HEI451]

The SI alternator pictured should not be an internally regulated model, it is an early design.

With the true internally regulated SI alternators, the two wire plug connectors DO NOT face to the rear of the alternator, they face out the side of the rear case, and THEY ARE NUMBERED 1 AND 2.

To convert a 3 wire internally regulated 12SI alternator to single wire, FROM THE OUTSIDE WITH NO SPECIAL PARTS, simp0ly make a jumper wire, 14 gauge, between the large BATT lug on the back, to the NUMBER 2 terminal on the side, done, works fine.

IF you still run a charge light, then, find the charge light wire on the old remote regulated alternator regulator, should be wire number 4, and connect it directly to the NUMBER 1 terminal on the alternator, and it should work as stock, no special adapter, NO special farm and industrial impleme3nt regulator inside the alternator, simple, clean and done.

If anyone wants pictures of how to do this, and the internally regulated alternator numbers on it, send me a real world e/mail and ask for the SI alternator info. It is free, and absolutely no strings. Please use this e/mail address to request them: info@davessmallbodyheis.com I'll be happy to send them to you.

Now, as far as the CS series alternators go, in my opinion, from having to resurrect a lot of them from being totally dead and junk, if it were me, I'd find someone you really don't like, and GIVE them that CS thing, as a present, and put a nice late 1980's Citation, Pontiac 2000/6000 air conditioned 94 ampere 12SI alternator on it, and don't look back.

On every vehicle I have had that came with a CS series alternator, and after raising ALL OF THEM from the dead, numerous times, I finally bit the bullet, and converted all of them to that 94 amp SI alternator, and haven't had any problems/failure since.

[gottattooz]

I looked at my 4-pin plug and it says "ABCD" and not PLIS or PLFS. I know from past wiring experience that the pink wire with the black stripe is Ignition power, and I think the brown wire feeds the dash gauge.

-Josh

[fixit-p]

Not on the plug look at the alternator.

[gottattooz]

Oh, ok. I"ll have to take it off the truck to check. It points down, right over the valve cover, and I can't read it while it's mounted. That'll have to wait until it's light out again. Thanks.

-Josh

[gottattooz]

OK, I tok the alternator off and it says PLIS, but under the "I", it has a "F". So, what the heck does that mean?

PLIS
...F.

-Josh

[fixit-p]

Since it has both an F and an I terminal just use the L terminal as shown in the diagram on the left of the two that I posted. Just be sure to use a resistor as stated earlier.

For either style you need to connect switched ignition to the L terminal with a resistance of any value between 35 ohm-5 watts and 500 ohm-1/2 watt. If your connector has the I terminal it can be used (I terminal) without the resistor. The S terminal can be used for remote sensing but not required for it to work.

I've never seen a regulator with both a F and I terminal because the F terminal goes to the field wingdings (could be used for an indicator) and the I terminal simply connects to the L terminal internally through a resistor (that's why the I terminal can be safely used w/o a resistor).

[stellar]

Originally Posted by fixit-p

Since it has both an F and an I terminal just use the L terminal as shown in the diagram on the left of the two that I posted. Just be sure to use a resistor as stated earlier.



I've never seen a regulator with both a F and I terminal because the F terminal goes to the field wingdings (could be used for an indicator) and the I terminal simply connects to the L terminal internally through a resistor (that's why the I terminal can be safely used w/o a resistor).

It will not have (both) I and F. It will be either I or F. Different functions of the regulators. I will be Ign fed on off. F will be computer monitor of alt when running. Usually the I type will have a bright indicator lite and the F type will have a dim lite with key on engine off, when used as a conversion for the earlier 10DN and 10SI when indicator lite is connected to the L reg pin. This will not be the case when used in the intended application. As you stated just using the L pin should work fine. Leave the (I F) pin unconnected.