S10 Swap how to

[frankist]

Got my cab situated, level rockers/cab floor seems perfect. Thanks for the help guys.

For those using a 5.3 vortec in your build, any suggestions for headers? I'm currently leaning towards stock f body headers that don't have either egr or air injection ports. Motor sits perfectly in this chassis without much modification to the floor of the cab. Would like to know before I start buying multiple headers. ��thanks guys

[CoreyH]

Originally Posted by frankist

Got my cab situated, level rockers/cab floor seems perfect. Thanks for the help guys.

For those using a 5.3 vortec in your build, any suggestions for headers? I'm currently leaning towards stock f body headers that don't have either egr or air injection ports. Motor sits perfectly in this chassis without much modification to the floor of the cab. Would like to know before I start buying multiple headers. ��thanks guys

They make a s-10 v8 conversion header. They sell them on ebay, believe that's even what they're called.

[skymangs]

Originally Posted by frankist

Got my cab situated, level rockers/cab floor seems perfect. Thanks for the help guys.

For those using a 5.3 vortec in your build, any suggestions for headers? I'm currently leaning towards stock f body headers that don't have either egr or air injection ports. Motor sits perfectly in this chassis much modification to the floor of the cab. Would like to know before I start buying multiple headers. ��thanks guys

a stock f body manifold will clear, if you want to go the header route, I use Hooker cast. They really hug the block. And they only cost about $300

[skymangs]

CoreyH; I would think twice about using that 700R4, in order to realize the benefits of that 5.3, you will need a 4L60E trans.

Thank you Clay, that is why I made this thread. For the DIY guys. If you want to buy a kit, then by all means by a kit. But, don't come to me when it looks like crap. Wanting me to tell you how to fix it.

This thread is for serious builders, who want to build their trucks the right way the 1st time.

[HUSSEY]

Originally Posted by skymangs

CoreyH; I would think twice about using that 700R4, in order to realize the benefits of that 5.3, you will need a 4L60E trans.

Personally, I don't think either transmission provides a benefit for the 5.3 unless you consider the ECM and it's ability to control the transmission.

If you're using the ECM from the 5.3 then yes I would agree that a 4L60E would be easier to get up and running, no need to hook up a T-V cable.

But, if you're going to a throttle body injection like the Holley Sniper or FI -Tech or with a carburetor then you could go with a 700R4, otherwise you will need a standalone transmission controller which run + $500. But, if you like the idea of being able to change shift points via your laptop then a 4L60E would be the way to go.

With the 700R4 you will need to hook up the T-V cable to the throttle body correctly and adjust it correctly, failing to do so will burn up your transmission.

So, in the end, I think it's really the builder that needs to weigh thier options to determine what best fits their needs, wants, and application.

[Atommik]

I've got a 1951 Chev on a 1991 s10 frame with a 1968 327 sbc. I'm going to replace the factory steering "rag joint" with a smaller outside diameter universal joint because of clearance issues with my power steering pump. The info I could find says the steering gear end is a 3/4 inch shaft with 30 splines. That's what I ordered from Speedway. Sound correct? I haven't had a chance to match it up yet...