How To Restore Original Paint?

[SpicedIcePirate]

I have an original Hugger Orange 1972 C10, and I was wanting to know if anyone had ideas on how to bring life back to my paint. Truck has nice patina that I'd like to keep, but I'd also like for the paint to shine again.

[davepl]

If its heavily oxidized and you don't want to mechanically buff it out, I used to use a product from Turtle Wax called "Color Back".

It works chemically. You need a lot of rags to carry away the old oxidized stuff, and you MUST then put a coat of wax on it, but it worked great in the 80s, presuming they haven't changed the formula. It's still available though:

https://www.turtlewax.com/shop/produ...back-16-fl-oz-

[hewittca]

Originally Posted by davepl

If its heavily oxidized and you don't want to mechanically buff it out, I used to use a product from Turtle Wax called "Color Back".

It works chemically. You need a lot of rags to carry away the old oxidized stuff, and you MUST then put a coat of wax on it, but it worked great in the 80s, presuming they haven't changed the formula. It's still available though:

https://www.turtlewax.com/shop/produ...back-16-fl-oz-

That's interesting stuff davepl. I've never seen it before but I'm sure the patina craze is a main factor in them "bringing it back".

The most commonly used approach is the CLR/scotchbrite method, followed by your personal preference of refinishing techniques. Someone just asked this question actually, and I detailed a response to it. That thread can be found here. I also provided further details on the process I chose in my build thread. The specific post can be found here.

[SpicedIcePirate]

Originally Posted by davepl

If its heavily oxidized and you don't want to mechanically buff it out, I used to use a product from Turtle Wax called "Color Back".

It works chemically. You need a lot of rags to carry away the old oxidized stuff, and you MUST then put a coat of wax on it, but it worked great in the 80s, presuming they haven't changed the formula. It's still available though:

https://www.turtlewax.com/shop/produ...back-16-fl-oz-

Good thinking, but I'm trying to avoid a wax. At least until I can get some kind of clear coat on my truck, as I have to repaint and age the tailgate and one bedside because they had been replaced at some point.

[SpicedIcePirate]

Originally Posted by hewittca

That's interesting stuff davepl. I've never seen it before but I'm sure the patina craze is a main factor in them "bringing it back".

The most commonly used approach is the CLR/scotchbrite method, followed by your personal preference of refinishing techniques. Someone just asked this question actually, and I detailed a response to it. That thread can be found here. I also provided further details on the process I chose in my build thread. The specific post can be found here.

Patina craze, and it saves thousands over getting a good paint job. So I'd rather put money into the mechanical and comfort aspects of the truck so it'll be a better daily driver. Granted, until recently I had been using it as my daily.

[hewittca]

Originally Posted by SpicedIcePirate

Patina craze, and it saves thousands over getting a good paint job. So I'd rather put money into the mechanical and comfort aspects of the truck so it'll be a better daily driver. Granted, until recently I had been using it as my daily.

Oh I totally agree, plus I just like the look of faded original paint on an old truck!

[davepl]

Originally Posted by SpicedIcePirate

Good thinking, but I'm trying to avoid a wax.

I'd also like for the paint to shine again

I don't think you can have it both ways.

[LongBox]

I want to put in a plug for mechanical buffing, which made a world of difference on the original paint on my 69. I used a Porter Cable random-orbit polisher (forget the model number), and Adams paint correcting buffing compound. Finished up with Adams sealant. Huge difference! And no, I have no financial or business connection to Adams.

[DeadheadNM]

Here's a before/after pic of the original paint on my k1500 - believe a glazing compound was part of the milieu after buffing.

[ElKotze]

I personally prefer wet sanding with 1500 and 2000 grit, then cutting compound followed by a machine polish.

[rockyrivermark]

Originally Posted by davepl

I don't think you can have it both ways.

That's what I was thinking too
Posted via Mobile Device

[Jason Banks]

Originally Posted by ElKotze

I personally prefer wet sanding with 1500 and 2000 grit, then cutting compound followed by a machine polish.

When you follow up that 2000 or 1500 grit with a 3000 grit it almost shines and makes buffing super easy.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005RNGL9O

[Jason Banks]

I have read that the product to use is Meguiar's M7 Mirror Glaze Show Car Glaze https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0002UQAM0/

Search online for "Meguiars m7 paint restoration" it looks to work amazing.

Oh yah...I have a nice Porter Cable orbital buffer, but for work like this I have the cheapest harbor freight rotary buffer and have had great results.

Edit: I found one of the articles I was thinking of - https://www.autogeekonline.net/forum...ge-paints.html

[1972RedNeck]

http://colorbackpaintrenewer.com/productinfo.html

Used this on a combine once, worked well, but sold it after a couple years so I don't know how it held up.

[YE9Longhorn30]

Just an idea. . But I used Meguiar's Ultimate Compound automotive finish restorer on my c30 longbed when I bought it about 7 years ago. Granted it is white. It is in storage quite a bit of the time so not much exposure to the sun, but it has held up very well. If I remember correctly my truck took two bottles of it and I bet it was 16 microfiber rags to wipe up all the oxidation residue after I would slowly go around the truck with my Klutch polisher (using foam pads at medium speed) . Obviously no clear coat to burn through. I just like to take my time and get to know the truck At around $9 a bottle, some rags, and if you already have an electric or air polisher . . .it's not much of an investment or just try a spot that's not obvious and go from there. I wish I would have taken pictures before and after :/ you could have made chalk for using in the classroom with all the oxidation on my truck lol

[garyd1961]

After I put my new motor in I noticed the paint on the fenders would bead water where I got oil on them. Even after several weeks and me trying my best to wash the oil off the fenders still beaded water. So I just oiled the whole truck and let it set a couple days. I didn't want to ride around on a greasy truck so I applied a couple coats of Johnson Paste Wax over the oil. Johnson Wax doesn't leave the white residue in the cracks like car wax.
It doesn't shine like a polished and buffed job but it brought the color out and still beads water like new paint after about six months.

[Ken B]

It would help if we could see a picture of your truck so we know what you are starting with... Here is a picture of my Hugger Orange Longhorn with original paint the day I brought it home. The paint wasn't too bad on my truck because it was never driven in snow and never left outside overnight. With that being said it was a work truck since day one and I doubt it was waxed much, if ever. The paint was a little more faded than the first pic shows. I gave my truck a good bath and dried it off. I then used Meguiar's fine Ultimate rubbing compound with my Dewalt buffer. It came out pretty good. I then followed up using Meguiar's mirror glaze by hand with microfiber towels.. If you don't have much experience I would be very hesitant to wet sand as the paint is pretty thin. Also be very careful around sharp edge's as the paint is very thin! Practice lots of patience.. I often get people that can't believe its still the original paint, but it is...

[azle]

I wet sanded all the oxidation went down to primer in a couple small places then buffed with rubbing compound. Came out great and I still have to polish and wax. The hood looked like the tailgate. Elbow grease!!

Azle

[SpicedIcePirate]

Originally Posted by Ken B

It would help if we could see a picture of your truck so we know what you are starting with... Here is a picture of my Hugger Orange Longhorn with original paint the day I brought it home. The paint wasn't too bad on my truck because it was never driven in snow and never left outside overnight. With that being said it was a work truck since day one and I doubt it was waxed much, if ever. The paint was a little more faded than the first pic shows. I gave my truck a good bath and dried it off. I then used Meguiar's fine Ultimate rubbing compound with my Dewalt buffer. It came out pretty good. I then followed up using Meguiar's mirror glaze by hand with microfiber towels.. If you don't have much experience I would be very hesitant to wet sand as the paint is pretty thin. Also be very careful around sharp edge's as the paint is very thin! Practice lots of patience.. I often get people that can't believe its still the original paint, but it is...

Loving the Longhorn, if I have another one that isn't the '69 of the same colour that the guy I bought mine from also has, I'd like it to be a longhorn.

I see the criticism of "you can't have it both ways". No wax, and shine, While this is very true I should have been more clear. I would like to not use wax to begin with as I want to clear coat it over the patina and such at some point, to preserve it, because with that I know I'll be able to get whatever finish I want. But if I can make it look good enough without clear coat, life will be much better.

[SpicedIcePirate]

Originally Posted by garyd1961

After I put my new motor in I noticed the paint on the fenders would bead water where I got oil on them. Even after several weeks and me trying my best to wash the oil off the fenders still beaded water. So I just oiled the whole truck and let it set a couple days. I didn't want to ride around on a greasy truck so I applied a couple coats of Johnson Paste Wax over the oil. Johnson Wax doesn't leave the white residue in the cracks like car wax.
It doesn't shine like a polished and buffed job but it brought the color out and still beads water like new paint after about six months.

This is a very interesting idea, I may end up experimenting with this.

[SpicedIcePirate]

Oh, for a few pictures, check out my ridiculously slow build thread in my signature.

[70chevyC-Ten]

Originally Posted by LongBox

I want to put in a plug for mechanical buffing, which made a world of difference on the original paint on my 69. I used a Porter Cable random-orbit polisher (forget the model number), and Adams paint correcting buffing compound. Finished up with Adams sealant. Huge difference! And no, I have no financial or business connection to Adams.

Porter Cable 3424 is what I thought mine was but this sure looks like it 7424 - and Meguiar's has a Speed Glaze with a light cutting added in which works nice but fairly gentle.

https://tse4.mm.bing.net/th?id=OIP.t...wEsEG&pid=15.1