HEI Conversion

[sackracing]

Since I only know fuel injection and electronic ignition, I'm struggling with getting my 283 / 2bbl / points ignition running smooth. Thinking about swapping to HEI. Is there a complete kit available for this, or what parts should I look for?
Thanks
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[ho70]

Originally Posted by sackracing

Since I only know fuel injection and electronic ignition, I'm struggling with getting my 283 / 2bbl / points ignition running smooth. Thinking about swapping to HEI. Is there a complete kit available for this, or what parts should I look for?
Thanks
Posted via Mobile Device

Various manufacturers sell a pigtail to connect to a HEI
Here is classic industries one for $30
Product # CT39694
http://www.classicindustries.com/sho...k/parts/?q=hei

[72LB]

It's pretty straightforward, This will help. http://chevellestuff.net/tech/hei.htm

[truckster]

It's the simplest and best upgrade you'll make. Just remember you need a full 12v for HEI; the points ignition uses a resistor to step down the voltage to conserve the points.

[68GRNK20]

for those that have it how is your clearance with the firewall? My truck came with an HEI in it but it seems super close, I havn't started my truck to see how much it moves around

[jocko]

C'mon, points are FUN! It's a good skill to learn to set them - but, very true that for a daily driver, it's just hard to beat an HEI, practically maintenance free and no degradation in perf (like as when points burn down). I've not done the conversion to HEI, but I'm gonna follow along and listen in. What I won't do is ever, ever again get a dual points distributor. That pretty much sucked to tune. Stock points or HEI for me. Keep it Simple Stupid (KISS) is how I roll... Or maybe, it's the only way I CAN roll

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by 68GRNK20

for those that have it how is your clearance with the firewall? My truck came with an HEI in it but it seems super close, I havn't started my truck to see how much it moves around

It is close alright -- mine is a GM HEI from a mid-Seventies Chevy. I had to remove the cap to drop the distributor in, but it has never hit the firewall.

[Toms67]

You could convert your points distributor to electronic. And you wouldn't have to worry about firewall clearance. Google this. PerTronix Ignitor® Solid-State Ignition Systems.

[carryall]

I have did the conversion on both of my trucks. They make a small HEI distributor and that is what I when with it is great. I got both of my distributor
off of eBay.

[sackracing]

A buddy of mine told me about the pertronix drop in, they did that on an early numbers matching Vette to keep the stock appearance.

[sackracing]

http://www.pertronix.com/prod/ig/ignitor/default.aspx

[panhead59]

That pertronix modual replaces the points and you get an adjustable rev limiter all for around $100. Used em for years, no problems.

[sackracing]

https://www.holley.com/products/igni.../parts/59107CK

I'm a Holley dealer, but I don't see a drop in for the stock distributor. I could go this route.

[Sweeet67]

I just finished converting mr k10 to HEI. It is a tight fit but it's in without bending anything. It runs so much nicer now. I love it!
I also cut open the wire loom over to the firewall block and removed the inline resistor. I installed a whole new wire on to the factory connector. Not too big of a deal, just retaped it and put it back into the loom holder over the top of the firewall.
If you do a quick search, there is a pictorial thread of how to do it.

[midniteblues]

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=737738

I find this helpful when using a hei and a tach

[sackracing]

Found this from Holley

https://www.holley.com/products/igni...s/parts/170072

[davepl]

My "factory stock" appearing resto runs the Pertronix. As does my other high end resto! So I've had great luck with them.

In the truck the tach reads high at idle sometimes, I think it's the multispark feature of the module.

[sackracing]

That seems like best way to go, I need to pull the dist out and see if it's just plain worn out before I do that tho.
I'm trying to keep it looking like a late 60's custom.

[atog]

Originally Posted by jocko

C'mon, points are FUN! It's a good skill to learn to set them - but, very true that for a daily driver, it's just hard to beat an HEI, practically maintenance free and no degradation in perf (like as when points burn down). I've not done the conversion to HEI, but I'm gonna follow along and listen in. What I won't do is ever, ever again get a dual points distributor. That pretty much sucked to tune. Stock points or HEI for me. Keep it Simple Stupid (KISS) is how I roll... Or maybe, it's the only way I CAN roll

X2 definitely

[68 TT]

With an HEI you want as much voltage to it as possible. The performance difference from using a fused terminal on the stock fuse box to a direct battery source that sees full alternator output voltage when running is hard to believe. Well worth the little bit of effort to set it up that way from the start.

Getting the power for the HEI from a full battery voltage source supplied 30-amp relay is the way I like to do my conversions. Use the stock resistor wire to actuate the relay. This way it is sure to get power during the start and run cycles of the ignition switch.

[sackracing]

I'm going to a pre 68' show next weekend, I don't want to tear into it until after that. I'll update then.
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[hjewell2]

Originally Posted by sackracing

https://www.holley.com/products/igni.../parts/59107CK

I'm a Holley dealer, but I don't see a drop in for the stock distributor. I could go this route.

that's not a bad price for a HEI hi output

[sackracing]

Originally Posted by hjewell2

that's not a bad price for a HEI hi output

Not sure what my price on it is yet, I'll check tomorrow.
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[RichardJ]

Seeing as you plan on driving it.

>>I'm struggling with getting my 283 / 2bbl / points ignition running smooth<<

Have you checked the dwell with a Dwell Meter?

To check for a worn out distributor, check dwell variation while checking mechanical advance and while checking vacuum advance.

Disconnect and plug vacuum line to distributor. With timing light and Dwell Meter connected, rev engine up/down. Timing should advance smoothly and return to base timing, consistently. During this test, dwell should remain steady and not change more than 1-2 degrees.

Connect hand vacuum pump to dist vacuum can. At idle, when vacuum is applied, timing should advance smoothly and return to base timing. During this test, dwell should remain steady and not change more than 1-2 degrees.

[Ken B]

I added a Pertonix distributor to my truck. Now all I have to do is look at the ignition key and it starts...