1074 C10 Fuel Tank - LSx Swap

[epfatboy]

Swapping out the tank in my '74 for a '87 tank and sending unit.

What filler necks are being used, I plan to keep my stock filler location. I'd try to reuse the original but it's a little banged up so I figured I'd replace it.


One idea I had was to use a flexible aluminum radiator hose with rubber couplings but I was wondering if there is any safety issues with that. Something like this.


https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/5112...RoC7-4QAvD_BwE

[Goats86]

buy a new filler neck, they are not very expensive. for hose, Napa sells bulk fuel filler hose you can cut to fit. i would not use anything that is not fuel rated.

[LeesTruk]

There is a difference in the later model tanks that you might not be aware of. The fuel fill inlet port is 1 3/4" vs. a 1 1/2" inlet on the earlier models. I found this out when I did my LS swap. Despite all the different ways to overcome this obstacle, as found on the internet, the fix is easy and inexpensive. The filler neck is actually 1 3/4". It's the hose that tapers down to the smaller size. Here are some pics of the Gates fuel hose to get and where to cut it to fit

[epfatboy]

Originally Posted by LeesTruk

There is a difference in the later model tanks that you might not be aware of. The fuel fill inlet port is 1 3/4" vs. a 1 1/2" inlet on the earlier models. I found this out when I did my LS swap. Despite all the different ways to overcome this obstacle, as found on the internet, the fix is easy and inexpensive. The filler neck is actually 1 3/4". It's the hose that tapers down to the smaller size. Here are some pics of the Gates fuel hose to get and where to cut it to fit

NICE! Thanks for the part number and info. My tank should be here shortly, I'll call a few parts stores now to see if they have the hose.

Did you use your orig fuel line as a return line? I'm going to make up a braided line for the feed, thinking 6an to my FPR and then just use tube to 6an fittings to plumb in the return using the existing fuel line. My FPR will feed stock truck fuel rails, gotta take a look and see what is needed to plumb into that.

[LeesTruk]

Seems as though lots of folks jump on the "Braided hose/AN fitting" wagon for some reason. A lot of money for no apparent gain, other than maybe self-satisfaction? Personally, I used Dorman fuel lines and fittings, available at most "Real" auto parts stores. But then, that's my preference, having used the repair lines in the shop where I worked before retiring. My engine is an '05 5.3L, and uses a returnless system, so only one fuel line to the engine. Without digging up receipts, I'm thinking I have less than $50 in the nylon tubing, connectors, and junctions. The system has been in use for more than two years now, without problems. Here's some pics. I've posted them before so you may have seen them, I dunno;

[epfatboy]

The benefit of SS Braided for me is I just run line the entire length with insultater . Do you just run line down the frame rails or do you splice in some hard line too?

Never used those dorman quick connects before but willing to give it a try, they look pretty inexpensive and I have the disconnect tools already. If I do run these the FPR connections would be AN to Tube which is not big deal. I assume you run a hose clamp on the barb ends or are they just push fittings?

[moregrip]

Originally Posted by LeesTruk

Seems as though lots of folks jump on the "Braided hose/AN fitting" wagon for some reason. A lot of money for no apparent gain, other than maybe self-satisfaction? Personally, I used Dorman fuel lines and fittings, available at most "Real" auto parts stores. But then, that's my preference, having used the repair lines in the shop where I worked before retiring. My engine is an '05 5.3L, and uses a returnless system, so only one fuel line to the engine. Without digging up receipts, I'm thinking I have less than $50 in the nylon tubing, connectors, and junctions. The system has been in use for more than two years now, without problems. Here's some pics. I've posted them before so you may have seen them, I dunno;

that's a very nice job right there

[LeesTruk]

No hose clamps are needed, or used. The tubing performs a solid seal when pressed over the barbs of the fittings. One thing of note; DO NOT heat the tubing prior to fitting insertion. Nylon tubing does Not have a "memory", meaning that it will not return to original size if stretched by heat