What fittings do I need for fuel lines

[1project2many]

No, you don't need a fitting between stainless and hose. If you expand the end of the stainless the hose won't slip off when clamped. This is how factory installation is done.

Some example shapes:






I like to make a partial flare using the bubble flare tool as it seems to give the best shape. But you can get an acceptable bubble using 45 degree inverted flare mandrels.

[Groenys 57]

Originally Posted by 1project2many

No, you don't need a fitting between stainless and hose. If you expand the end of the stainless the hose won't slip off when clamped. This is how factory installation is done.

Some example shapes:






I like to make a partial flare using the bubble flare tool as it seems to give the best shape. But you can get an acceptable bubble using 45 degree inverted flare mandrels.

Thank you. I will look into the bubble flare. I have a 45 degrees flare tool I will see what kind of bubble I can get with it.

[dsraven]

-try to keep the number of fittings to a minimum, less chance of leaks or line fatigue cracking/breaking. if using a fitting near the end of a rigid line secure the line fairly close to the fitting to keep vibration from causing fatigue cracking of the rigid line near the fitting or in the fitting

-mechanically secure the rigid line to the frame, not the body, because the body will move independent of the frame and may cause issues. this would vary for those who have the tank in the cab or attached to the body. in this case secure the rigid line to the body, from the tank to the frame, until it reaches the frame area, then use flexible line for the transition to the frame. also use flexible line to connect the rigid line on the body to the outlet of the tank

-use good quality flexible fuel line. I personally prefer the fuel injection hose because it has better cotton (or whatever they use) reinforcement and holds it's shape better. if you look at the end of a cheap fuel hose compared to the better quality hose you will see the reinforcement. some have more than others. I understand you are only dealing with a suction line from the tank to the pump so there is no pressure, but I usually go with the best stuff when it comes to fuel line and clamps etc

-use flexible line for the last 6" where the mechanically secured rigid line transitions to the fuel pump or the fuel tank. this absorbs flex and vibration but also allows a disconnect to remove a pump, a tank or an inline fuel filter

-install an inline fuel filter inline before the pump in an area that is easily accessed and not directly above a hot item, like the exhaust, or near a battery or other flammable item. mechanically secure the rigid line to the frame before and after the filter and also mechanically secure the filter to the frame using some sort of bracket and a simple gear clamp around the steel fuel filter body. this allows easy filter changes but keeps the filter secure and the filter bracket allows less strain on the rigid line from the weight of the filter full of fuel plus anything that may get hung up on the filter, road debris, mud etc. use flexible line to connect the parts

-use the fuel injection style hose clamps at the junctions if possible because they have a better clamping force than a gear style clamp and also gear clamps tend to distort the flexible line (actually draw the rubber through the holes in the clamp "gear") and can cause tears in the cotton line reinforcement if torqued up too much

-use a liquid pipe dope rather than a teflon tape style of pipe thread sealant, where needed, because the tape style can break off small sections, if the connection is ever undone, and those threads of the tape can get into the fuel system and cause havoc

-flared fittings do not need a sealant. some lube on the threads but not a sealer. the seal is mechanical between the tapered parts that contact when the fitting is tightened

-use a ground wire from the fuel filler neck near the gas cap on the tank to the frame that supports the tank, whether it is mounted to the body or the truck frame. this will eliminate the static that can build as fuel runs through the fuel lines from the gas station tank, gas station pump, gas station filler hose and handle, your truck filler neck and all the way up to your fuel tank. the same reason why aircraft fuel tenders require grounding and bonding before filling the planes and also why the sign says "remove gas cans from the vehicle before filling" at any gas station. the vehicle is sitting on rubber tires (so insulated from the ground) and your body or clothes can become the connection required to ground the static. if you check a modern vehicle fuel filler neck you will see the ground wire attached to the filler neck below the gas cap and the frame of the vehicle. below are a few examples of some filter hanger ideas and also some clamps and better reinforced fuel hose. spendy but you only need a foot or 2

http://www.tanksinc.com/index.cfm/pa...rod/prd432.htm

http://www.hrpworld.com/store/defaul...ters-each.html

http://www.hps-siliconehoses.com/hps...fuel-line.html

https://www.grainger.com/product/GAT...on-Hose-45VF25

[dsraven]

check this in post 620 for a cool and cheap idea to mount the inline fuel filter

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...446527&page=25

[dsraven]

tube benders like this also do a great, uniform bend. if you have many bends I suggest some sort of bender to get a good job and have things look great when done

https://www.swagelok.com/en/catalog/...part=MS-HTB-6T