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Old 04-08-2020, 07:22 PM   #1
doowoppwer
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

certainly a lot of creativity. thanks for sharing. roger
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Old 04-09-2020, 11:07 AM   #2
gringoloco
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Originally Posted by Inverter View Post
StitchMaster. Beautiful approach for that transition.
Are you using rolocs for finish work ?
Thanks for the compliments, I spent a while thinking on this one before somewhat luckily landing on this solution. For metal finishing, I use a combination of 3” cutoff wheel on a die grinder to knock the heads off of the beads, then 4.5” flap wheel on an angle grinder, to bring them flush with the surrounding metal, then a 6” sanding disc on a DA to make it all purty. Rolocs, die grinding stones, and hammer/dolly all play their role as well, depending on the shapes and angles.
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certainly a lot of creativity. thanks for sharing. roger
Thanks Roger, I’ve learned most of what I know by watching others (many on this forum), which gives me the confidence to try new things. I hope by sharing that I can pass it on. Also makes me up my game, knowing people will be looking at my work. If not for posting here, this thing might be all bailing wire and duct tape
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
'72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD)
'05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD)
‘07 Yukon Denali (daily)

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Old 04-09-2020, 11:32 AM   #3
cornerstone
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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If not for posting here, this thing might be all bailing wire and duct tape
That's hilarious! I know what you mean, my daily driver has all kinds of half_fast "repairs"... why you ask?... because the problem was solved and no one has to look at it but me.

Every now and again I have to re-attach the dangling wires barely twisted together in the passenger side floorboard from one of these "I'll get to it later" style fixes.

I do like it when guys post their not so great work. Seeing someone else's sub-par work gives me the warm fuzzies, it makes me feel a little less Sanford and Son-ish.
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1972 C10, "Loyd", LWB to SWB, 5.3, L83/6L80e, 4:11 Tru Trac, Air Ride, VA, DD, 20" Coys, 4 wheel disc, A quick LS swap turned into a 6 year frame off resto-mod.
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Old 04-09-2020, 11:37 AM   #4
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

How much clearance are you allowing around the tightest places for your driveshaft? I'm in the middle of this now also and not sure if I should trim my cab floor also. It looks like I've got about 3/4 of an inch after I install my driveshaft.
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1972 C10, "Loyd", LWB to SWB, 5.3, L83/6L80e, 4:11 Tru Trac, Air Ride, VA, DD, 20" Coys, 4 wheel disc, A quick LS swap turned into a 6 year frame off resto-mod.
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Old 04-09-2020, 01:32 PM   #5
SCOTI
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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How much clearance are you allowing around the tightest places for your driveshaft? I'm in the middle of this now also and not sure if I should trim my cab floor also. It looks like I've got about 3/4 of an inch after I install my driveshaft.
Bottom the suspension out completely & make sure the d.shaft doesn't contact anything. If it does, trim things back until it doesn't. I usually build things w/a 1/8" thick (yard stick) spacer to pad my clearances.
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Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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Old 04-09-2020, 06:00 PM   #6
cornerstone
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

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Bottom the suspension out completely & make sure the d.shaft doesn't contact anything. If it does, trim things back until it doesn't. I usually build things w/a 1/8" thick (yard stick) spacer to pad my clearances.
Thanks Scoti, that sounds like solid advice. I was thinking I'd need at least an inch, but I like your plan better.
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1972 C10, "Loyd", LWB to SWB, 5.3, L83/6L80e, 4:11 Tru Trac, Air Ride, VA, DD, 20" Coys, 4 wheel disc, A quick LS swap turned into a 6 year frame off resto-mod.
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Old 04-12-2020, 08:32 PM   #7
gringoloco
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Quote:
Originally Posted by cornerstone View Post
How much clearance are you allowing around the tightest places for your driveshaft? I'm in the middle of this now also and not sure if I should trim my cab floor also. It looks like I've got about 3/4 of an inch after I install my driveshaft.
Quote:
Originally Posted by SCOTI View Post
Bottom the suspension out completely & make sure the d.shaft doesn't contact anything. If it does, trim things back until it doesn't. I usually build things w/a 1/8" thick (yard stick) spacer to pad my clearances.
Quote:
Originally Posted by cornerstone View Post
Thanks Scoti, that sounds like solid advice. I was thinking I'd need at least an inch, but I like your plan better.
I buried mine on the bumpstops then allowed minimum 3/8” all around. I like a little bit of wiggle room and am saving space for a possible driveshaft safety loop. I think if you have 3/4” of space, you are way good.
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
'72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD)
'05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD)
‘07 Yukon Denali (daily)

Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy
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Old 04-12-2020, 08:28 PM   #8
gringoloco
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Hump is done. Not metal-worked to perfection, but doesn’t need to be. I got her finish welded and knocked down smooth, shot with a coat of self-etch on the top and undercoated the bottom, then bolted her in with a bead of window weld cord to seal. Looks and fits like it belongs and has taken the first layer of sound deadener.
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'70 Short-Wide How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10
‘70 Blazer ConversionHow To: Ruin a Perfectly Good 4wd
'72 Highlander How To: Ruin a Perfectly Good K/5 (SOLD)
'72 Blazer 2WD How to: Ruin a perfectly good Blazer (SOLD)
'05 Yukon Daily Driven (not so stock) Yukon (SOLD)
‘07 Yukon Denali (daily)

Members met list: SCOTI, darkhorse970, 67cheby, 67cheby'sGirl, klmore, porterbuilt, n2billet, Fastrucken, classicchev, Col Clank, GSFMECH, HuggerCST, Spray-Bomb, BACKYARD88, 5150, fine69, fatbass, smbrouss70, 65StreetCruiser, GAc10boy
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Old 04-12-2020, 08:33 PM   #9
SCOTI
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Re: How to: Ruin a perfectly good C10

Well done.
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67SWB-B.B.RetroRod
64SWB-Recycle
89CCDually-Driver/Tow Truck
99CCSWB Driver
All Fleetsides
@rattlecankustoms in IG

Building a small, high rpm engine with the perfect bore, stroke and rod ratio is very impressive.
It's like a highly skilled Morrocan sword fighter with a Damascus Steel Scimitar.....

Cubic inches is like Indiana Jones with a cheap pistol.
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