LFD's project white lightning -- 1968 fleetside "basically stock"

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by Dieselwrencher

Like asked before, would a harbor freight spot welder work for atleast the lower pinch weld? Very nice work, keep it up!

I really do not know if it would or not. I am new to the spot welding and have not tried the cheap 110V HF model. It all depends on what their rating is and how thick of metal they are designed for. Mine is rated for up to 3/16" thick.

And as far as cutting install time by half, I think while it does save some it also takes more prep and fit of the parts because everything has to fit 100% perfect or the spot welder will not work at all. As with plug welding you have a lot more leigh way and it only takes some grinding of the welds and you are done. So it does save time but not really much in the end of the job.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

I got a bit more done today on the firewall before running out of my sanding disks. Good thing my supplier will be at the goodguys show this weekend so I can restock.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[ChuckDriver]

It's been said many times, but you sir do GREAT work!!

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by ChuckDriver

It's been said many times, but you sir do GREAT work!!

Thanks I try!

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Dieselwrencher]

Kevin, thanks for the info! Keep up the awesome work!

[68 short step]

hey kevin, looks great.... i really like how you made the firewall/ engine recess symetrical with the pass side, doing away with the spot for the clutch rod...also i like the 45* wire gutter cap.....with all that work id say you're past the 'stock look', and the only thing id suggest to enhance what you've already done, is shave the steering wheel opening, and go with a nice aluminium bulkhead...

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by 68 short step

hey kevin, looks great.... i really like how you made the firewall/ engine recess symetrical with the pass side, doing away with the spot for the clutch rod...also i like the 45* wire gutter cap.....with all that work id say you're past the 'stock look', and the only thing id suggest to enhance what you've already done, is shave the steering wheel opening, and go with a nice aluminium bulkhead...

Thanks but it is only past stock because we all know what stock is. But for the average car guy/gal when he pops the hood nothing will shout out as "Look at Me!" but instead will all flow together real nice. As for the steering column, we looked at that but with the brakes, E-cable and wiring still being their we felt it would add to the look using the stock parts to hold the column. Trust me as simple as this is their was a lot of thought and calls back and forth to get to were we are. It will look great when everything is back in place.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[caja_larga]

how do you like the gibbs? have you done a paint job after using it? where do you buy it?

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by caja_larga

how do you like the gibbs? have you done a paint job after using it? where do you buy it?

You must get it from Gibbs and I have not done a paint job over it yet but several friends who own some of the top rod and paint shops swair by it. They claim you can paint right over it with out cleaning but they still recommend you wipe the car down with what ever paint brands "prep-wipe" before painting just because their are so many different paint companies out their today it is just good insurance. Now what I have done is spray a few pieces with it and let it sit for a few days then take some spray paint and spray over it. I did not get any "fish eye's" and after the paint was dry it was just as hard to scrape off as it was on bare clean metal. So far I am sold on the stuff.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

Well the fire wall is done just waiting on the A/C unit so I can build mounts in side the cab with out any visible fasteners then I will fill the old A/C hole. Then once that is done I will drop the cab back down and start the Cowl panel mods! I hope to have it all finished up by the end of the month.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[IMG][/IMG]

[Dieselwrencher]

How does the gibbs compare to say 3m brand weld through primer? That is what I have been using and have always wondered if it was a good product or not. I usually can't see it after it is welded up.

[Rokcrln]

Gibbs is for bare metal so it won't flash rust before being sealed with an epoxy. It is not a rust preventer that can be left forever.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Dieselwrencher]

Oops, sorry about that. Is that spray can in the pic the gibbs you are talking about? That sure would be nice to have so you don't have to keep recleaning the metal if you are too busy to get it all finished up and primed. Have you ever used the 3m weld through primer? Just curious to whether it is good or if I need to find a better one.

[stynchrr]

I am wondering what you use under that gutter cap for rust protection.
Tim

[my67chevytruck]

Originally Posted by stynchrr

I am wondering what you use under that gutter cap for rust protection.
Tim

Kevin stated this in post 54

Before doing any welding I first treated the bare metal gutter, then seam sealed the factory seam before coating it with a good top coat.

[POPO1984]

Every thread I see that has LFD In the title I check out and learn at least two new things from it. You are the man Bro

[idonutn0]

Originally Posted by Rokcrln

Before doing any welding I first treated the bare metal gutter, then seam sealed the factory seam before coating it with a good top coat.

What exactly do you use to treat the metal and top coat the gutter before welding? Also, have you ever had an issue of rust through after you have covered the gutter??
You would be willing to post templates for the wire channel would you???

Thanks for sharing you progress and tips. Always a learning experience.

[lyrikz]

Woohoo, new thread. I like that gibbs stuff.

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by POPO1984

Every thread I see that has LFD In the title I check out and learn at least two new things from it. You are the man Bro

Thanks, I read everything I can get my hands on to try and always learn more and I try and pass that on with a few pics when I can.

Originally Posted by idonutn0

What exactly do you use to treat the metal and top coat the gutter before welding? Also, have you ever had an issue of rust through after you have covered the gutter??
You would be willing to post templates for the wire channel would you???

Thanks for sharing you progress and tips. Always a learning experience.

As for templets, it is really hard to do because this is one of the areas that varies the most on these trucks. I guess the guys on the line figured what the heck it's under the hood right. I will try and find a pic of the template I used for this one if I still have it so you can see how it looks laid out flat before cutting.

As for treating the metal, it depends on what shape the metal is in to start with. If their is real rust already I will cut it out and replace the bad parts. As with this truck the metal was super and bare as could be from blasting. I always send cabs to the blaster on one of my tip and flip dollies with the tip arms so they can flop it all around and get every nook and cranny. And since they charge by the hour it is also less money because it makes it so easy to do.

So once it gets back from the stripper I spray everything down with Gibbs oil and let it soak in for a few days before starting. Gibbs can be painted right over but I still recommend wiping it down with a prep wipe first. The Gibbs penetrates down into the metal and just gives one more layer of defense. Then I will use a bare metal rust inhibitor (brand is not important they all do well in this set up) let it dry real good then top cote it with a good epoxy like DP90. Now this is just for down in the gutter where I will not be welding. Were welding will take place I skip the DP90 and use a weld through primmer (their is a pic of the can in the passenger side door during rocker install) and cote both surfaces that will get welded and let it dry over night. Then weld it up and move in to the next area.

I have never had rust come back through but anything is possible, my way may not be perfect but it sure is toms better then what the factory did for us. It has been very rare that I have seen any kind of protection in concealed areas so figure any precaution we take will last that much longer. Also after we build these I don't think their are a lot of them that get left out in the field for another 10+ years just left to the elements.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Dieselwrencher]

Thanks for the step by step procedure Kevin. I agree every little bit will help. It seems that that's all these trucks do in our area is rust.

[stynchrr]

Thanks I guess I didn't see any over spray of primer so had to ask. I think any thing is better than what they did at the factory and look how it lasted with these truck being used as trucks. I know mine will not see the same conditions and will out last me. I am going to look into Gibbs for my future projects I am impressed so far.
Tim
Tim

[mcbassin]

Kevin,
I am assuming since your customer is going to use some type of aftermarket a/c and heater system? Which one is he using do you recommend a certain brand? I have heard good things about Vintage air. I am preparing to start on cab project for my son's truck and am trying to decide whether or not to smooth the firewall or use the original heater and a/c. I think I can handle the metal work, just not too sure about going as far as you have on this one. Also, do you use straight argon for your tig? thanks,
Mike

[Rokcrln]

Originally Posted by stynchrr

Thanks I guess I didn't see any over spray of primer so had to ask. I think any thing is better than what they did at the factory and look how it lasted with these truck being used as trucks. I know mine will not see the same conditions and will out last me. I am going to look into Gibbs for my future projects I am impressed so far.
Tim
Tim

No once it was laid out I marked the edge and used a 3" 80grit disk to clean to the line. They say weld through primmer will weld and it does but it will contaminate the Tig tip much faster then clean metal.

Originally Posted by mcbassin

Kevin,
I am assuming since your customer is going to use some type of aftermarket a/c and heater system? Which one is he using do you recommend a certain brand? I have heard good things about Vintage air. I am preparing to start on cab project for my son's truck and am trying to decide whether or not to smooth the firewall or use the original heater and a/c. I think I can handle the metal work, just not too sure about going as far as you have on this one. Also, do you use straight argon for your tig? thanks,
Mike

I think he is using Old Air but I will know for sure when it ever shows up. I have used Vintage air with good results and have had customers use both with good results. Something to note is if you get their sure fit system then the lines will come out were the old unit was located but if you order a custom fit unit then you can run the lines were you want them. Once I get this trucks unit then I can decide were the lines will meet up with the bulk heads to enter the engine bay.

Yes I use 100% argon for my tig and 75/25 for my mig.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[Rokcrln]

Ok A/C showed up and it is the Vintage Air custom fit unit. I will start first thing Friday morning (after waking from my food coma) and build the mounts for the inside of the firewall then I can fill that big hole I have been starring at for too long now. Then onto the cowl and a few other misc tasks and if all goes well it should be finished up by Monday or Tuesday at the latest.

Kevin
LFD Inc.

[MrBeast]

Right on, im stoked ofr another LFD build!

They are great motivation.