Putting summit vortecs/arp head bolts on ?'s

[mongoose]

guess.... it doesn't have to be exact. and leave everything unplugged, yes..

you're spinning the motor to get all of the mechanical advance out of the distributor, so that number ie 34 or w/e it is will be the max the motor will ever see.


but yes.. the motor has to be revving at that or higher really, to set the total timing properly.

[oldblue1968chevy]

so should i invest in a tach? lol

what am i leaving 'unplugged' lol still lost there?..

[Captainfab]

Total timing is set with the vacuum advance on the distributor disconnected, and with the hose plugged. You don't ant a vacuum leak.

I would recommend getting a tach.

[oldblue1968chevy]

Ok, tach is on the list!

my vavles are still a lil loose...I loosened them up 1/4 turn (maybe not that much) after I set them, yes I know it was dumb..

Should I:

Cut some old valve covers up to keep the oil from going everywhere

Or do it another way (still not really sure on this), can anyone explain the thing ticker had seemed like it was for setting valves to zero lash then another 1/2 turn or something..

thanks guys

[bitchin85]

Originally Posted by oldblue1968chevy

Ok, tach is on the list!

my vavles are still a lil loose...I loosened them up 1/4 turn (maybe not that much) after I set them, yes I know it was dumb..

Should I:

Cut some old valve covers up to keep the oil from going everywhere

Or do it another way (still not really sure on this), can anyone explain the thing ticker had seemed like it was for setting valves to zero lash then another 1/2 turn or something..

thanks guys

start over.. back the nuts off a couple turns and make sure the valve your adjusting is closed fully. spin the pushrod between your fingers while tightening the nut down and stop when you feel it start to get hard to spin (zero lash) then go another 1/2 turn. dont waste your time and a t-shirt cutting up old valve covers doing it that way...

[Ticker]

Originally Posted by *****in85

when you feel it start to get hard to spin (zero lash)

This is well past zero lash; the pushrod needs to be rolled between the fingers until you feel the first hint of drag - go back and forth a few times until you get the feel. Loose...then just a TOUCH of "not loose" is zero lash.

Based on the quoted comment it's important to note that this a) must be done with the engine at the right position and b) with the engine not running.

[oldblue1968chevy]

so with a cold motor, should i set the valves to 'ZERO LASH' and put the covers on and call it good?

When I did it on the stand i tightned em too much, not zero lash, but to where you could BARELY spin the pushrod with your fingers...

A-adj. to zero lash call it done (on cold motor)

B-throw towel on motor and adj. valves while running?

thanks

[Ticker]

A little time spent reading the linked article does a world of good; if you're going to do this stuff you need to be willing to invest some time to learn. The link in my sig walks you through it - but I'll put it here again:

1. Set the engine to TDC compression #1. This is done by removing the #1 spark plug and the coil wire or HEI distributor connection, putting your finger over the hole and having someone "bump" the engine until you feel pressure..and then bumping it carefully so the timing mark is at '0' degrees. If you overshoot, you need to go all the way around until you feel pressure again. A remote starter switch for $15 makes this a bunch easier...

2. Adjust exhaust valve: 1, 3, 4, 8

3. Adjust intake valve: 1, 2, 5, 7

4. Set the engine to TDC compression #6. Same as above, but with the #6 plug.

5. Ajust exhaust valve: 2, 5, 6, 7

6. Adjust intake valve: 3, 4, 6, 8

They're set to zero lash plus 1/2 turn for a CompCams cam.

Adjusting them while running just makes a mess and ends up with way too much preload.

If your lash was set that tight on the stand, you need to check your filter for particulate after the break-in. That much preload during break-in is unfortunately a quick way to flatten a cam. I would also pull the pushrods to be sure they're not bent.

[oldblue1968chevy]

I backed them off alot before the motor was started, hence the clacking

But i can check pushrods

Ok, I started the motor again today. Set timing to 10*btdc wasnt really sure what to set it at

2 very slow leaks:

I have a leak where the hardline screws into the pump (brand new pump/line)! I loosened tightened loosened tightend it. Maybe that will help (what I have heard)

Also, Have a SLOW leak at the waterneck on the intake, its OEM GM I just cleaned repainted, new gasket, it leaks just a little bit. What should i do? Im thinking: Take it off check for squareness re apply with THIN bead of rtv around both sides re install?

thank you.

[Ticker]

So...you're starting and running the new engine with clacking valves?

[oldblue1968chevy]

Yes? I thought its better to have them a lil loose than too tight?...

[Ticker]

No; they need to be right. Now you're just beating the Hell out of the valve stem tips.

Slow down and take care of the stuff that's going to make scrap if you're not careful.

[bitchin85]

Originally Posted by Ticker

This is well past zero lash; the pushrod needs to be rolled between the fingers until you feel the first hint of drag - go back and forth a few times until you get the feel. Loose...then just a TOUCH of "not loose" is zero lash.

Based on the quoted comment it's important to note that this a) must be done with the engine at the right position and b) with the engine not running.

thats whati was getting at i guess i just didnt explain it right.. and GET THE VALVES ADJUSTED before you run it.. you could mess that thing up before you get to enjoy it.. as for the leaks, did you flare the line or is it factory? try a tad of thread sealant.

as for the water leak, get the paint off the surface of the intake and the water neck. put rtv on both sides of the gasket and tighten it down snug let it set up a little then re tighten it DONT OVER TORQUE IT and if its one of those cheap-o chrome ones, throw it away and get an aluminum stock style one. they just bend and warp and will never seal

[Ticker]

Originally Posted by *****in85

thats whati was getting at i guess i just didnt explain it right..

I may have just read it wrong too - I just wanted to make sure we were on the same page

[oldblue1968chevy]

ok stupid question but which vavles are intake, and which ones are exhaust, i know theres 2 per piston but which is which thanks! lol

[ERASER5]

Exhaust 1st, 4th, 5th, 8th Intake 2nd, 3rd, 6th, 7th

Exhaust

OO OO OO OO

Intake

[oldblue1968chevy]

The exhuast vavle is the valve above the exhaust ports, correct? (how i adj. them)

I still have a slight tick somewhere after what ticker said, I must've not quite gotten the 'zero lash'.

I went to where I felt resistance and STOPPED, maybe not enough resistance LOL

Btw, I did it while the motor was still sorta warm, 120* MAYBE

Edit, I pulled it outa the shop 1 time, with clutch fully dis engauged, it BARELY moved, this means i need to take some slack out of the linkage, right?

thanks guys

[Captainfab]

When you adjust the valves you need to go 1/2 turn past 'Zero Lash'

[Ticker]

The most likely causes are the engine not being positioned correctly or the valves not being adjusted in the right order.

Locating the valves is easy - the exhaust valves are directly across from the exhaust ports - and the intake valves are directly across from where the intake runners contact the head.

The other reason for the tapping at this point is that a lobe is flat from being far overtightened during break-in...which is usually fatal. Probably worth a look a the oil and filter...

[oldblue1968chevy]

it wasnt over tightened in break in! I set em all at zero lash plus 3/4 more, then thought that was too much so i backed em all off a 1/2 turn or so!

#1/#6 were at tdc with balancer - - lines up

edit motor was still hot at the time..that have anything to do with it

an it could be an exhaust leak..lol

[oldblue1968chevy]

ok, got my clutch problem taken care of (had wrong throwout bearing..)

My timing needs to be 12-13 btdc? Right? Also, thats with the line going to dizzy plugged?

Ok, i have fancy light with a dial, if I set the dial at 13* btdc i wanna line the marks on the balancer/timing tab at -- 0* right? then the gun makes the difference? Im a lil confused here.

Also, I wired my tach to keyed hot and ground and then the green wire to the distributor, (front plug)

is this correct because it doesnt work.

I picked up a edelbrock 600 cfm from a friend, im rebuilding it. Will that be enough for this motor? Thank you

I still have an exhaust leak and 1 vavle is ticking, im not sure if its the leak or a valve still loose, i'll run thru tickers faq on vavle settings again

I did take it down the driveway and back, doesnt have much power, but the timing is quite a few degrees off..?

What is the order?

Time the motor
adjust carberator (2 front screws)
then adj. idle?

thank you

ps what should it idle at (rpms?)

oh, I just thought of something i forgot!!!

what should the gap on the plugs be set at?

thank you

[oldblue1968chevy]

anyone?

im gonna reset my vavles like ticker said (2nd time) and get it timed to 13*btdc and see what happnes,oh and change the oil and turn the carb screws (eddy 500) 1 3/4 tunrns out

[Ticker]

Do you have a service manual?

[oldblue1968chevy]

Yes, I have a clymer manual for 67-87 or something like that..its pretty broad, but its all just about the same anyway

[oldblue1968chevy]

Okie dokie!

I went back and adjusted vavles (ticker/clymer manual are the same)

Still makes a clacking noise, NOW I did drive it once after I adjusted them like ticker said...and it had a terrible exhaust leak...

How would i go about checking exhaust bolts/nuts (stock ram horns)

make sure its all tight or what? maybe loosen em all, then tighten em even LOL, may try that, im draining the oil right now and going back 1040 valvoline with lucas break in with zinc may go synthetic in 500 or so miles