'67 5.3L Build Thread

[67C10BUB]

Originally Posted by awhite4557

What radiator hoses did you use? I have a 71 chev C-10 and am installing a 2001 5.3 out of a GMC Suburban and the GMC Suburban hoses are too small for the 71 Radiator fittings?

I used the factory 5.3 hoses. They will slide on with a little silicone spray. I know they are a little small, but they seem fine once attached. You will have to trim the lower one down so it doesn't kink.

[awhite4557]

I'll give it a try, just wanted to make sure before I forced anything. Thanks.

[1sik7t2]

thats what i did, but mounted the cooler to my core support between it and the grille, with higher pressure lines, not sure how high, with barbed ends...THEY told me it would work

Originally Posted by rob32472

Just a suggestion but why not just install a cooler on the frame rail close to the trans? It would be about the same money and look sweet!

[mcbassin]

Originally Posted by 67C10BUB

I used the ECE ls motor install kit. I also used their trans x-member and everything bolted in perfectly. I highly suggest it.
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Thanks, I am going to try to make some adapter plates and use the 73 up motor mounts like you used.

[awhite4557]

Thanks for the help, I sprayed silicone on the hoses and fittings and the hoses slid right on.

[67C10BUB]

No problem. Glad I could help.

[67C10BUB]

Got the new master cylinder/booster installed this weekend and put in all new brake lines. The front is the 6770FLK brake line kit from CPP. I spoke with Mario at CPP at he helped me out tremendously. He is a really great guy who is building a truck himself, so he knows how difficult things can be. If anyone else is planning on doing the same as me (Grand Slam kit and 6770FLK brake line kit) make sure to ask for 1/4" brake hoses with your grand slam. You can also see the CPP steering shaft kit. It upgrades to a universal joint at the top, a new rag joint, and a slip joint on the shaft. It is very easy to install since you just cut the stainless shaft in the middle to size and slip it in.

[67C10BUB]

I also got a new track bar from CPP and had my drive shaft shortened and balance at Inland Empire Driveline. They also put new U-joints at both ends and put in a 27 spline slip yoke to mate up to the 4L60E. I am lucky that they are so close to me (right down the street).

[67C10BUB]

I sent my ECM back to John at Speartech and had him remove the DOD/AFM function that was giving me problems (as some may have noticed on my other thread). The motor now runs 100X better and is super smooth. All codes are gone except for a bank 1 and 2 lean code. I was wondering if someone might know if this is because my crankcase ventilation tube is on the filter side of the MAF rather than the manifold side. Does it matter?

[68GMCCustom]

I wouldn't set it up like that. Seems like you'll be getting the MAF dirty much faster pulling engine vacuum/oil residue.

[67C10BUB]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

I wouldn't set it up like that. Seems like you'll be getting the MAF dirty much faster pulling engine vacuum/oil residue.

Very good point. I think I will relocate it no matter what.

[c10seconds]

Looks awesome!
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[68GMCCustom]

if you've never cleaned the throttle body (and behind the throttle plate) on one of these LSx motors after 15k-25k miles or so.... you'll find lots of black soot all over the back. There's no fuel or coolant....and not supposed to be anything but air in one of these intakes? Surprise! Its pulling oil residue from the pcv (and who knows where else).

[67C10BUB]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

if you've never cleaned the throttle body (and behind the throttle plate) on one of these LSx motors after 15k-25k miles or so.... you'll find lots of black soot all over the back. There's no fuel or coolant....and not supposed to be anything but air in one of these intakes? Surprise! Its pulling oil residue from the pcv (and who knows where else).

Good info, thanks. Any idea what might be causing my lean codes? I am thinking about getting a steam iron and see if I can see anywhere that the intake might be leaking.

[68GMCCustom]

well I'd have to guess......but if your getting the code on both banks, then (unless you have 2 bad 02 sensors) the only way for it to run lean on both sides is the injectors aren't doing what they should be (and are being commanded to do by the PCM to do) doing....or....you have a intake leak?

[67C10BUB]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

well I'd have to guess......but if your getting the code on both banks, then (unless you have 2 bad 02 sensors) the only way for it to run lean on both sides is the injectors aren't doing what they should be (and are being commanded to do by the PCM to do) doing....or....you have a intake leak?

The O2 sensors are new and the injectors were just professionally cleaned/balanced. I must have an intake leak I think. It just seems hard to find.

[68GMCCustom]

If the intake is like mine was it has a plastic gasket frame with a rubber sort of o-ring style gasket around each port. Possible one of o-rings got pinched?

[67C10BUB]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

If the intake is like mine was it has a plastic gasket frame with a rubber sort of o-ring style gasket around each port. Possible one of o-rings got pinched?

I believe it is the same, but I have never had it off. It went out of the wrecked truck and into my truck. I didn't take it apart at all, so I have no clue what's going on in there. I may take it to a professional and have them troubleshoot it.

[67C10BUB]

Here is how I modified my intake. I cut out about 4" of the long tube and swapped it with the MAF.

[67C10BUB]

I also got the bed back on this weekend and drove the truck under its own power. It was very exciting, but I have a few brake line leaks I have to take care of. I haven't figured out what I want to do for the wood in the bed yet, so I left it empty for now. Looks kinda' cool for now.

[tantrumpipeline]

Congrats on the test ride, truck looks great, almost a shame to put a wood bed in and cover that nice work up, but I'm sure the wood you install will look just as good as the rest of the truck.

[68GMCCustom]

what are your plans for the fuel inlet on your tank? I have the same one and am trying to decide to put a door in the wood that opens up to the filler below.....or cut the top off my tanks filler...and put a marine setup in with a flush cap in the bedwood and a short rubber hose to connect to the tank neck.

[67chevy1series]

its nice and lite did yu fry the tires a little ,does it have the power you were exspecting

[67C10BUB]

Originally Posted by 68GMCCustom

what are your plans for the fuel inlet on your tank? I have the same one and am trying to decide to put a door in the wood that opens up to the filler below.....or cut the top off my tanks filler...and put a marine setup in with a flush cap in the bedwood and a short rubber hose to connect to the tank neck.

I am just going to put the billet door in the wood. It looks like it should work out fairly well and I can get the billet door at Auto Zone for $50 and it is keyed.

[67C10BUB]

Originally Posted by 67chevy1series

its nice and lite did yu fry the tires a little ,does it have the power you were exspecting

No, I didn't get to test the power yet. I wanted to get the brake line leak fixed before I got crazy with it. Plus, it is pretty loud with the open headers, so I may wait for exhaust to do the real test drive.