HOW TO: Crossmember sectioning ...

[64chevtruck]

Hi Chief, Ive done 3 pancakes so far thanks to your writeup, thank you for posting it,

However I have been thinking about moving the CM forward an inch like you mentioned above to center the wheels, does this cause any other issues with steering>?

Thanks again

Have a good week

[wwdd77]

I sectioned my crossmember 1.5" and was changing over to the 90 suburban power steering (my doner truck). With 2.5" drop sprindles and most likely a 1 or 2" spring drop to go along with it, i'd have to raise the steering box like 2.5".

I whacked away at my crossmember and fit in a T-bird R&P. Not saying i won't have bumpsteer, but hopefully it is manageable.

I want to move my crossmember forward to center my wheels in the fender too.
I've been reading threads on moving the lower control arm forward to add Caster, and also moving the entire crossmember a little to finish off centering it in the fender.

i've seen 1" is the dimension, and with the R&P my steering shouldn't be any more off than it already may be since it's all moving together.

What is the dimension to move it forward? i've seen 1" and and also heard 1.5".?

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by 64chevtruck

Hi Chief, Ive done 3 pancakes so far thanks to your writeup, thank you for posting it,

However I have been thinking about moving the CM forward an inch like you mentioned above to center the wheels, does this cause any other issues with steering>?

Thanks again

Have a good week

Well, as mentioned, you will need to adjust steering box height according to the amount of crossmember section.

While at it, you might as well adjust for forward movement as well.

[64chevtruck]

Hi Chief, Thanks for the response, The first CM I sectioned I did 2 inches, I had to shim the CM up a half inch after that, And the motor mounts so it would not interfere with the steering,

After that on the last 2 I did I went 1.5 inches for the section, This made it so the only steering mod needed was a notch in the upper drivers control arm to clear the steering shaft.

My question to you, (and im sorry if youve answered it before, Ive read through your build and must have missed it)

Is if I move my CM forward an inch would it require any more steering mods?

As I typed the question above, I realized moving the CM forward would make the steering shaft hit the upper control arm even more, and would require raising the steering up like you have already said.

Anyway thanks so much for your time posting pics and info.

Have a good week.

[jonzcustomshop]

doing some research and stumbled upon this thread that details the steering w/ this mod...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=649493

[scum1]

Originally Posted by jonzcustomshop

doing some research and stumbled upon this thread that details the steering w/ this mod...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=649493

excellent thread on the steering. nice find.

Bumping this for a quick question...

Im going to be sectioning the xmember only to gain "ground to crossmember clearance, not really to go lower, and I'm also going to cut off the stock upper coil pockets where my current upper bag bolts to, and remake an upper bag plate.


While I'm at it i definitely want to take advantage of moving the xmember forward an inch for looks, and i know thats going to move the engine with it..

it looks like the motor mounts are bolted pretty far back on the xmember as it is, meaning its unlikely i could simply drill a new mounting hole for the motor mount 1" back, if i wanted to try and keep the engine in the same place. is this right?

anyone have any tips for this type of mod..i am limited on drive shaft yoke length, moving my motor/trans forward would leave me with very little yoke attached to the output shaft in case y'all were wondering.

[jonzcustomshop]

I moved mine forward 1 inch, I left the motor in the stock location, and I ended up using the 63-66 OG motor mounts and towers- they only use 1 bolt on the bottom and it lined up w/ the Xmember.
I looked into using the later style mounts but I would have had to fab a mounting plate for the lower bolts.
I also needed to raise my motor up (motor mounts) 1/2 to 3/4 inch to clear the steering which I raised with the Xmember section.
I sectioned the Xmember 2 inches.

this thread-page 11 post 253 for pics:http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...646830&page=11

[ChiefRocka]

Indeed....move xmemeber as you wish...and redial hole

[scum1]

you guys are killin it..people always ask me why i change so much stuff when i don't need to..and I'm like why not, having step by steps and info from you guys and others on this board is worth its weight in gold. I appreciate it.

[Wingnut Way]

I’ve been through quiet a few posts and on the moving the cross member forward, I’ve read 1 inch, 1.25 inch and 1.5 inch. More than just on this thread, if your wondering where I have read those measurements. I plan on going one inch. My question is how are you guys measuring the one inch. I may be over thinking it but I wana know before I start drilling holes. Are we talkin one inch forward dead center on the old holes to dead center on all the new holes, or are we talking front edge of old hole to rear edge of new hole. Thanks for the help.

[ChiefRocka]

Originally Posted by Wingnut Way

I’ve been through quiet a few posts and on the moving the cross member forward, I’ve read 1 inch, 1.25 inch and 1.5 inch. More than just on this thread, if your wondering where I have read those measurements. I plan on going one inch. My question is how are you guys measuring the one inch. I may be over thinking it but I wana know before I start drilling holes. Are we talkin one inch forward dead center on the old holes to dead center on all the new holes, or are we talking front edge of old hole to rear edge of new hole. Thanks for the help.

Generally speaking, when somebody says move a hole one inch forward it's generally referred to as hole "center".

I feel 1" is typically perfect .... but a suspension mock-up for you may be worth doing. Get everything together and cycle the suspension and see if that's where you're going to want to be.

[Wingnut Way]

Thanks for the response. Center to center is what I assumed, I just second guessing myself. I just wanted to hear it from someone who has done it before. I don’t wana have to hang all the tins on it again and measure measure measure. Thanks

[Wingnut Way]

I made these templets to move crossmember forward one inch. This way I can use them again. Drilled 1/4 hole to use a transfer punch, works great. I still have to make some templets to move the steering box and idler arm forward one inch. I’m also gana make the same templet move the steering box and idler up for the pancake.

[crakarjax]

That's a good idea! Is the purpose just to center the wheels in the wheel well?

[Wingnut Way]

Yea just centering the front wheels in the wheel wells. Figured I’d make a few jigs where I can just put em on and drill them out without having to measure every time. Still need to make some for the steering box and idler arm. Ima cheap ass tryin to use as much of the stock stuff as possible.
If anybody wondering
Top set of side holes I got 3 7/16” center to center on the factory holes
Bottom set of holes on side of frame rail I got 5 1/2” center to center on factory holes
And the bottom lip of factory rail has 3 holes and I got 2 3/4” center to on factory holes
Just moved everything 1” forward. Fell right in place with little effort

[crakarjax]

I moved just my lower a-arm shaft forward about 3/4" iirc which helps with both caster and centering -- haven't installed them yet though, so I can't say whether it's enough to truly center the wheel.

[Wingnut Way]

Yea mine don’t have the tins back on it yet so I’m not sure if it’s center nor not yet, I asked these guys on this thread and they have done some and seems like everybody and everything is saying one inch. The aftermarket control arms they sell, pbf etc, all state that it moves everything forward one inch. So that’s what I went off

[Wingnut Way]

Ima pancake crossmember next Lol I didn’t mean to go on tangent on thread just thought might be some good info if someone is pancaking crossmember they might be intrested

[Clrussell]

Subbing for info later

[Wingnut Way]

Progress

[Wingnut Way]

....

[w00dst0ck]

Originally Posted by Wingnut Way

....

You should totally rent those out. I'm about to tackle this on the girl's burban. Pulled some lowers and CM off one of my donor trucks today.

[Wingnut Way]

Everything clears, stock steering gear, pancaked crossmember 1.5”, 1” forward. No rack and pinion

[WEBBY1]

hmm... I went two inches. I gotta figure out steering

[Wingnut Way]

I know I’m not laying on frame rails at 1.5” pancake. Thought i could be but ima need some small drop spindles not to exited on buying those. But at 2” pancake i think I woulda had to do a wayyy bigger notch in frame to clear the whole arm of idler and pitman. At 1.5 I get away with just clearing part of the arms at an angle.