46 pickemup in NJ "the Rebuild"

[egarage]

Paintman, I,m installing a 292 engine and a frame mount power brake conversion kit in my 46 also and have been trying to find out about excessive heat from the exhaust and have found out that we should leave 4 to 6 inches space bt exhaust and conversion kit. I thought of using some sort of heat shield. Have you given any thought about this and what are you going to do? Don

[paintman]

Originally Posted by egarage

Paintman, I,m installing a 292 engine and a frame mount power brake conversion kit in my 46 also and have been trying to find out about excessive heat from the exhaust and have found out that we should leave 4 to 6 inches space bt exhaust and conversion kit. I thought of using some sort of heat shield. Have you given any thought about this and what are you going to do? Don

I know what your saying. In fact that's one of the reasons I designed my headers the way i did so one of the tubes could go to the other side of the truck. I'm not so sure that one tube being fed by only 3 cylinders will make all that much heat to be concerned (at least in my case).

I don't think there's any way you could fit both exhaust tubes in between the tranny and a brake booster. I have also seen (a V8) where guys have run both tubes under the motor to the other side of the engine to avoid the booster. I will say this, there sure are a lot of trucks on the web that have made this conversion and I see they run the tube right along side the booster or on the outside of the frame..

It's been in the back of my mind but i figured I would deal with it once I started laying out my exhaust with the cab off. In fact once I start putting the chassis back together I may still have to make a change with the brake booster itself and move it further back under the bed to get it away from the heat. I have seen it done keeping the pedal assembly where it is, and then running a longer push rod back to the booster. In fact Progressive makes a kit. Heres a pic.

As far as progress on my truck I am kind of at a stand still. The last few weeks have been kind of rough around here with a death in the family and a boat load of snow. As of right now I have about 2ft. of snow laying on the ground and it has been wicked cold. I have been able to finish welding up some of the pin holes in the frame but that's about it. UPS delivered the paint for the frame last week (KBS Coatings). Unfortunately I don't have heat in the garage.

[egarage]

Thanks, looks like I may have to move mine back. BTW I used Langdon headers. Don

[whiskymaker]

ive thoroughly enjoyed reading this here thread of yours....

You American folk not only have some cracking trucks,but your houses are amazing too.....wish we had something like this here in Scotland..

Good luck with the rest of your build. Tis looking great so far..

[1963c-10]

very cool build!!!

[solidaxel]

Hey, thanks for the reply, I feel for you folks up in that parts of the states.
Every time the weather report comes on the TV we feel so guilty we have to turn the TV off, as we have had no winter this year and it has been great here for the last 2 1/2 months.
Sorry to hear about your loses, both of us have been there with our folks.
Stay in touch.

[solidaxel]

Do you have a web site for "Progressive........."
I am looking at power brake booster set ups for the 46

[paintman]

Originally Posted by solidaxel

Do you have a web site for "Progressive........."
I am looking at power brake booster set ups for the 46

ask and you shall receive.............
http://www.progressiveautomotive.com...ake-lines.html

[solidaxel]

Any more work on your truck?
Thanks for the link.
Exhaust/brakes/ transmission/K member........................... !
These 46"s are sure different than the AD frames!

[paintman]

Has anybody seen or heard from the Paintman??????????..... The Paintman?Hmmmm......OOO that guy, he's still around. He's still plugging away at it. It's just that he gets lazy, bored, or to busy to post the progress.

so the paintman got the frame painted as soon as the weather got nice enough. I used KBS and prepped the frame and suspension parts as per the instructions, and then just brushed the stuff on. I used their color called galvanized on the frame, and satin black on the running gear. It turned out alright I guess for a brush job. It certainly didn't lay out like a spray job like they claim in there advertisements.


As you can see I started to hang all the parts and pieces back on the frame. It sure is nice not having them laying around on the garage floor.


I also started to work on the brakes. I decided to go with thru frame bulkheads on all 4 corners instead of welding tabs.. At first I thought it would be somewhat of a challenge getting the holes in nice and straight, so I took a scrap piece of C channel I had laying around and made a half assed jig. I just put it on the drill press and bored a 1/4 inch hole all the way through to both sides. This would give me 2 holes perfectly aligned so I could bore the counter bit holes.
Clamp it to the frame and drill your holes in from each side of frame.

Perfectly aligned!

I then took the clamp and jig off and opened the holes up to 9/16 and bingo perfectly aligned!

I also put the gas tank back in so I could finish up the support straps and run the fuel line and mount the filter. I probably didn't have to make top and bottom straps but I was concerned about the stress on the bottom of the tank when it was full. If you look close you can see that everything kind of sandwiches together on the 2 cross members. I'm sure the tank has to come back out to mount the bed wood, so once I do the final install of the tank I will put rubber padding in between all the pieces to prevent chaffing.
I know I'm probably over thinking all this, but I guess it comes from my racing days. One thing is for sure. if I ever drive this truck down into the first turn full loud pedal, hook a rut, and barrel roll it out over the wall and into the hot dog stand....... at least I won't have to worry about the tank coming out.



In other 1946 pickup truck news........ I have been pondering what the hell I was going to do about my inner fender panels. If you go back to page one of the thread you will see the half assed AMC Pacer front end that was originally in the truck. Well who ever did the install realized the panels wouldn't clear the control arms and he would have to cut holes in the panels. Well instead of sitting down and taking his time and cutting 2 nice holes, it looks as if he just set them up against a tree and fired a bazooka at them. I had thought about trying to repair them but there's just to many angles and factory form marks I would of had to deal with. Fortunately I found a pretty decent stell set of Ebay for less than the cost of new fiberglass ones. So at least i got that going for me.


I also rebuilt the rear brakes. And of course here we go again, Who ever did the brakes the last time put the 2 small pads on the drivers side and the large ones on the passenger side I ordered a complete kit from...............

The kit comes pretty mush complete with all kinds of dodads, gizmos, and watchma callits.

[solidaxel]

Thanks for the updates, nice to see the frame in final color, how about the exhaust tabs are the welded on the frame?

[paintman]

Ok so I posted this question over on the suspension forum but I thought I would give it a try here as well.......................................
I may have shot myself in the foot a little bit. Does anybody know if there is a fitting available that will screw into my wheel cylinder that will allow me to screw a 3AN fitting to it for a flex line. I put these thru frame bulkheads in the frame with the hopes of some day switching to discs. but in the meantime I was hoping to use the same set up with my drums. I have looked around but can't seem to find the right thread size for the wheel cylinder. I have seen this done on hot rods and race cars with discs. Why can't I do this with drums?? The rear doesn't know whether it has discs or drums on it. I guess I can use the conventional hard line across the rear if I have to, I was just hoping for a cleaner look on the rear.
here's a pic of what I am looking for.............

[NEWFISHER]

Like this?

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/ea...FQqCfgodvyEAxQ

Love the build. I'm collecting parts for my 46 Suburban LS conversion and am trying to stay with the straight axle and mount an outboard style powersteering gear and the pitman arm is giving me head scratcher right now. Keep at it!

[tune_1]

Paintman I like what you have done. Keep up the work and the posts.


Dwight

[paintman]

Ok so the paintman has been taking a crash course in bending and flaring brake lines. I have to admit this has been worrying me for some time. You see, i have been a house painter and paper hanger for the last 30 years, AND I LIKE THINGS STRAIGHT, EVEN, AND NEAT, to the point that it borders on me being somewhat OCD. At first I thought I was going to go through about $500 worth of tubing until I got things looking just the way I wanted it.

First off having never done this, I didn't want to have to worry about trying to make flares that wouldn't leak so I bit the bullet and sprung for the good Eastman flaring tool.

I have to tell you this damn thing is worth every penny and then some. It makes perfect double 45's every time.

[paintman]

I started with connecting the master to the prop valve and worked my way back. I'm not sure I really needed the back flow valves as it looks as if the master is above the calipers and drums...but it's REAL close so I figured it wouldn't hurt to put them in.

Then I worked my way back to the rear. Seeing as how I went with through frame fittings in the back, I decided to use the crossmember to run the line over to the passenger side. Now I know you guys are going to ask why didn't I just line run twisted up, funky bent single line across the rear the traditional way. Remember.......... OCD

[paintman]

Then I shot 2 lines up to the front calipers.

And now it's just a matter of waiting for 2 more lengths of tubing from Inline tube to arrive to finish the piece that goes across the front cross member, and the small piece that connects the prop valve to the rear distribution block.

[paintman]

And of course on more thing to add. It looks as if the paintman is going to be a poster over on the "Go For A Ride?" thread as this came home with me and the family today. Although in a years time I don't think a 200 pound Great Dane will fit in the cab, I guess he'll just have to ride in the back

[63 & 64 Bowties]

can't wait to see this done. Any updates?

[paintman]

Originally Posted by 63 & 64 Bowties

can't wait to see this done. Any updates?

In my best Jack Nicholson voice...................You want updates?... You can't handle the updates! Actually things have been moving at a snails pace. But finally some head way. I had no idea a full blown blueprint on a motor would take so long but when you have to order a lot of custom sized parts it takes time.

The motor is just about wrapped up, just waiting on some custom push rods and then dyno day should be next week. I have to say the guys up at Larry's Power are meticulous as all hell. I can't say enough good things about them.They were even nice enough to make me up a custom timming pointer.



Looks so lonely sitting with all the big boys.......

[joliver33]

Awesome looking truck paintman. I got to say you have a great build thread with tons of detailed information and ideas. Looking forward to your next updates.

[paintman]

Getting closer...............Had some issues with the valve cover hitting the guide plates, but the guys up at the motor shop just machined a little material off the inside of the cover. Hopefully dyno day is this week.

[eagleuh1]

Beautiful engine . love the headers.

[CHIZZLER]

that is awesome. motor looks great.

[Koffer]

Sweet
I think if I took my 292 anywhere above 4k rpms I would be picking pieces of block and rods out of my leg when it shot thru the dog house