My 89 CC Dually: Double Wide

[lolife99]

Love the carrier bearing mount.
So much better than stacking 1/4" spacer plates like I did on my old '91 suburban.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by MTCK

That looks super slick. Who makes it?

Preision Metal Fab. It's intended as a drop-down bracket for lifted F250's/350's. I just inverted it & made new mounting flanges so I could bolt it onto my x-member.

http://www.pmfsuspension.com/Adjusta...cket_p_15.html

[MTCK]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Preision Metal Fab. It's intended as a drop-down bracket for lifted F250's/350's. I just inverted it & made new mounting flanges so I could bolt it onto my x-member.

http://www.pmfsuspension.com/Adjusta...cket_p_15.html

Cool, thanks. That's what I was thinking, this could work awesome in a lifted application...

[SCOTI]

Well..... One step forward, one step back, another step forward....

The adjustable carrier bearing bracket was close but no bueno. It was too tall. When placed in position, it was obvious it would have been the lowest item under the truck. Unfortunately, because of the length of the truck that's not a good thing to have something hang below the frame near the center-line of the truck. At 5" ride height, I have high centered several times already.

So revisions were needed. I trimmed the excess material off the bottom, plated it, & then added some gusseting. Shaved over 3" off the height which should keep it above the lower lip of the frame rail. The other possible issue will be clearance between the already installed exhaust (mufflers specifically). It appears close. Additional trimming to the side gussets might be required but I won't know unit we get it on the lift again.

[DblTrbl]

Is 5" your total aired up or is that just the comfortable level?

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by DblTrbl

Is 5" your total aired up or is that just the comfortable level?

5" is the ride height @ the front cab mount frame rail. It's a little higher @ the rear cab mount. I have the ability to raise it up a little higher (~2"). It will air out to where the frame under the cab is on the concrete.

Anything lower than that 5" ride height & the front tires find the fender lip quickly. Not bad when going straight but very noisy for turning. Haven't decided if I swap the a-arms for PB's narrowed units....

[Zane M]

I love the Dually!
Good luck with the '90!

[54earl]

Subscribing

[SCOTI]

Update dance....

I got the carrier bearing x-member cut-out last weekend & got my new adjustable set-up installed. Wound up having to do it @ my shop which sucked (cutting/drilling inches above me while flat-backing it vs standing under it w/more room to work with + a 2nd set of hands). I need to get a lift. Stuff like this is a PITA as you get older but I perservered.

Initial impressions? It does feel better. I've hit 75mph on the highway w/no severe vibrations but there is still vibration. Next up will be rebuilding the driveline (all new u-joints, a new C-bearing, & balancing).

After completing the C-bearing relocation (and while still on the stands), I went ahead & installed the latest sway-bar I purchased. It's weird..... the way RideTech's MuscleBar is built required me to utilize the factory sway-bar towers but w/the bar installed BETWEEN the frame & tower vs under it (or bolting it directly to my frame like I've done on all my other C10's). So I go to install this PB/Addco bar & viola'.... I was able to install in directly to the frame w/o needing the towers (which helps clearance). The end-links are not plumb which I'm not crazy about but they're not @ 45° either (the RT MB links weren't plumb either). I'm living w/them for now but will be monitoring them for expidited wear.

Another failure was also found the last trip up to my buddys work.... It seems the driver side rear Bilstein spit out the upper bushing (the bushing was still bolted in place on the shock tower/bridge x-member). But once the shock was loose & extended, it walked (leaned) over to a comfortable rest on the exhaust pipe (I now know where that damn burning plastic smell was coming from though ). So my buddy picked through some discarded shocks @ the F**d dealership & we found some late model F150 shocks were close enough to use until I got a replacement.

So now I'm re-focusing on finishing-up interior items that got pushed aside:

• Finish doors
• Install door striker bushings
• Fix the 'new' pass side door lock switch (broke already after a single use)
• Stereo
• Misc trim detailing

I ordered the needed materials to finish making the door bottom panels. I ordered a 2nd set of floor mats so I can have a DD set & a fresh set for any possible shows. Hopefully I'll have that stuff early next week. I'm going to get the stereo system plugged in (prob on Sat). It's all there, I just wanted to allow the stereo shop to terminate things @ the amp & dial the settings (for warranty purposes).

It looks like the front SloshTubz + fender close-outs will remain unfinished for now. I can't really take them to my buddy for finishing out the pass side mods (since I'm driving this thing daily & he already/still has my 90).

I'm trying to find another red/matching tailgate as it's already been the victim of a p-lot hit & run. I had to replace the blazer insert & install a new pass side lens which helped hide the damage but the gate is tweaked & you can't open/close it like normal. Bumper was tweaked as well but a replacement should be here tomorrow....

Otherwise things are chugging along. It's a thirsty ride (still averaging 8-ish mpg) but @ least fuel is cheap while I'm relying on it daily.

[aggie91]

Nice update, I wonder what caused the shock to spit out the bushing???

Are you going to LST next month? We are trying to get White Trash ready to take down there and already have a room, even if we do not take anything...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by aggie91

Nice update, I wonder what caused the shock to spit out the bushing???

Are you going to LST next month? We are trying to get White Trash ready to take down there and already have a room, even if we do not take anything...

Not sure on the shock but VERY surprised based on my previous experience w/the bushings in these shocks.

I do plan to be @ LST.

[SCOTI]

So..... Double Wide made it to the Lone Star Throwdown w/o issue. I went up for Saturday only & parked it on the spectator side since I knew I'd be stuck out in the back 40 (it would be a PITA when it came time to leave back to Dallas).

The extended drive only came w/one hiccup. It stalled just after I filled & started using the passenger side tank (about a mile from my shop). I restarted it on the drivers tank, switched it back to the pass side again, & it continued running so I hit the road. I'm glad I did the extra work for sound deadening. It makes for a much nicer driving experience.

It drank a bunch of gas which was anticipated but the driveline didn't fail which was a relief. Now it won't be needed for DD responsibilities so I'll get the shafts pulled out, freshened up, & balanced. The hunt is on for a 4l80e trans....

[68Timber]

Congrats on getting the vibrations sorted and getting your daily back. Will the 4L80E save you any money over the GV unit, or is it all about the same after factoring in driveshafts and controllers?

[aggie91]

the DD looks like it came out good after the repairs...

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by 68Timber

Congrats on getting the vibrations sorted and getting your daily back. Will the 4L80E save you any money over the GV unit, or is it all about the same after factoring in driveshafts and controllers?

GV = $2900 + shipping.
4l80e built by one of our better DFW area builders (Phoenix Transmissions) = $4k (including upgraded trans, shift kit, converter, & TCU).

With either choice, the driveshaft will need to be shortened so that's a wash. If I did the GV, I would definitely have to re-work the exhaust as my crossover tube is occupying the same real estate.

I definitely won't be doing the swap from a ROI perspective. I doubt my mpg's will drastically improve (might see a 1-2mpg increase.... MIGHT) so it would take a bunch-o-miles to recoup. I'm looking @ it strictly as an improvement of the driving experience w/the RPM reduction.

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by aggie91

the DD looks like it came out good after the repairs...

Yes sir. He nailed the patina.

[Chevy3+3]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

The motor is the OE assembly bored .030 w/some cast flat-tops vs dished pistons, a mild towing/RV cam, aluminum Edel TBI intake, 1 3/4" full length headers, dual 3"SS head pipes & crossover through 3" in/out turbo style mufflers to SS 2.5" mandrel tailpipes. A Harris Perf custom chip is in place to help optimize the combo....

Correct me if I'm wrong but based from what I see in the picture you did not hook up the coolant ports to preheat the TBI base pat of the intake? I am getting ready to install the same intake on my 454 TBI and debated whether or not to hook them up. What would be the pros vs cons running coolant through the intake?

Thanks

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Chevy3+3

Correct me if I'm wrong but based from what I see in the picture you did not hook up the coolant ports to preheat the TBI base pat of the intake? I am getting ready to install the same intake on my 454 TBI and debated whether or not to hook them up. What would be the pros vs cons running coolant through the intake?

Thanks

Correct. I opted to not use the pre-heat loop. I'm in TX so it's not like temps are below freezing alot. I can't put a solid number on it to say if it makes a huge (any?) difference.

I always try to keep temps on the lower side of operating range when possible & I know bypassing the coolant loop is a common mod when hot-rodding late model engines. I just figured doing so would only help an already bad situation (BBC's put of some serious heat).

[Chevy3+3]

Originally Posted by SCOTI

Correct. I opted to not use the pre-heat loop. I'm in TX so it's not like temps are below freezing alot. I can't put a solid number on it to say if it makes a huge (any?) difference.

I always try to keep temps on the lower side of operating range when possible & I know bypassing the coolant loop is a common mod when hot-rodding late model engines. I just figured doing so would only help an already bad situation (BBC's put of some serious heat).

They do have the ability to put off some heat! My truck got a little toasty when I had to pull my dads Kenworth T800 10 wheel dump rig home after he broke down. I had several long hills and the ol' 454 started getting pretty warm by the time I topped each hill, lol. That was a pretty decent load though.

I'm in Kansas and our winters can get chilly but I may leave them unhooked and if I experience a problem I can always hook them up later. Not having the hoses up there will make the intake area look that much cleaner also

[Gus350]

Looks killer sending it to the top so when I'm bored at work tommara I can find it to read the whole thread. Lol looking forward to it

[SCOTI]

Originally Posted by Gus350

Looks killer sending it to the top so when I'm bored at work tommara I can find it to read the whole thread. Lol looking forward to it

Thanks!

Not much done to it lately. I fabbed up a rear bumper/gravel guard for it several weeks ago. It def cleans up the tail end between the bumper & body vs sucking the bumper all the way up to the body. Since my hidden-hitch & the bumper brackets hindered moving the bumper enough to close the gap, I opted for the gravel guard approach.

[SCOTI]

Dang..... It's been a while. The ol' dually is still chugging away. It's got around 7k on the build w/o major issues since the first few weeks of driving.

I had an issue this summer where the rag-joint failed so it was replaced w/a Jeep Cherokee XJ shaft set-up. Then I got a RedHead steering box to replace the leaky original. While in there doing the work I noticed the driver side front brake line had some seepage & appeared to have been the victim of impact damage. I cycled things around & realized in the right circumstances the line could make contact w/the main x-member. I replaced the lines on both sides (w/a different OE routing arrangement) to eliminate the possibility & will also be making some steering stops since there aren't any on the lower PB arms. Everything else seems to be doing fine.

I investigated the GearVendors option but found the 'sump' on the unit would possibly be below or near the bottom of the frame rail which won't work for me w/it's lowered height. I have been watching for a cheap 4l80e to do an OD conversion but everything I've found is @ least the same price as a core. I was hoping to find one that functioned & allowed me to do the physical swap & just have the trans shop evaluate/alter as needed to reduce costs. In the meantime, the limited highway jaunts don't make it a top priority as it's fine for the mostly 'in town' driving.

Interior still looks new based on the feedback I get when it makes it out to local shows (C10's in the Park was the latest & Good Guys is this weekend). That makes me happy. It needs the A/C charged & going; sucks w/o it. It's also time for a thorough exterior detail on the OE paint but the guy I had lined up for it got hurt @ his full time job & has been side-lined. Need to get the rear tail-light sheet metal repaired & swap over the new/patina gate I got last year so that might become a paint (spot repair) project on the to-do list.

Peace....

[MTCK]

Truck looks great and glad it’s just going and going. Hope you can find a deal on that 4l80 you want.

[Devilman]

Any updates????

[SCOTI]

I get it out on a limited basis but that's about it.

Made a run to Summit Racing a few weeks ago (about 45min highway drive). Apparently lost the high-pressure side O-ring @ the steering box as it started spraying down the side of the body @ speed. Got the O-ring but haven't done the repair yet. Sucks because I got it all cleaned-up just to cruise around that night.

Went to take some measurements on Saturday of the Ridetech Muscle-Bar under the front end. Fired it up so I could crawl under w/a tape measure.... The front lifted but I got nothing from the rear. Compressor isn't coming on so now I need to investigate what's going on there.

Looks like we'll have some quality time soon