Starter options?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

71 C-10. 402 with 400TH & HEI distributor

This truck is primarily a factory restoration, but I don't mind an upgraded starter if called for.

I recall hearing a lighter starter is an option. Perhaps they're more efficient too. My cast iron block would appreciate a lighter starter, same with my body.

Is that right, and will an upgrade fit into a factory inspection cover as intended? Suggestions appreciated, thank you.

[Steeveedee]

I tossed the box just a couple of weeks ago so I don't have a part number, but I bought a Hitachi starter from the local speed shop when my starter went bad. Easy to pick up in one hand! It says "high performance" but has no warranty if used in a racing application. :huh: It does help to start the truck when it is warmed up, over the stock starter.

[a.c.ward]

I have a 402 in my truck as well, I have tried stock replacement (big) starters, aftermarket mini starters from JEGS and Summit, the best one I have found so far, easy to install and available at your local Autozone is:

https://www.autozone.com/batteries-s...arter/352107_0

[special-K]

Use a stock replacement from in the 88-98 range. They are high torque mini-starters.

[Mike C]

I’ve used the Hitachi style which is my preference for a bellhousing mount starter replacement since its non-supported nose goes right in without clearance issues. But like Tim says, the Vortec 5.7l era permanent magnet starters are great. 454 should be same just make sure you get them with the angled bolt holes for 168 tooth flywheel and straight across for 153. I’ve bought knock offs from Amazon as well as from RockAuto.

The only way I would even think about a vintage Delco starter would be a judged restoration or somebody was buying them by the pound...

[Ol Blue K20]

I used the new style starter. It sounds great and spins my 402 over really good. I got the brand new unit a O Reillys. I told the counter guy it was for a 96 Suburban with a 454. You also need to use the new style starter bolts too.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Appreciate the information, thank you.

[KQQL IT]

Been my favorite. 3 of them in service on 2 454's and 1 SbC

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

These little starters are cool as heck. I'm probably sending the Delco (88877121, thanks KQQLIT) back though, if I wanted clear metal I'd have ordered it.

It satisfied some curiosity though, nice to see it fits right into a 71 factory inspection cover. Might even be better fit than the old one. I read where people say use 4.25" starter bolts without mentioning starter type. IMO the 4.25" are for mini starters. The bolts I pulled with the old starter are 3.11/16". Go figure the mounting points on a mini starter is 1/2" deeper.

I didn't realize the starter gear only engages a flex plate on start ......I see where it's a good idea to check the spacing with a paper clip. How the heck is that possible?

[Steeveedee]

"Clear metal"?

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

"Clear metal"?

....Sorry, "metal" color silver. Part of it is gray case iron. Looks nice, I'm on the fence. Thought I was getting black like their picture.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 71CHEVYSHORTBED402

....Sorry, "metal" color silver. Part of it is gray case iron. Looks nice, I'm on the fence. Thought I was getting black like their picture.

OK. I was thinking maybe it was transparent aluminum.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by Steeveedee

OK. I was thinking maybe it was transparent aluminum.

Know where to get one?

[54Caddy]

Napa 4N-5110, then go to O’Reilly and get 2 678-107 dorman mounting bolts. Total about 175. Starter is new not a reman. Application is for a 94 c1500

[iriereggaeman]

I know this post is a bit old, but perhaps someone can chime in with experience on these mini starters. I read this a month ago, and purchased a Jegs ProStarter Small Block Chevy mini starter, Part number 555-10002 ; https://www.jegs.com/i/JEGS/555/10002/10002/-1


I have uploaded a video that identifies the current struggles. Please see here:

https://youtu.be/bi76utLAtA8

Any experience in this area? Thanks for reading/watching!

[PbFut]

You need to use the long shims to open up the clearance of the teeth. That will allow the starter gear to engage and disengage correctly. Is the round shim used to clear the base of the starter gear on the starter to the side of the flex plate gear when engaged?
I assume you have the correct tooth count 168 vs 153 matching starter to your plate.

[iriereggaeman]

Hello Leadfoot (!)

Yes, I have the 168 teeth flywheel, based on the dimension measurement.

The round shim is meant to provide more space between the top edge of the starter gear teeth, and the bottom (entry) point of the flywheel teeth. At least that's how it is described. I have the opposite problem...too much space.

I'll try the long shims to to see if they open up the clearance a bit. Thanks for the input.

[72SB]

Nice video OP showing "your" issue.

That starter looks like a SB/BB straight or offset hole mount...ala one size fits all.

I use a REMY gear reduction starter (aka mini starter) but they make 153 or 168 versions as well as with or without R terminal.

This cross reference chart shows the different part #'s. I got the 153 tooth one with R terminal for my 67 SBC from Rockauto for around $70. Plug and play install, no shims although the stocker did use the one long shim and one long cut in half.

[iriereggaeman]

Thanks 72SB!

I may take your route if I can't get this one to work. I picked up a couple extra shims at AutoZone to give me some spacing options. I hope to have some time tomorrow to try them out..

[mr.mud1]

hi Tony.just my 2 cents worth,when my truck was apart and on the way back together,i noticed the top of the solenoid,where it sits there under the pass side exhaust manifold, burnt right through,you could see the guts inside but the old thing started the engine?but of course not for long and i couldn't put it back together like that so i went to my local auto parts store man for a new solenoid.he talked me out of a handful of parts,said a new Wilson rebuilt was $77.00 and the parts i wanted were nearly that much,so off i went with a new one.re-installed it and went about finishing the truck.when it was time to start the fresh engine,it started but i wasn't long noticing,it wouldn't start warm so i did all the regular things,checked and re-checked timing,grounds,cables,charging rate and so on.everything seemed fine and when cool,it would take right off.i pulled the new starter off to have a look and when i layed the new on on the floor beside the old one,there were a bunch of things i noticed different and it was lighter.i wasn't impressed so i went back to the store,got a new solenoid,brushes,bushings,serviced the armature and rebuilt my original starter and i'm very happy with it.it starts,always first click of the key.i notice my 67 Impala wagon,with another one of these "new" rebuilt Wilson starters doing the same thing,doesn't start well when it's warm.i have the original starter from that car and plan to do my own sometime when they all come out of hibernation.i'm sure there are other ways to do it now and seems like the newer,lightweight starters do fine but for me,if i can salvage the old original,that's ok too,and remember to re-install the brace on the front of the starter to the block.it does weigh a ton.

[iriereggaeman]

Thanks Mr.Mud1!

[mr.mud1]

Originally Posted by iriereggaeman

Thanks Mr.Mud1!

Not a problem. Sorry to call you Tony,I saw 71shortbed402 in there and didn't realize this was an old post.doesn't change what I did to fix my starter.have a great day.Greg

[72c20customcamper]

Originally Posted by iriereggaeman

Hello Leadfoot (!)

Yes, I have the 168 teeth flywheel, based on the dimension measurement.

The round shim is meant to provide more space between the top edge of the starter gear teeth, and the bottom (entry) point of the flywheel teeth. At least that's how it is described. I have the opposite problem...too much space.

I'll try the long shims to to see if they open up the clearance a bit. Thanks for the input.

Did you check the gear clearance to the flywheel ? The new starter I put in (Powermaster) was to far away I had to mill the mount to get the .025-.035 gap .

Yours appears to be too tight . I would recommend not going by just the sound of the starter engagement. You need to verify the gap the round shim just moves the gear out further. I had to take mine out . I engaged the starter by juicing the solenoid for a few seconds with the main positive lug disconnected so it didn’t turn over. The instructions on my starter stated the bendix gear needed to be 50-75 % engaged to the flexplate .

[chevmn]

I replaced bearings (bushings), brushes, and cleaned up the factory starter on my 72 402 truck and the truck only had 62,000 original miles, but I continued to have starting issues after getting it to the point I was moving it around, and finally got fed up, and bought one of the new smaller starters for a mid 90's 454 Surburban. So far, so good, and it spins over much faster than the old starter. With shipping from Rock auto it was under $100. Pretty sure the issue with the old starter is simply in the armature, but not something I was going to attempt, and there are no starter repair shops in my area, and it is very likely the cost would exceed what I paid. I have read far too many horror stories on reman starters and I am not fond of being left stranded with one that failed early in its life. Time will tell I guess. One thing no one thinks about is the ground path. Years ago I fought with starter issues on an older tractor. Somone asked if I cleaned up the mating surfaces, and mount bolts (never gave it a thought). Many paint the block, and/or starter and never think that the other side of the circuit is where starter mounts, and if it is painted or dirty, you may as well paint the cable ends as well.....I cleaned the starter and block, and no more issues with the tractor starting.

[iriereggaeman]

Thanks for the feedback, 72c20customcamper and chevmn.

I was able to get up under bigyella today and learned a bit more.

Initially thinking the same as you 72c20customcamper, that I didn't have enough clearance between the pinion and the flywheel, I purchased, and added a couple size-variation shims, to no avail! I came to realize that I have the opposite problem...too much space. I removed the shim, and went back to a shimless install, then captured this video.

https://youtu.be/h0sBq31tRaA

I don't have the ability to machine the starter to get into the proper clearance of 0.020-0.025 as specified by Jegs. (what did you use to do this Mark?) I think I'm out of options with this particular starter, unless someone has a brilliant alternate idea.