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Old 05-31-2019, 04:46 AM   #101
Matt_50
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Re: AD wiring

And dsraven, when you mentioned the crimp connectors... I was unclear if you prefer the tube type, no seam connector or just telling me to watch out for a almost invisible seam.

If I can get a good connection with the tube type and do not need to worry about seam orientation that would be great. But I will get the other type if it's better.
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Old 05-31-2019, 04:53 AM   #102
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Re: AD wiring

Followed Mark's advice, got a set of relays with 14 gauge plugs coming in the mail. Inline fuses would be easier to replace but I'm guessing fusible links are not a common item to replace huh?

Followed dsraven's summit link and found a 18 gauge fusible link roll. This is correct for the relays right?
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Old 05-31-2019, 05:19 PM   #103
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Re: AD wiring

I would say try to get the tube connectors, that connect 2 wires end to end, with no seam. it is hard to find the ring connectors with no seam so try to find some with what looks like a fused seam, they will be less likely to spread apart at the seam when crimping, taker a look at the crimp when done and tug the wire to ensure the crimp is gonna hold before shrink tubing it.
honestly, I am not a fan of fusible link wire when you can get a fusible link in a plug and play scenario. just me though.
check out automotive sound sites ot go to the nearest high end car audio shop and ask what they have. these would possibly be a better choice that a wire style. easy to see and replace.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07JPHW8M6...0-41568e48106d


https://www.amazon.com/Audio-Stereo-...V6T43MDH001JM0
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Old 05-31-2019, 06:37 PM   #104
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Re: AD wiring

Those look nice, and easy to replace too. I'm searching fuses vs fusible links.

What I'm finding is that fusible links can take the sudden amp draw and still be ok... fuses go off to quick to put in place of a link. But a post I found mentioned slow fuses...


Back to your above links. Would these act as fuses or links?

What do you personally have in your wiring harness?
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Old 06-01-2019, 02:46 AM   #105
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Re: AD wiring

This may be a dumb question...

Are relays ever used for rear lights? I ask because it seems all the front ones are.

Next, you mentioned LEDs take so little draw that relays arnt really needed right? But it's good practice..
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Old 06-01-2019, 03:30 AM   #106
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Re: AD wiring

Well I'm still looking up connectors anbd terminals. Mouser wants a 100 min on each one I clicked On!


I came across this, mentioned copper grazed core, is that good?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F173000695217
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Old 06-01-2019, 02:00 PM   #107
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Re: AD wiring

I replaced the wiper arm gaskets so hopefully that is the last of the cab leaks.

Also spent 3 hours this morning on the EZ wiring harness. Had it strung out all over the living room and chased down, tagged and grouped the wires.

How do I safely tuck away unused circuits, like cruise control, power door locks and windows ect..? I will use wiper motor and heater a/c eventually.
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Old 06-01-2019, 08:13 PM   #108
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Re: AD wiring

After talking to Mark at MAD electrical, I went back over by diagram and cleaned it up.

This is the under the hood part... what do you guys think?
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Old 06-03-2019, 12:25 PM   #109
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Re: AD wiring

Just learned about UL and CSA listing on electrical stuff. Maybe now I can weed out the junk from quality in my searches without buying 100s of extras lol.
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Old 06-03-2019, 01:17 PM   #110
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Re: AD wiring

I recently read about using a remote relay for the starter, so it doesn't get hot. Is that what the Ford relay is for? You can bypass the relay on the starter if that is the case.
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Old 06-03-2019, 01:20 PM   #111
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Re: AD wiring

I want to use the ford relay to control the starter solenoid so I use less amps under dash and in ignition switch. Plus, I shouldn't have to worry about stuff like starter run on or a hot wire so close to exhaust right?
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Old 06-03-2019, 06:15 PM   #112
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Re: AD wiring

I am not an automotive electronics specialist, I am an electronics technician interested in automotive electronics.
I have read that a remote relay can be used to help fix the hot start problem where the starter is sluggish, or won’t turn when hot.
The typical starter has a terminal for the battery, and a terminal for the switch. When the switch terminal is energized it pulls the plunger that does two things. The plunger connects the battery to the starter motor, and engages the bendix. When the key is turned it energizes a coil, a large current is required for an instant to get the plunger moving, once the battery and starter motor connect, a second coil holds the plunger. The current in the first coil decreases for the duration of the cranking.
There is no way to not use the first coil, since it is required to get the plunger moving to connect the battery and starter motor. This leads me to believe that the hot start problem is caused by two things. A hot starter solenoid, and reduced voltage at the switch terminal. The reduced voltage at the switch terminal is the constant, it is only a problem when the solenoid gets hot. Since the solenoid can not be relocated, the wiring can be modified to eliminate the voltage drop.
This is where the remote starter relay can be used. Assuming the voltage drop is caused by excessive length of wire, from the battery through the firewall to the ignition switch, back through the firewall to the starter solenoid switch terminal. Instead, wire from the battery to the relay to the starter solenoid switch terminal. Control the remote starter relay with the wire that was connected to the starter solenoid switch terminal. Leave the battery cable from the battery to the battery terminal on the starter solenoid. This method would require a remote relay capable of say 40 Amps like the cube style.
Another way would be to use the remote relay on the battery cable, have one cable going to the battery terminal on the starter solenoid, and use a jumper between the battery terminal and the start terminal on the solenoid. This method requires the hold current and the starter motor current to go through the remote relay contacts, so the 200 Amp can style.
I modified your drawing on that part of the circuit to show two ways you could wire it.
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Old 06-03-2019, 07:25 PM   #113
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Re: AD wiring

The ignition wire you erased in both set ups, is only the one wire used?
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Old 06-03-2019, 08:00 PM   #114
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Re: AD wiring

This made me look up the wiring some more. Would this be correct?




There is a coil wire in my EZ harness. Would I use this for the distributor? Does anyone have the wiring diagram for that?
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Old 06-04-2019, 04:48 PM   #115
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Re: AD wiring

Went to Napa to get some prices.

2ga wire- bat to engine

2ga wire- bat to ford solenoid

2ga wire- ford solenoid to starter

10ga wire- ford solenoid to 1st terminal block

8ga wire- from 1st terminal block to 2nd block

He said he couldn't crimp ends onto the 8 and 10ga too.

90 bucks before tax.

Seems a bit much...
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Old 06-08-2019, 07:01 AM   #116
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Thumbs up Re: AD wiring

Hey just want to Thank you for the thread , learning alot just lurking
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Old 06-10-2019, 02:02 PM   #117
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Re: AD wiring

This task is in my future. Are you leaving battery under floor or moving it ti engine bay?
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Old 06-12-2019, 01:00 AM   #118
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Re: AD wiring

Thanks oldroy, I wanted all my wiring posts and questions in one spot. I still have a lot to figure out. I plan to loosely run the wires where they all need to go. Not sure if i need to with a kit, but i want to measure the wire lengths and amp demands of each component/circuit.

Marty I moved my battery to inner fender, if you go to the last page or one just previous, on my build signature you can see what I did. Here's a pic when I first did it. I've cleaned it up, painted, sealed, and drilled two small holes for drainage.
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Old 06-12-2019, 01:02 AM   #119
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Re: AD wiring

Can anyone tell me if I should get a 3 position ignition switch or a 4? I'm not sure I see the advantage either way.
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Old 06-12-2019, 09:43 AM   #120
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Re: AD wiring

Overthinking again...

3 way switch. Off, acc, on.

4 way switch, off, acc, on, start.

On means all electronics, I could use my turn signals, when I push brake pedal lights cone on right? Acc, means stuff like only the radio cones on.

Lol I think I was thinking on, meant start I guess.

So if you are not using a foot stomp, get a 4 way.
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Old 06-12-2019, 07:25 PM   #121
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Re: AD wiring

Ordered a headlight switch, a ignition switch, dual wall glue heat shrink tubing, and I got my connectors in. Got my Klein tool in a while back too.

What have you guys used for indicator lights? Like for turn signals and lights are still with key off?
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Old 06-13-2019, 05:10 PM   #122
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Re: AD wiring

When looking for indicator lights... I found that using "pilot" as a key word gives good options.

Ordered a set of three. One blue, 2 green.
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Old 06-13-2019, 06:01 PM   #123
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Re: AD wiring

I'm hoping my factory speedometer can be cleaned up and it works. I hope to buy some pretty pricey gauges later on. They will be something I look at a whole lot lol so I've decided to spend more and be happy. In the meantime, I still need gauges so I ordered this set of 3. I figure the gauges will come in handy on other projects too.

Also ordered a fan, a brake light switch, and the ford solenoid.
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Old 06-14-2019, 02:49 AM   #124
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Re: AD wiring

I really wish this EZ mini kit had a bracket that came with it. But I made one instead.
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Old 06-14-2019, 10:33 AM   #125
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Re: AD wiring

the wiring diagram in the post above with the ford starter relay and the extra ignition wire is so the coil gets power when the starter is used. the coil will get a full 12 volts. some systems cut the coil power down through a ballast resistor during normal operation and this is to extend ign coil life. during start up these systems use that ign wire to feed full power to the coil for a better spark during the start up cycle. you should check the wiring diagram for the coil style you are using to see if it supposed to get battery power during the normal run cycle or run a ballast resistor during the normal run cycle. newer style Fords would simply not connect a wire to that terminal but still use the same solenoid.
for the different gauge of wire you are using it might be to your advantage to invest in a hammer style crimper for the larger gauge crimp on ends. like battery terminals etc. also some different colored shrink tube to easily denote the positive cables and the negative cables. most places that will make a cable for you use these tools of some sort and the guy doing it is no smarter than the rest of us. if he learned it you can too. try a starter-alternator rebuild shop for larger diameter cables, they usually stock the stuff and are reasonable in their pricing for building custom sized/length battery cables.
for the ignition switch it sort of depends on the system you want to run. the switch with no starter position are for the vehicles that still use the "step on the starter" pedal or a separate push button starter switch. normally the park lights, cig plug (sometimes), brake lights and 4 way flashers get power all the time with the ignition on or off. accy that draw less amps and will tend to not kill the battery in a few minutes, like stereo, get power in the accy mode, everything gets power in the on mode. most stuff is shut down for the start mode except for the ign system, fuel pump and starter, just what it actually needs to run so no other circuits will steal battery power away from the starter.
for me, I use welding cable for the big battery cables because it has more strands than most battery cables do so it is more flexible. if running a long cable from, say, the rear of a vehicle to the front sometimes the stiffer wire is better because it doesn't sag so easily. i use copper crimp on lugs, I have a hammer style crimper for the big stuff (that can also be used in a vice if you have 3 arms) but have also used the crimpers that look like a set of bolt cutters. both give decent results. I worked with an old guy who, when done the hammer crimp, would usually tip the connector up so the cable is vertical above the connector and heat the connector just enough to allow some applied solder to run down inside the connector but not so much that it would run/wick up inside the cable sheathing and make that area stiff. either way, when done the process, the shrink tube is brought down over the connector to cable joint and shrunk down. use the thick double walled tube because it contains a hot glue inside that will stick to the components and keep the area insulated and dry.
thats just me though, it's your project so do it like you want it. larger gauge wire is better than smaller, marginally sized, wire so if you decide to upgrade to a circuit with more draw, like add a component later, the wire will still handle it.
below is a link to a site that explains the different styles of crimps and when/where to use them. which are better and why etc. have you also tried an electrical supply outlet that wholesalers would use? normal wholesalers also sell regular stranded copper wire as well, not just the single strand "house" wire. maybe a little cheaper. automotive stereo install shops are also another source for cables, fuse blocks, etc. welding supply places sell cable off a roll usually and sometimes sell the terminals as well. it is a service for them so sometimes it is a little cheaper because they want the welder to also pick up some other supplies while there for the cable.

https://www.powerandcables.com/cable...s-of-crimping/

https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/...TYLE/p/GRO84-9

https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/en/...WG/p/WSW13H894
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