55.2-59 Accelerator/Throttle Pedal?

[SideStepper]

What universal accelerator/throttle pedal (cable/firewall mount) would you recommend for my 55.2 pick-up truck? Are there any good products out there other than the expensive Lokar line? Also, it appears that these old truck's firewalls are somewhat limited in having a good flat area to mount an aftermarket pedal assy. Any advice is appreciated!

[nvrdone]

I dont have an aftermarket throttle linkage in my '49.I used a bell crank mounted on the firewall with 2 lengths of all thread, one hooked to the pedal and one hooked to the carb.
Has worked great for many years.
Classic industries has a kit for 55-59 trucks that also works well on the AD trucks

[mr48chev]

I've got a clone of the lokar unit that I picked up on Ebay several years ago. How well it will work I don't know.

Similar to this one but mine came with the cable.

On a TF you should be able to do the whole thing with Factory TF V8 linkage if it has a carb on it. I think I had to go scrounge the pieces at the wrecking yard for my 57 panel when I bought it. I can't remember what we did to get it on the trailer but we did drive it on and then I had to fix the linkage.

[nvrdone]

did you tie a cord to the carb to use as a had throttle!? Ask me how I know about that one!!

[leegreen]

factory squarebody pedal is pretty adaptable as you can rebend the arms both sides of the mount
post 6 here shows one https://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/...d.php?t=504681

there are aftermarket aluminum versions, but those would be less adaptable since the aluminum arms will not be as forgiving to bend

[mr48chev]

A gas pedal has to be comfortable to drive with for distances or the truck or any other vehicle will sit in the garage far more than it gets driven.

I've told the story before but back in the 80's or 90's during a redo I put a gas pedal in my 48 and pulled it back out the next day. It was so uncomfortable to drive with that 5 miles was just too much .

[SideStepper]

Thanks to all for your advice. My 55.2 truck is a carbureted engine (with automatic trans) that I would like to update from the old-style rod linkage to a smoother cable set-up. There is no question that the Lokar products are good, but sorry I not willing to spend $300+ dollars on a gas pedal & cable. My project has always been targeted as LOW BUGET build from day one. Leegreen, I appreciate your suggestion of using a "bend to fit" square body pedal assembly. I rather do that, then spend needless dollars for a simple solution. That reminds me of another great example of spending needless dollars ....... billet hood hinges.

[leegreen]

Here is a picture of one in my '52. This came from about a '78 c10, but I think the same basic pedal was used for many years.
I had to modify the mount a bit, I forget the specifics, but I think it was drilling out so I could use bolts in all three holes and cutting some stud off the back. Then I bent everything to get the pedal where I wanted it and to line the upper end up behind the carb (inline 6) .
The C10 cable was used, plastic sheath from firewall to mount on intake, cut to length. Cable shortened to fit, I just wrapped it around the throttle arm and back through a crimp made from a short section of nichrome brake line. if that ever fails I'll make a little crimp on clevis more like factory linkage, but I expect it will last for a long time as is.

It did take a little measuring and head scratching to get pedal location and resting height, full carb travel and pedal travel to floor to all agree, but I think you face that even with the fancy billet stuff.



It would not be hard to fabricate an entire assembly along these lines, some rod, sheetmetal and a pedal from something. There is just some plastic at the pivot in the mount

[mr48chev]

That is one I missed and would have been a whole lot better from the looks of it. I think I have a 76 Mustang II pedal in mine now. I bought what was a nice looking 76 Fastback that was even white with blue stripes that I was going to put the engine from my Bobcat wagon in but we discovered that the whole chassis on it was rusted out and My students and I scrapped it. I've still got the crossmember and suspension out of it out in the pile.

[regan56]

comfort is the thing here. im also considering the floor mounted ione, but now that i think about it, i drive with my heel on the floor, in one spot (as i suspect many are). that setup looks like it would be counter-intuitive to what I'm used to as i would need to push the top end down..doesn't seem like a good thing for comfort.

im now leaning towards the "hanging" pedal...

[Stepside Jim]

I must admit, I used the same set up as leegreen posted. I did however make a base that I welded in place that brought the pivot away from the firewall?floor about 1/2" to 3/4".

I think it gave some pivotational movement for the linkage and for the carpet to fit without binding anything also.

I also welded the nuts within the base so there would be no nuts to hold later or bolts hanging under the floor.

[1project2many]

I actually used the original pedal and bellcrank for my Crossfire conversion. I tried a mechanical linkage with a second bellcrank but I couldn't get the geometry right. Eventually I fabricated a bracket for the pedal end of the cable housing and created a cable socket in the OE linkage for the cable using this trick .

I have used OE GM pedals like the one posted by leegreen many times. It's ok to heat the linkage to red hot and bend the linkage as needed. If the top is too long just cut it off then heat and hammer the rod flat where you need the cable to install. Drill a hole in the flat and cut a slot in the side and you've restored the OE cable attachment.

[leegreen]

I was aware of people building bases for that style pedal when I made my setup, but for me it did not seem needed. But I bent the arms in a few places to get what I wanted, so maybe accomplished the same thing.

I did not try to allow for carpet, I just bolted the mount on top of the rubber flooring I used. So it looks just like the picture but with rubber flooring. That might not suit everyone's build plan

Comfort seems fine. I already had my seat, wheel, shifter and the other pedals done, then I put the gas pedal where my foot wanted to be.

[mr48chev]

Personal comfort has a lot to do with how much and how far you drive any rig and I am not just talking push seats, a cup holder and tilt wheel and heat/ac.

Years ago I had a buddy who trailered his hot rod everywhere behind his pickup and I even saw him offer to let a guy drive it one time when the guy badgered him about trailering and not driving. Your foot was up on top of the transmission hump to work the gas pedal and you worked the brake with your left foot as there was no way to move your right foot easily. The body was channeled down to where there was about four inches hanging below the frame. Last I heard, he had sold the car and the guy who bought it was raising the body up several inches and building a new floor.

If the truck or hot rod is comfortable to drive you find reasons to drive it a lot more even if it is just to the supermarket for a few things. If it isn't comfortable you find excuses to leave it at home.