Backyard Cummins

[C20scott]

You can compensate for skill by thinking about something forever. Which is what I do!

[HSRACER]

Great work so far. I will be watching going forward

[C20scott]

Patched back the high hump with sheet metal. Shaped the metal with a sledge hammer.

Cost to fix was less than 10$, considering my labor is free.

[C20scott]

Dynamat/dynaliner combo on the rear of the cab. Sealed around the hump with foam, cleaned, new carpet.

The carpet is about 2" too long and 1" too wide. I think i can make it work though.

[C20scott]

Previous work that was not posted.
-Duplicolor visors/interior accessories
-New glovebox liner
-new hvac ducts
-new cig lighter
-new ignition
-new LED dome light

I mounted seats and wired my electric fans tonight, no pictures though due to the darkness. Shooting for a test drive late tomorrow!!

[Dieselwrencher]

Looking nice man! I'd like to dynamat the inside of mine too.

[C20scott]

I pushed for a test drive yesterday, but it didnt happen. Pictures of progress to come once i feel confident again.
-Driveshaft installed
-Gauge cluster installed(problems with 2 gauges)
-more wiring buttoned up
-Brakes dont work

I am now able to sit in the cab, and turn the engine on/off with the finalized ignition source. All Gauges work in my instrument cluster accept for the Tach, and Boost. Tach because i am researching its voltage requirements, Boost becuase i have no idea.

I was not able to test drive because my brakes do not work. Let me precursor the symptoms with this info.
-Pedal Linkage, Hydrobooster, Master Cylinder, PSteering pump, and all lines are all brand new.
-Pedal Linkage has more than enough travel
-HB and Psteering pump are fully bled and air free
-All brake lines are air free
-Brake shoes,drums,cylinders worked fine before the new system was installed

with the engine running, the pedal smoothly bottoms out to the floor, and does not return on its own. No brake fluid is forced out of the lines during this action.

It must be something simple. Is there supposed to be a pushrod connecting the HB to the MC? This did not come with my new HB unit when i purchased, and I cannot find them for sale anywhere either. i will be digging through all of NAPA's boxes this weekend to find out.

Help.

[C20scott]

Dieselwrencher, i finally clicked on your "Tired of Spark Plugs" link and found something that i thought didnt exist.. My build would have been alot easier with everyone elses to spy on haha.

How do i move this thread over there?!

[Dieselwrencher]

Originally Posted by C20scott

Dieselwrencher, i finally clicked on your "Tired of Spark Plugs" link and found something that i thought didnt exist.. My build would have been alot easier with everyone elses to spy on haha.

How do i move this thread over there?!

I'll contact one of the mods in this area and have them move it to the Diesel Conversions area. Keep up the great work, Ryan!

[gerfunken]

Originally Posted by C20scott

I pushed for a test drive yesterday, but it didnt happen. Pictures of progress to come once i feel confident again.
-Brakes dont work

I was not able to test drive because my brakes do not work. Let me precursor the symptoms with this info.
-Pedal Linkage, Hydrobooster, Master Cylinder, PSteering pump, and all lines are all brand new.
-Pedal Linkage has more than enough travel
-HB and Psteering pump are fully bled and air free
-All brake lines are air free
-Brake shoes,drums,cylinders worked fine before the new system was installed

with the engine running, the pedal smoothly bottoms out to the floor, and does not return on its own. No brake fluid is forced out of the lines during this action.

It must be something simple. Is there supposed to be a pushrod connecting the HB to the MC? This did not come with my new HB unit when i purchased, and I cannot find them for sale anywhere either. i will be digging through all of NAPA's boxes this weekend to find out.

Help.

Yes, there is supposed to be a pushrod connecting the HB & MC.. it's a junkyard treasure that you can find on dang near any HB brake set-up that GM runs. I pulled two, one from a 90-ish truck and one from an Astro van, both were identical, and I paid about $10 for each. If you need, I can put one in an envelope if you require, as I think I've got the second out in the garage somewhere.

[C20scott]

gerfunken, this has been one of the hardest parts to find for me so far. No junkyards here have a full size chevy HB unit, and I haven't been sure if other pushrods will fit. Also, these parts do not exist at shops, or online parts distributors.

My unit is out of a 90's chevy 2500/3500 chevy, JD7 brake code. I found the below website that seems to stock pushrods, retainers, and springs. Which length/ end type do I need? I saw your pictures of the pushrod for your truck, is that the one I need? Measure the length for me please!

http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=40_16[/URL]

[gerfunken]

Originally Posted by C20scott

gerfunken, this has been one of the hardest parts to find for me so far. No junkyards here have a full size chevy HB unit, and I haven't been sure if other pushrods will fit. Also, these parts do not exist at shops, or online parts distributors.

My unit is out of a 90's chevy 2500/3500 chevy, JD7 brake code. I found the below website that seems to stock pushrods, retainers, and springs. Which length/ end type do I need? I saw your pictures of the pushrod for your truck, is that the one I need? Measure the length for me please!

http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=40_16[/URL]

I'll see if I can get a picture of it today for you.

[gerfunken]

Originally Posted by C20scott

gerfunken, this has been one of the hardest parts to find for me so far. No junkyards here have a full size chevy HB unit, and I haven't been sure if other pushrods will fit. Also, these parts do not exist at shops, or online parts distributors.

My unit is out of a 90's chevy 2500/3500 chevy, JD7 brake code. I found the below website that seems to stock pushrods, retainers, and springs. Which length/ end type do I need? I saw your pictures of the pushrod for your truck, is that the one I need? Measure the length for me please!

http://www.tallonhydraulics.com/store/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=40_16[/URL]

Here you go....





It's 3 1/8"

[C20scott]

Hope one of these works. I found a website that sells pushrods, no indication of make/model compatibility though..

Thanks for the help Scott, will keep you posted on results.

[C20scott]

Finally got the driveshaft in, built by SouthBay Driveline in the bay area. Probably the best service that i have had at any automotive shop. short turnaround on building it also.

Double CV up front, 1410 yoke in rear, 3.5" Diameter.

Also, wired up Speedo and Reverse light switch.

[C20scott]

8$ shift boot fits like a dream.

Picture of dash. Bezel is not mounted yet still doing work inside there..

[C20scott]

Exhaust routed through fenderwell. This is going to work out perfect, and give me alot more space to work with between the frame rails. I am keeping it tucked as close to the frame as possible to prevent the possibility of the tire rubbing during a turn.

[C20scott]

#1: Junction boxes and master fuse mounted.

#2: alternator wired up using a Ford external voltage regulator. I dont want to post info on how to wire this until im sure that it works.

#3: I need to spend a few hours cleaning this area up. Eventually i think i am going to find a boot of some sort to hide all of these wires. You can also see the relay for the fuel on/off solenoid, and the solenoid for the grid heater.

[C20scott]

I havent really posted any "overall" pictures lately. Here are some..

Hopefully it will be painted 1 color in the near future. I will be driving it around as soon as i get this pesky brake pushrod.

[Roadhouse]

This thread is awesome and very helpful. Thanks OP.

[Dieselwrencher]

Nice work and the drive shaft looks really nice. What kind of boost do you think you'll be running? If it's over 30psi, you're going to be wanting to redo your intercooler piping or you're going to be spending alot of time putting boots back on. I'd try to eliminate any un needed boots especially in a 90* form.

[ryanroo]

just went through the thread. looks good!

[C20scott]

I want to run my boost at the upper end of the safe range for stock headgaskets. Hopefully maxing out right around 35PSI. I don't plan on even messing with boost settings or piping until I have this thing on the road.

What problems have you had with your connections? I have a few un-flared ends in my piping system, as I needed to cut lengths in the field for mockup purposes. I plan on replacing these, but would prefer to only do it once. Im thinking I eliminate as many connectors as possible with pre bent tubing, and maybe upgrade to some thicker duty boots.

Also, this engine vibrates like no other during low RPM, startup, and stop. How many nuts and bolts have you lost due to the harmonics of the cummins?

[ryanroo]

Originally Posted by C20scott

I want to run my boost at the upper end of the safe range for stock headgaskets. Hopefully maxing out right around 35PSI. I don't plan on even messing with boost settings or piping until I have this thing on the road.

What problems have you had with your connections? I have a few un-flared ends in my piping system, as I needed to cut lengths in the field for mockup purposes. I plan on replacing these, but would prefer to only do it once. Im thinking I eliminate as many connectors as possible with pre bent tubing, and maybe upgrade to some thicker duty boots.

Also, this engine vibrates like no other during low RPM, startup, and stop. How many nuts and bolts have you lost due to the harmonics of the cummins?

the fewer boots you have the better. the steeper the angle the more likely to blow them off. 90s have a tendency to go from what im told. i dont know how much issue you will have at 35psi, but every boot is another place to have a potential leak.

is the fuel system purged? and do you know what rpm the engine is idling at? if there is still air in the system it will idle rough, and start hard. if it is idling slow, it would also shake worse than you might expect. every cummins ive been around shakes pretty decent when you shut it down.

[71chevystep4x4]

After looking through your build, I really want to get out in the garage and do some welding!!! Your an awesome fabricator.