Matt's 56 3600 4X4 Build

[Purcell69]

Originally Posted by mvitale27

Cool info on the TC brackets. Haven't got much done this week as I have been doing some work to my Silverado. I was on my way home from the parts store with a CV axle, u-joints for the front driveshaft, front pads and rotors when I blew a brake line. Managed to pump the brakes enough to get it home. The line that had a major leak was one from the MC to the ABS unit. As I was making the new line, I noticed most of the front brake lines are corroded and very fragile so I decided to replace all of them. $64 and 6 hours later I am half done. Setbacks!

Yikes!

A long, long time ago, the rear hose between my frame and the rear axle blew out on my 1978 Power Wagon while I was stationed in SoCal. The truck was full-time 4wd, and I was in a pinch, so I ran a trim screw down the middle of the broken hose and held it in place with a hose clamp until I could get to the parts store and replace the line. Front brakes, manual trans, 4wd to slow the rear and the parking brake if necessary. There was no crisis because I knew what I was driving and left room around me.

Hardlines are a different animal though, especially with ABS. I never used to hear about hardlines corroding through, but it seems to be a more common occurrence now. I've seen some late model trucks where the hardlines rusted through before the sheet metal. Anything to save a few pennies of profit.

-Joe

[mvitale27]

Originally Posted by Purcell69

Yikes!

A long, long time ago, the rear hose between my frame and the rear axle blew out on my 1978 Power Wagon while I was stationed in SoCal. The truck was full-time 4wd, and I was in a pinch, so I ran a trim screw down the middle of the broken hose and held it in place with a hose clamp until I could get to the parts store and replace the line. Front brakes, manual trans, 4wd to slow the rear and the parking brake if necessary. There was no crisis because I knew what I was driving and left room around me.

Hardlines are a different animal though, especially with ABS. I never used to hear about hardlines corroding through, but it seems to be a more common occurrence now. I've seen some late model trucks where the hardlines rusted through before the sheet metal. Anything to save a few pennies of profit.

-Joe

Yea, almost all the hard lines in the truck were corroded. I ended up replacing every brake line in the truck because everytime I touched a line to move it slightly they would just break. What crap they used in this thing. I used the NiCorp nickel copper mix that is supposed to "never rust." Also had to replace the ABS pump because all the fittings were stripped out but I got one locally for $70. Should be back on the road today and then I can get back on the '56.

[mvitale27]

Sorry, no pics for this update. Front and rear end refreshes are almost complete. Will be putting the axles back under the frame this weekend.

I am trying to get most of the truck back into the garage before the cold rolls in so after this I will be finishing the 700r4 (needs tq converter, wiring and paint) and np208 (needs gasket and paint) so I can get my powertrain on the frame. Then I will be getting a gas tank and doing my fuel plumbing. On that note, Dave from Hollister Road was EXTREMELY helpful in researching a mustang tank set up. He took it upon himself to figure out which tank set up would best fit my needs (looking to have a rear fill, carb pick up and mount it under the frame rails to avoid moving the crossmembers and thus weakening rear spring support).

Once all that is done, I will be repairing my floor pans and front mounts on the cab so I can drop it back on the frame and have a warm place to work this fall and winter!

[mvitale27]

Here are some pics of the front 10 bolt and rear 14 bolt rebuilds. Both are from a '78 K20.

Front Corporate 10 bolt 8 lug w/ 8.5" ring gear. 3.73 open
This is the "newer" style with the internal/one-piece hub and rotor.

Ring and pinion were in great shape. I replaced both axle shaft u-joints, all 4 ball joints, inner wheel seals, spindle bearings and seals. Repacked all the wheel bearings and lubed the Superwinch lockers. Had the rotors cut for free at the tech school I just graduated from and got some new medium-duty semi-metallic pads. All old gear oil was flushed out and refilled with fresh 80w90. Axle housing, knuckles, backing plates, calipers, etc. all have been painted and reassembly of the front end is almost complete.

[mvitale27]

Rear Corporate 14 bolt Full-Floating 8 lug w/ 10.5" ring gear and 13" drums. 3.73 posi

Just started the tear down on this last night. Got the axle shafts out and one drum off so far. Other one is seized like a mofo. Wheel bearings appear to be in good shape so I should be able to get away with wheel seals, cutting the drums, and new shoes hardware. Haven't looked at the ring and pinion yet. That will be next after finishing reassembly of the front end.

All the leaf springs are being torn down, sanded, grinded, painted, new center bolts, shackles, and bushings.

[marc55]

Looks good. I am not looking forward to looking into my diffs.

[mvitale27]

Originally Posted by marc55

Looks good. I am not looking forward to looking into my diffs.

I honestly think the worst part of solid axle 4X4s are the fronts. The ring and pinion is usually in good shape (if it wasn't beaten too bad off-roading), but all the ball joints, steering components and other wearable items are usually shot and a pain in the ass to service.

The rear, well all there really is aside from the ring and pinion are the axle shafts (which are pretty bulletproof in the 14 bolt FF) and the drums assemblies which once you can bust em off the shoes isn't that bad. I have a feeling my rear diff has too much backlash and not enough turning torque resistance at the pinion so it may need a rebuild. I decided against a rear disc conversion and will be rebuilding the drums. Luckily the tech school I just got my Automotive High Performance AS degree from has a brake class that is going to turn and cut my rotors and drums for no charge.