Line-X... How far to take it.

[stangtjk]

I getting my tub ready for line-x. As of right now I plan to have the undercarriage coated from the back all the way to where the firewall meets the floor. On the inside I plan to do the floor from as high up the firewall as you can get all the way back to the tailgate.

On the inside should I keep it to the floor, floor and wheel wells, or floor + all the way up to the bed rails?

Here is my tub, once I finish prepping I'm planning on hitting it with epoxy primer and loading it up on a trailer on its side so the line-x place can just shoot it when I get there. I talk to my local line-x and they quoted me $800 which I didn't think sounded bad at all.

[stangtjk]

Also as you can see my rocker boxes aren't installed at the moment. I was thinking I'd get them​ sprayed separately then install them that way every surface is encapsulated. I'll have to take some extra measures to get them​ welded back on after everything is coated but since this is where the rust starts I think its worth the extra effort.

[lks dcvn]

I agree with your approach to the bottom of your tub. I'd be concerned about buying a truck that had the inside done unless there are a lot of before pictures to show how the floor was prior to coating.

If you are using it as a cruiser - how often will it see the elements that would lead it to rusting again? If you plan to wheel it- that might be a different story.

It's your truck - if you want to coat it- go ahead. If you were going to line-x the entire outside of the tub - that might get a different response.

[stangtjk]

This isn't going to be a show truck or a fair weather cruiser and it won't fit in the garage so it's going to live outside. It will see some off roading and may eventually​ be my daily driver (I've been eyeing the new 6.2L and 8 speed.)

I was counting on the "your truck.. build it how you want" responses but one day I may sell this thing and don't want it to be one of those trucks that buyers are like wtf was that guy thinking when he did that? Which is why outside the body will definitely not see liner. I've seen a few wranglers pull it off but the blazers I've seen I haven't been a fan of.

I find it interesting that you agree with the bottom but had reservations about the inside... Was expecting the opposite. I will have pictures of the tub fully stripped before it sees the liner so there will be no questions about what's hiding beneath. I've fixed every bit of rust I run in to as the last thing I want is too dump all this time and money into it just to have a random rust bubble pop through somewhere a year down the road.

[hemi43]

I would NOT weld the torque boxes afterwards !! This will be a can of worms because there's so much welding to be done to install them. Put them in first and leave the rear caps off. This will give you access to the cavity to be able to spray the line-x in. Once done, you can reinstall the caps because they bolt in.

[lks dcvn]

- take it there ready to go with the torsion boxes on and then have the bolt on the end caps for the second coat of liner.

[67swb72klb]

I would not put it on raw steel from what I have seen it does not work out well.

[Hotrod1972GH]

You can paint it so much cheaper.

[stangtjk]

Won't be going over bare metal, tub will get a coat of epoxy primer before the liner.

I get the idea behind installing the rocker boxes and leaving the caps off but based on the shape of the cavity and the spray equipment used there is no way you're going to get decent coverage inside. If I install the rocker boxes first I probably wouldn't bother trying to line the inside.

My thought was to tape off where the welding would be. I didn't think the welding was that significant. A few stitch welds across the front lip, every other hole along the inner cab support gets a 1/2" long weld and I assume where the rocker box meets the floor gets spot welded but mine was completely rotted out in that area so not sure what it looked like from the factory. My only concern would be cooking the liner off the inside of the floor when welding the front edge but I think the lip that it welds on to is long enough to work with to prevent that if I'm careful. The rocker box will basically have a border around it that won't have linex to allow for the welds. I guess I could have it touches up after but I think I can make it look neat enough not to worry about.

[stangtjk]

Originally Posted by Hotrod1972GH

You can paint it so much cheaper.

Sure could but I don't think paint has quite the same durability. Also hoping the liner will help deaden the sound a little bit.

[hemi43]

Originally Posted by stangtjk

Won't be going over bare metal, tub will get a coat of epoxy primer before the liner.

I get the idea behind installing the rocker boxes and leaving the caps off but based on the shape of the cavity and the spray equipment used there is no way you're going to get decent coverage inside. If I install the rocker boxes first I probably wouldn't bother trying to line the inside.

My thought was to tape off where the welding would be. I didn't think the welding was that significant. A few stitch welds across the front lip, every other hole along the inner cab support gets a 1/2" long weld and I assume where the rocker box meets the floor gets spot welded but mine was completely rotted out in that area so not sure what it looked like from the factory. My only concern would be cooking the liner off the inside of the floor when welding the front edge but I think the lip that it welds on to is long enough to work with to prevent that if I'm careful. The rocker box will basically have a border around it that won't have linex to allow for the welds. I guess I could have it touches up after but I think I can make it look neat enough not to worry about.

You sound like the engineers I used to work with ! LOL
Sounds great in theory, but in practical it will be a nightmare. Not only will you burn off the Line-x at the welds, but also the epoxy primer.

[stangtjk]

Guess that's the engineer in me... You'll absolutely burn off the epoxy, linex too if it's close enough. Thats why I said I'd mask off were the welding will be. If the linex isn't there it can't burn off. The epoxy is going to get burned off around where you weld whether the rocker box in first or not and there in no way you're going to get it all covered back up even shooting in through the end cap, especially up toward the firewall. Either way you're going to end up with areas that aren't coated.

[dubds10]

If you ever want to sell it, don't line-x the interior or exterior of the tub at all. Strictly paint it as few guys want a line-x'd interior/exterior as its a pain in the ass to remove for work needs to be done and it's not as aesthetically pleasing as paint.

Only ever Line-x or Rhinoguard etc the chassis side of the body if you ever plan on re-sale. In theory it's great to prevent rust etc, but it's just so damn ugly and devalues any vehicles it's used on when it isn't just the underbody or a trucks bed if a work truck lol

[stangtjk]

You feel that way about the floor on the inside? I could see not wanting it on the exterior and up the sides on the inside. This wont be a show truck though. It's a truck and will be used like one so I'm not going to think twice about dragging something out bed. I figure paint would get scratched up in no time and look worse than the liner.

[dubds10]

Don't get me wrong, line-x is great on a truck bed floor if it's going to be used as one. I just see lots of guys don't like the interior floors coated incase the vehicle needs to be repainted or repaired in the future. The coatings are a real pain in the ass to remove and most guys who are building these for show or restoring them want a clean floor to deal with not one covered in a coating.

If you really want to do the coating, then maybe just do the bed area and not the floor area at the cab part. Obviously it's up to what you want, but after trying to build custom vehicles with coatings on them I'd just as well not buy any body parts that are visibly covered lol My K5 lived outside and was used as a shop truck, I just had wood down in the rear though. Saved the floor from most abuse at least.

[Lieferson]

I also plan to use my truck as a truck, i plan on bedlining the bottom of my tub after a nice coat of POR-15, and then the floor and inside of the tailgate for the back section of the truck. sound deadening and carpet for the cab. If you ever plan to re-sell the vehicle, just make sure you save the pictures you take of the prep you did before laying down the bedliner so the buyer isnt leery of cover ups and you should be good!

[Stokester]

I am about to spray my blazer (monsterliner) inside. Underside is lizardskin. I was thinking about going on top of "bedrails" where top sets. My reasoning is the top will rub the paint. Bedliner won't scratch and hold up better than paint. Kinda wished I would have painted the top rail now. Monsterliner on the top rail or tape everything and shoot paint and cc on top rail!! Any thoughts/opinions/guidance!!!!
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[stangtjk]

I considered over the rails also for the same reason but I just don't care for the look of linex over the rails in general. This is my fist blazer with a removable top so have no experience with scratches on the bed rails but based on the ones I've seen it doesn't seem to be that big of an issue. Not sure how ruff monsterliner is but I'd also worry about the seal between the top and bedrail getting chewed up by the liner.

[Stokester]

It's one of the smoother ones on the market. It should seal fairly well I think? Spent all that time painting and masking and sanding and buffing!!! Sucks to have to do all that again. Sometimes u gotta do watcha gotta do!!! I just don't think I'll be happy with the way it will look and it's a bear to take that stuff off.. guess I'll break out the paint gun... I have some touch ups to do anyway. I was able to hit a spot or two with a airbrush. FYI it Really worked well! $15 at harbor freight I figured I'd give it a shot. Thanks for letting me hop on your thread. I got to go sand some rails now. Good luck with your project!!
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