Door panel hump

[72Mountaineer]

New door latches, and I put the new cardboard door panels on my '53, and they've got this nice hump in them where the door latch rod connects and sticks way out. The latches are new and correct, is this a normal condition?

[MARTINSR]

You know what's weird, the AD inside door handle actuators are wrong on these trucks. The piece that goes between the handle and the latch goes at an angle and not in the recessed area that was designed into the door!.





And over and over you will see modified trucks with this mistake still!





Back years ago with my original doors I modified the linkage to run properly in the recessed area on the door!

I will be doing the same on the doors I am running now, I don't get it, I don't have a clue why Chevy made them like that, it makes no sense to me!

Brian

[mr48chev]

I actually went out and looked a door I have to make sure that rod did go that way. This one is bent because the door was jammed closed. Who ever drove it would slam their shoulder against the door to open it until they bent the door and window molding.

My helper was waiting for me to get done taking photos.

[MARTINSR]

I like your kitty!

Brian

[MiraclePieCo]

Two ways to avoid the door card hump:

1) Locate some OEM '47 relays (which ran inside the door recess), or

2) Do what I did: use mid-60's relays.
They also run horizontally in the door recess, but require minor modification to install (note the welds where I had to shorten the arm slightly):

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

Two ways to avoid the door card hump:

1) Locate some OEM '47 relays (which ran inside the door recess), or

2) Do what I did: use mid-60's relays.
They also run horizontally in the door recess, but require minor modification to install (note the welds where I had to shorten the arm slightly):

RIGHT ON! I need to remember this!

Back when I did my truck in the late seventies I pulled apart the original relay and reassembled it upside down as I remember. I am pretty certain I remember grinding the tabs off so the outer piece would come off and then plug welding it back on, but your way makes more sense.

Brian

[MiraclePieCo]

Originally Posted by MARTINSR

RIGHT ON! I need to remember this!
Brian

64-66 Chevy/GMC PU

You'll need to cut and reweld the arm and enlarge the mounting holes slightly. 10-minute job, so it should take you two days

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by MiraclePieCo

64-66 Chevy/GMC PU

You'll need to cut and reweld the arm and enlarge the mounting holes slightly. 10-minute job, so it should take you two days

LOLOLOLOLOLOL


Brian

[Matt_50]

I'm saving this for later.

Martinsr, flipping them did or didn't work?

[MiraclePieCo]

Here's the original service manual photo for the '47-'48 trucks, showing the early style door relays running horizontally inside the door recess. Not sure why Chevy changed it.

[MARTINSR]

Originally Posted by Matt_50

I'm saving this for later.

Martinsr, flipping them did or didn't work?

As I remember I had to pull them apart and rotate them and weld them back together. I don't have one that isn't in a box in the attic so I can't pull it out and take a look right now.

Brian

[b-mac]

If memory serves me correctly, I think the Altman kit has you flip the door handle, or change side to side. I'm pretty sure it used the correct guide path. The Altman site instructions aren't that great, but a couple of guys on this site have done great write-ups.

[b-mac]

I am mistaken...