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Old 08-12-2018, 06:18 PM   #26
Matt_50
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Re: Brake lines

No kidding? This nickel alloy bends that well? I've had to bend replacement lines a little bit on a few cars and I know the steel can be touchy...

That tool looks nice and simple, got a link?
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Old 08-12-2018, 07:20 PM   #27
mikebte
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Re: Brake lines

Quote:
Originally Posted by Matt_50 View Post
No kidding? This nickel alloy bends that well? I've had to bend replacement lines a little bit on a few cars and I know the steel can be touchy...

That tool looks nice and simple, got a link?
Ya, bends nice. I still use my bending tool to try and make it look nicer. But it bends well.

The tool is really only for brakes lines, limited sizes.


OEMTOOLS 24364 In Line Flaring Tool Kit
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DO9142G..._tGkCBbPFW790C
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Old 08-12-2018, 07:57 PM   #28
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Re: Brake lines

Please remember to properly support the copper-nickel line and do not allow anything loose to rub against it. It will chafe through in short order.

Also, if you are making your own flare it is also extremely important to "seat" the flare in the mating fitting. This usually requires multiple passes tightening and loosening the fitting nut.


And finally, professionals aren't likely to make simple mistakes like leaving the nut off the tubing. These guys are just trying to make themselves feel better. Professionals do things like put the nut on backward or worse, put the wrong nut on altogether!

Last edited by 1project2many; 08-12-2018 at 08:35 PM.
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Old 08-12-2018, 08:01 PM   #29
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Re: Brake lines

I think my donor, 84 c10, that I got my MC, brake pedal and rear axle had 3/16 and 1/4 lines. Would it be ok to use 3/16 all around and use adapters where needed?
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Old 08-12-2018, 08:26 PM   #30
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Re: Brake lines

3/16 for disc, 1/4 for drums
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Old 08-12-2018, 08:27 PM   #31
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Re: Brake lines

The 1/4" line to the rear brakes allows a larger volume of fluid to flow to the wheel cylinders so the shoes apply in the least time. If you have rear disc you can switch the 3/16" tubing. Otherwise I believe it is best to use 1/4" tubing.


Also, these are really good and durable tools. They're expensive but if you plan to do more than one line it's good to have.
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/600-ser...rument-benders

These are a little less expensive:
https://www.ridgid.com/us/en/400-ser...rument-benders

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Old 08-12-2018, 08:34 PM   #32
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Re: Brake lines

Makes good sense, I'll stick to what it was. I guess I'll need a different tool than the one just listed...
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Old 11-05-2018, 12:18 PM   #33
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Re: Brake lines

I'm ordering brake lines today! I'm looking for fasteners or something that I can use to hold the lines. I'm seeing some that right like a metal tab wrapped in rubber. And my neighbor has an awesome Eastwood flaring tool, showed me his projects lines and said he would show me how to use.


Would you guys recommend a kit like This?

https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?m...2F201590838927
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Old 11-05-2018, 12:44 PM   #34
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Re: Brake lines

Those metal tabs wrapped in rubber are call ‘adel clamps’.
Work nicely for protecting your new lines.

Line clamps also work well.
http://www.superchevy.com/how-to/add...e-clamp-types/
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Old 11-05-2018, 12:53 PM   #35
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Re: Brake lines

Thanks! Knowing what they are called sure helps in looking them up.
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Old 11-05-2018, 01:08 PM   #36
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Re: Brake lines

You can buy them in bunches in the help section in your local parts emporium.
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Old 11-10-2018, 12:13 PM   #37
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Re: Brake lines

What proportioning valve would you guys recommend?
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Old 11-10-2018, 02:41 PM   #38
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Re: Brake lines

Do you have the valve from the same truck as the rest of the components? That is likely to be a good start. The square body trucks had a slightly better weight distribution but they were still pickups and they still had to prevent rear lockup.

Even better might be a height adjustable valve from some of the larger pickups. That way you can dial it in to reduce rear braking when empty and if you ever load weight in the rear you'd get additional braking automatically.

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Old 11-10-2018, 03:00 PM   #39
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Re: Brake lines

Well, I do but it was left out in the rain with the rear line off. I know, my bad. Looked a little rusty in the threads on the rear adapter piece.

Could I clean it up?
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Old 11-10-2018, 03:27 PM   #40
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Re: Brake lines

You can clean it up. The threads on the brake line nuts are the same as on fine thread nuts. So if you have a rethreader set you can chase the threads out.

However, I would blow it out with air first. If dirt, sand, or rusty water came out I would not use that part.
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Old 11-10-2018, 09:11 PM   #41
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Re: Brake lines

I cleaned it up and looks like just the rear port looked worse than it was. I guess the reverse cone caught a little water or condensation but in the very center through the hole it was all shiny.


Got my brake lines in!

So, do I route them, bend them, get them all in place and then flare?
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Old 11-10-2018, 10:41 PM   #42
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Re: Brake lines

Hmmm...

When replacing a line theses days I try to build the replacement line completely before installing it. For lines built from scratch I would flare and attach one end then bend much of it in place. Expect to make multiple test fits while making your bends. It's ok to do this. It's how you get a good result.
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Old 11-10-2018, 10:53 PM   #43
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Re: Brake lines

Well, I'll start with my proportioning valve I guess. I like the pic miraclepieco shared, I'll mount similar if I can. Looks like he capped on of his front ports and I'm assuming has a tee for front brakes.

What's recommended, a tee to front brakes or just run one for each wheel?
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Old 11-11-2018, 12:21 AM   #44
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Re: Brake lines

You'll be fine with a Tee.
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