Here We Go - 65 C10 LWB - For the Kid

[ctandc]

Okay, so after running around after work, I was finally able to get a LITTLE bit done. Piece by piece I guess.
So here’s the control arm and the air cleaner I started soaking two nights ago. This is more than a 3:1 mix of the Prep and Etch.
This is the air cleaner lid fresh out of the soak. No wiping or rinsing yet:


After a rinse and easy scrub – Nice..


Here’s the control arm and the rest of the air cleaner. Soon they’ll get a scrubbing, sanding and a coat of Epoxy primer:


The pile of labeled hardware is starting to stack up. I need to empty my old filing cabinet and put it to good use:



The part pile is growing to:

Here’s the “cracks” in my exhaust manifold where it mounts to the intake:


And here’s what happens when you unbolt the intake:


Guess it’s time to start looking for a manifold. I’m assuming early 250’s and all 230’s should work.

Had time to scrub on the engine a bit. A soft bristles brush, some engine degreaser (no water) and thin a rinse with some washing power mixed with water seems to be the ticket:



Also, I sealed the deal on the SWB frame. Hope to get it this weekend. Onward…………….

[McMurphy]

I had to smile when I saw your parts pile!
I have noticed that the down side of not doing my build in a logical step A to B to C method, but more of a "Ahhhh what do I feel like, or have time to mess with today?" approach, is that I have shelves of stuff that I have refurbished, or modified and are just waiting for their turn to be finalized and mounted up.

With the weather changing here, I forsee getting more progress done more quickly for me.

Your build is interesting, and I am learning!
The electric tanking is not something I had seen before, do you know the scientific name for that process so I can google it?

You certainly have a project on your hands !
Please keep the pics coming!

[ctandc]

Originally Posted by McMurphy

I had to smile when I saw your parts pile!
I have noticed that the down side of not doing my build in a logical step A to B to C method, but more of a "Ahhhh what do I feel like, or have time to mess with today?" approach, is that I have shelves of stuff that I have refurbished, or modified and are just waiting for their turn to be finalized and mounted up.

With the weather changing here, I forsee getting more progress done more quickly for me.

Your build is interesting, and I am learning!
The electric tanking is not something I had seen before, do you know the scientific name for that process so I can google it?

You certainly have a project on your hands !
Please keep the pics coming!

Electrolysis - for rust removal.

IT DOES work. But like the rebar I used? It attracts and keeps the rust you're removing, so eventually the rebar becomes useless, so you have to buy more.

I've seen where guys are using graphite rods, it does the same thing, but the rust doesn't stick to it.

For the money / effort, the Etch and prep parts soak is sure hard to beat.

[McMurphy]

Thanks for the info, if I get the time I will read up on that today!

[ctandc]

Well I feel like I'm actually making some progress!!!

Since this truck will likely take up all my “spare” time for quite a while, I decided to get rid of all my motorcycle riding gear and some equipment. I sold my last bike at the end of last Summer, and had planned to snag another one right around the time this truck fell in my lap.

That sale (ongoing) is adding some much needed capital into this project and it doesn’t “Count” towards the project budget since I already had the stuff. Yeah I know, but it makes sense to me. At least when my wife starts seeing stuff show up, I can tell her I bought it with proceeds from selling off stuff I already had.

I ordered a gallon of epoxy primer and catalyst. Two sprayable gallons should last me for a bit.

I’m going to slide by the local paint supply and pick up a pint of silver base and a quart of black base. I already have a quart of clear and reducer etc. So time to put it to use. I’m going to get on cleaning and priming and painting the engine.

It will look good (hopefully) and it will definitely hold up. Not only that, I can get some much needed practice spraying base and clear. I’m going to use my mini-HVLP gun to do it all. Yeah I know, not ideal, but I’ll muddle through.

Still trying to line up a trailer to go pick up my new-to-me SWB frame. I also might grab the inner fenders, radiator support and grill support panel from that truck as well. They aren’t in great shape, but between my parts and those parts I should be able to patch together some suitable steel.

Hoping this guy didn’t sell the 73-87 spindles I called about. Had to go out of town last weekend for Easter. You snooze you lose.

Also hitting the junkyard Saturday morning. Looking to pick apart that 70’s Camaro with the 250 engine and there is a ’66 and ’64 C10 in the yard, hoping for some joy on some parts.

[McMurphy]

Good luck on the boneyarding! I enjoy going to those more than a swap meet or flea market!

Weather here is almost good enough to get back at it for me too!!

[ctandc]

Okay next step looks to be going through the engine. Right now I’m cleaning it up the best I can, without making a huge mess in the garage.

Last night, amidst trying to organize the shop, boxing up motorcycle gear (that I’ve sold)for shipping and just trying to make sense of the mess in the garage, I was able to work on the engine for a bit.

I’ve got the majority of the LH side clean. So I removed the fan, the water pump pulley (added it to the parts soak tank) and the alternator.

After scrubbing, spraying, rinsing (repeat) on the front of the engine, I’m still amazed at the amount of crap that accumulates on an engine over 46+ years. At one point I thought the corner of the oil pan looked clean, until I clipped a piece of it withj a scraper and what appeared to be solid metal, was actual grime. It moved. So I popped the scraper under and a complete molded piece of dirt and grime plopped down into the drain bucket.

Next up is removing the harmonic balancer. I’ve got a removal tool around the shop somewhere, just have to find where I put it (so I wouldn’t have trouble finding it again – of course).

I figure even without a threaded crankshaft snout, I should be able to screw the three puller bolts into the hold on the balancer itself and use the big screw to get it off. That seems to be what the ’63 Shop manual is showing.

While I’m at I want to mock up some kind of simple “tool” to bolt onto the three available bolt holes in the balancer, so that I easily rotate the engine by hand during teardown and reassembly, since again, there is not balancer bolt.

I’m thinking a simple piece of metal, bolted into those three holes, with a square hole cut into the metal to allow a ½” drive ratchet to turn the engine over.


I’m also going to rob the complete front end off the ’79 Camaro w/ 250 6cyl at the local pick-a-part. Here’s hoping it’s still there tomorrow morning. Right now I plan on grabbing:

- Exhaust manifold
- Intake manifold
- Any needed linkage / brackets for setting up my throttle linkage / TH350 kickdown (I’m replacing the 3 speed)
- Harmonic Balancer (mainly for reference, I might spring for a new one – we’ll what the yard wants for it. If it’s too much, I’ll take pics and measurements and order a new one. I found a new one for under $60).
- Timing cover and tab (It seems the location of this may have moved around over the years in these engines, and this would be an easy AND CHEAP way to make sure mine is right).
- Engine lift points
- Any other engine mounted brackets including for the alternator (I plan on upgrading to an internally regulated alternator as well)


Right now I plan on dropping the pan and checking bearing (rod and main) condition and clearances (with plastigauge). If these meet specs, then I’ll move on to removing the cylinder head.

If they don’t, the truck might be getting an unplanned small block Chevrolet swap (would love to keep the 230, but I can screw together a rebuilt, mild 350 for less than a stock rebuild on a 230).

I plan on cleaning up the valves myself as well as cleaning up the combustion chambers, adding new valve seals etc.

I am considering dropping the head off at a machine shop and having it magnafluxed (for cracks), cleaned and possible decked a bit – to bump the compression up a bit.

Not sure if this is a great idea on a stock bottom end. I’ll do some digging.

Hopefully after all that I can prep it, paint it, install new complete gasket kit, rebuild the carb and run it.

I also have to arrange borrowing a trailer to pick up the SWB frame I’m buying.

[ctandc]

So got up this morning, heading out to get the rest of the stuff I could possibly use off the '79 Camaro 250.

Guess what car was still listed in the inventory?

Guess what car was crushed?

Lovely. Figures.

Oh well, I should be used to this by now, this isn't my first rodeo.

On the plus side, arranged the trailer and will go pick up my SWB frame tomorrow. I'll post pics once I get it.

So I HAD to get organized in my garage. When you are working in a small space on a build like this, it’s like solving a puzzle to get everything where it needs to be. Emptied a filing cabinet and filled it full of zip lock bags full of bolts and misc hardware.

Tore into the engine a little.



Do yourself a favor if you grab a loaner balancer removal tool, use your own 3/8” bolts. Other than that it worked great. I don’t buy pullers anymore, I always break them. LOL.

Here’s the old balancer, and why I’ll be ordering one before too long:



Well since I can’t use the front accessories off the ’79 Camaro 250, since it had its date with the crusher, I’ll likely order a ’79 Camaro 250 balancer (about $60) and I need to call GM to get the part # for the water pump pulley for the same car. After that it’ll be piecing it together. I’ll go with an alternator for the same engine (internal regulator).

Wheeled the engine stand outside to give the engine a proper bath. All those years of oil and grime needed some attention



While that was soaking I started making the most out of my working space. I need to make a loft for overhead storage, sooner rather than later. I’ll add it to the list.



After some soaking and scrubbing and bringing it back in the garage:





Parts I won’t be needing, if anybody is looking, they’ll probably be listed pretty soon in the classifieds:



I pulled the water pump, and it’s waiting for me to go back out



I’m going to yank the head and tear it down and see what the local shop will charge to clean it and check it out. At least put some new valve seals on.

I’m also considering having them shave the head a bit. A compression bump wouldn’t be horrible.:

I hope to get the pan off tomorrow evening and take plastigauge readings on the main and rod bearings. If they are in spec, I’m just going to concentrate on the top half.

Things I’ll be ordering:
- Full gasket set
- Harmonic Balancer
- Water pump
- Pulley
- Alternator
- Carb rebuild kit
I’m sure there’s more.
Step by step

[rmvlt1100]

I love your progress on you and the kids project. I am going to try the rust remover solution, I have a few more parts to clean up. It's cool that your sticking with the six cylinder engine. If by chance you need to replace any of the body parts be cautious on the after market parts. They do not fit very good. Mainly the front end parts, like the inner fenders and the core support. If possilbe find a core support from a donor truck. Anyway the build looks great and keep up the good work. Also you mentioned maybe going the LS engine way I am doing it and it has been fairly easy so far. Just a little costly. Havea great day.

[ctandc]

Originally Posted by rmvlt1100

I love your progress on you and the kids project.

Thanks. I forgot how much I enjoy going crazy building a project vehicle.

Originally Posted by rmvlt1100

I am going to try the rust remover solution, I have a few more parts to clean up.

The Prep and Etch works great. I would highly recommend it. Also be aware, many of the “high end” metal etches that a lot of body shops use is basically phosphoric acid (main ingredient). Same stuff.

Originally Posted by rmvlt1100

It's cool that your sticking with the six cylinder engine.

It’s a budget build. It ran. I hope to keep running it. We’ll see.

Originally Posted by rmvlt1100

If by chance you need to replace any of the body parts be cautious on the after market parts. They do not fit very good. Mainly the front end parts, like the inner fenders and the core support. If possilbe find a core support from a donor truck.

I think I can save both my inners and core support with some welding and patching. The grill support panel is likely shot, well it’s in pieces right now. I’ll cross that bridge once the chassis / drivetrain is ready. Focus Daniel-San…focus.

Originally Posted by rmvlt1100

Anyway the build looks great and keep up the good work. Also you mentioned maybe going the LS engine way I am doing it and it has been fairly easy so far. Just a little costly. Havea great day.

Thanks again.

[ctandc]

Another day.
So I get up early, make a dump run, then head over to pick up the trailer I need to borrow to go pick up the SWB frame (about 75 miles away).

Find out the trailer is a round 7 pin plug and it won’t jive with my Dakota’s 4 wire flat plug up.

Surely any parts store has an adapter? After calling one, he assured me that he had one.

Four parts stores and one U-haul later, I realized “not so fast”. All the adapters are backwards from what I need.

I finally find one at the 2nd U Haul place, and right as the cashier is handing me the receipt, my buddy calls (the one lending the trailer) and said he many have what I need borrowed from his neighbor. So I return the $30 adapter and give it a go.

Up and running. Well at least going to get the frame wasn’t an ordeal, once I actually had the trailer hooked up
.
Got it all snug in its parking spot while I address the engine:



So I picked up some plastigauge this morning so I could check the main / rod bearing tolerances on the 230.

Oh yeah… stayed up late last night tearing it down a bit. Once you get started it’s hard to stop:







Head needs clean up, but who didn’t expect that. Not horrible though:



Pistons could use some love too:



So I stocked up on carb cleaner and went to work on the top end. Since I have the pan off, I’ll just use carb cleaner and shop rags to get some of the loose carbon off. Combination of air, shop towel, carb cleaner, than a brake clean dessert.





I start scraping the head gasket mating surface and the razor blade catches on something. It’s metal:







Hmmm…
It almost looks like the thread pulled a bit. Figures. Remember the object is to get this thing back in and running again with minimal expense. I want a year or two out of this engine. Hadn’t planned on a trip for the block to the machine shop.

Feedback?
Opinions?
Grind it flat (Carefully) and keep going and hope for the best?

[Captainfab]

I would first closely inspect the threads to see if they might stand torquing again. If so, then just take a flat file to it and remove the burr. If the threads don't look good enough to torque again, I would consider a thread repair of some sort. I'm not sure if a heli-coil is recommended for a use like this or not. When installed correctly, a heli-coil is supposed to be as strong as the original thread.

[ctandc]

Originally Posted by Captainfab

I would first closely inspect the threads to see if they might stand torquing again. If so, then just take a flat file to it and remove the burr. If the threads don't look good enough to torque again, I would consider a thread repair of some sort. I'm not sure if a heli-coil is recommended for a use like this or not. When installed correctly, a heli-coil is supposed to be as strong as the original thread.

Funny part is that the threads in the hole, and on the bolt, are fine.

I plastigauged 2 of the main bearings last night and they are DEFINITELY within tolerances.

If the rod bearing clearance passes muster, I'm going to look more closely at the heads. I'd like to keep the 6 cylinder redo under a certain budget, past a certain point it just makes more sense to look for a small block.

Right now here's where I would be:

Re-Ring Kit (new rings, main and rod bearings and complete gasket kit) $100
Valve seals $20

With the tolerances the mains came in at, I know I could get by with a polish on the crank. Need to get a price on that.

Doing it this way I'd likely reuse my pistons. Don't know if it's worth the time at this point, considering I still need a harmonic balancer ($60 - for '79 250 Camaro to match pulley setup) then a water pump pulley ($40).

[ctandc]

Alright, after some digging, looks like I'm going to try and revive the old 230.

I can get a re-ring kit (rod and main bearing, rings and gasket kit) for right at $100.

I just had to order a crankshaft socket, since I can't find mine anywhere.

Tonight I plan on taking a plastigauge reading on all main and rod bearings.

Next up is seeing how bad the cylinders are. I think most of the ridge is carbon, I'll see tonight. After that I'll break the engine down, get it all apart and start cleaning, cleaning and cleaning.

[ctandc]

Alright another night, a little more time to wrench on the truck.

Trying to stay focused on the engine for now.
So continued checking the main bearing clearance to give me an idea where I stand, as far as machine work I might or might not need.

For those who haven’t used it, say hello to platigauge. It’s simply a piece of plastic you but on the bearing surface, torque the bearing cap (rod or main) to spec, then unbolt it, break the handy little measuring device out and see where you stand.

All my main bearings were actually in spec.

Cut a piece of the plastigauge (Still in the paper) to fit across the journal, clean the bearing and journal off, and lay the plastigauge across the journal:



Clean off the bolts, and torque the cap back in place. Then remove the cap and use the plastigauge wrapper to measure the flattened piece of plastic:





Just a reminder, to myself as well, keep track of how the main bearing and rod caps are orientated. Normally they are stamped and you can keep them the same way, in the same place. I keep every cylinder in its own Ziploc freezer bag:



Some main bearing wear, but nothing out of sorts for 150k hard miles:





Got the oil pump out to clean it off:



There must have been a previous “repair” attempt, the oil pump screen and big long piece of blue RTV in it. There was evidence of its use on the oil pan. Nice. I threw it across the garage and couldn’t find it when I took the pics:



Loosen then take off the rod bolt nuts. Then take a piece of wood (personally I like the hard rubber end of a long hammer) and use a hammer to knock the cap loose by hitting the end of the rod bolt.
It’ll pop off. Then get some rod bolt covers, so the rod bolts don’t mess up the crank when you knock the piston / rod assembly out. Here’s my high tech, patent-pending version:



Then use the same wood or rubber piece to knock the piston / rod assemblies out the bottom (top actually) of the block. Use the “beefy” part of piston to “persuade”. If you have a pronounced ridge at the top of the cylinder, you may need a ridge reamer or something like that to get the pistons out.

Now I was taught this trick a long time ago, actually learned it when I was tearing down an engine where I wanted to resuse the forged pistons it had. Thread in two head bolts (opposing corners of the cylinder you’re working on. If you do it right you only have to move one bolt at a time as you move to each cylinder – kind of like the golf tee game at Cracker Barrel) then wrap the bolts in rubber bands, rope or even electrical wire (it was right near where I was working). This will actually catch the piston as it comes out.







Oh, and if you’re like me and you can’t find your crankshaft socket (to rotate the crank around to make it easier depending on which cylinder you’re working on) then make do.

Where’s that bag of flywheel bolts? That’ll work. Thread ‘em in, use a long screwdriver to rotate. That’s the ticket:



Well there’s definitely some wear on the rod bearings. I’ve seen worse, down to the copper on a few of ‘em:



Pistons don’t look bad at all, and I only broke one ring. #1 cylinder, so not sure if it was already broken



And also I ran across what looks to be a very small “nick” in the crank on one of the rod bearing journals. I know I didn’t do it, it didn’t show itself until the rod cap came loose. There’s also a small spot near the oil hole in the journal. No pics, I was a bit ticked off.

Guess I’ll have to take the crank to the machine shop for a polish or grind. We’ll see.
Oh well, it is 47+ years old.
Since I’m doing the crank, I’ll also have the rods checked out.
I’ll get a tally for parts / labor before I make a decision to rebuild it or toss it.

[ctandc]

Still haven’t decided if I’m keeping the 230 yet.

I’m going to measure the bore and bore taper, to get an idea of what kind of shape it’s in first.

If that looks okay I might just hone the cylinders myself, add rings and bearing, get a valve job on the head and call it good enough.

The rods are worrying me a bit though. There was enough wear to see copper in a few spots. I really want to get the rods checked out, but resizing would run a bit more than I can get a recondition set of rods (ready to run) for.

I’m keeping my eyes open for a deal on a small block or even another (read free or cheap) six. Guess we’ll see. Wife is off the next two days so I’m taking a break from the truck. Be back on it Friday after work.

[62 Barnfind]

I was thinking the same about getting rid of the six. I fired mine right up and it ran good so I didn't want to drop in more money for a small block. I am planning on putting on a double or triple carb on the engine to give it more of a hot rod look! First I want it to look good. Do you have your son helping you? I tried to get mine to help and it was a no go. I told him if he would I would give it to him. The Xbox is more interesting!

[ctandc]

Originally Posted by 62 Barnfind

I was thinking the same about getting rid of the six. I fired mine right up and it ran good so I didn't want to drop in more money for a small block. I am planning on putting on a double or triple carb on the engine to give it more of a hot rod look! First I want it to look good. Do you have your son helping you? I tried to get mine to help and it was a no go. I told him if he would I would give it to him. The Xbox is more interesting!

Well he helped with teardown. Right now not a whole lot to help with. He’s playing HS baseball and that eats up time to. You can bet your butt he’ll be helping or he won’t be driving it.

[62 Barnfind]

I gave up on it. He wants something else. A truck that is newer. I think I got him interested in the 73-80 body style. But who knows. I showed him your build and he said cool. Good luck with him helping on your build! I have been looking on ebay and cregs list for parts. There is a lot of sixes on there if yours is bad.

[ctandc]

I've been working on the engine in the garage after work each evening.

Took some initial measurements and I think I'm going to polish the crank myself with some 600 grit, order .001 main bearings and see where I am.

I still plan on taking my pistons / rods into the machine shop and letting them check them out. If they have to resize the big ends, I'll be out $60 or so, but to me it's worth it.

This engine was filthy. I can't get over how dirty it was inside and out.

Finally got it cleaned. Knocked the glaze off the cylinders with a hone and cleaned the block down good, and oiled the cylinders a bit.

Plan on getting some primer and hopefully base / clear on the block tomorrow if the weather cooperates (too windy today).

Right now I'm soaking my main caps and pistons (one assembly at a time) in a big can of Berryman's.

Local shop said he'd take the complete head, tear it down, clean it and check everything. If it needs a valve job, cost is $145. If not, much less.

I figure I can still get this thing freshened up for less than $400 when it's said and done. I'll take that.

[2manyprojects]

Nice build. If you need 6cyl parts or misc 64-66 stuff I have more than I will ever use and they are in Richmond.

[ctandc]

Originally Posted by 2manyprojects

Nice build. If you need 6cyl parts or misc 64-66 stuff I have more than I will ever use and they are in Richmond.

I need a few things. Email me at ctandc@comcast.net

[2manyprojects]

Originally Posted by ctandc

I need a few things. Email me at ctandc@comcast.net

email sent

[ctandc]

So I’m still working on the engine. Friday night I got the engine down to the bare block. I’m cleaning parts as best I can as they come out, so that definitely slows down progress.

Also, I can’t tell you how glad I am for technology. Oil in the 60’s and 70’s is light years away from the oil we have now, even cheap oil.

I’ve had more than my share of engines down to bare block. This thing is FILTHY. It ran great. But my god the parts coming out are just impregnated with grime.

Rebuild will stay low buck with VERY minimal machine work for sure now. I will be polishing the crank myself shortly. Before someone scoffs, I know years ago it was actually in one of the Chevy Power manuals. It’s not for cranks that need turning, and in reality any hand polishing is not likely to take any material off that could be measure by normal devices. I’m looking to smooth a small nick and also just generally clean it up.

400/600 grit wet/dry paper cut to width AND length for each journal. Taped together, add some WD-40 and use a shoestring and go to town.

I’ve got the block pretty much ready for primer and paint. I forgot how much “fun” that is. Of course I wanted to get primer on it Sunday, and it rained. ALL DAY. And the temp must have dropped 20 degrees from Saturday.

I also rediscovered an old friend and in the process really got ticked off.

Took the cylinder hone back to the local O’Reilly’s to get the deposit back. This store is literally 2 minutes from my house, it’s less than a year old, and I’ve gotten to know the staff there. Good people. Most of ‘em gearheads.

So I’m at the counter and I see this guy buying a big gallon can of Berryman’s carb cleaner. You know the kind you dunk your carb pieces in and let ‘em sit? LIGHTBULB. That stuff would work great for internal and other engine parts. Especially bolts, main caps etc.

So I pony up $26 for a can and take it home to try it. WORKS GREAT. The mains look GREAT. I can even read the factory stamping of the main number now.

So I’m in need of a few things so I run to Walmart yesterday. I need more blue shop towels. They are the cheapest by far, two rolls for less than $4. Also you can get carb cleaner and brake cleaner for much cheaper than the parts stores. (Also great parts cleaners). What do I see on the shelf there below the carb cleaner? That’s right, Berryman’s parts / carb cleaner in the gallon can. And it’s $18. WTH????

How is the SAME EXACT product $8 more at the local parts store?

I plan to ask the manager that same question this week.

But now I have two cans, and I’m starting to soak the piston / rod assemblies. After just an hour or so and a little scrubbing with a tooth brush, the one piston I tested almost looks BRAND new. Removed all the rings and hopefully this will help loosen up the crud in the ring grooves, along with help from a broken ring.

Started taking initial measurements for piston-to-bore clearance and I’m well within spec. I need to start looking for some .001 main bearings as well.

[ctandc]

I’m starting to rethink keeping the 230 engine. After gathering numbers, a small block w/ a 700R4 swap looks more and more sensible every day.

If I don’t have to do ANY machine work to the 230, I’m looking at the following:

- Main bearings(I need .001 bearings – the budget rebuild kits don’t have this option)
- Rod Bearings
- Full gasket kit

So I’m looking at $130-150 shopping around.

Next up I need the following:

- Double groove harmonic balancer
- Double groove water pump pulley
- Replacement exhaust manifold
- Carb rebuild kit
- Spark plug wires (for the HEI distributor I already have)
- Later model alternator (swapping to internal regulator and match the ’79 Camaro 250 setup which I have the power steering pump and brackets from

Add another $250-300 (and that’s hunting around for deals)

Then to make the 230 a bit more drive friendly, I plan on swapping in a 3.08 rear, since I’m going 5 lug in the front anyway. So add another $250 or so. I can find good deals on rears, but nowhere near me. Found one in NC for $175, but it’s gonna cost me $100 in gas to go get it.

Add in another $200 or so for a used Turbo 350.

So that puts me right about $1000 to get it done. Not counting the little things (that I’d need with any engine setup / install).

I’ve seen 305/350 TPI / 700R4 combos from running vehicles (with harness etc) for for $500-800.

I could also keep the 3.73 rear in this case and either buy 6 lug rotors for the front or get my axles redrilled for 5 lug in the rear.

I’m going to keep moving forward with the work needed on the internals for the 230 (cleaning / prepping etc) but hold on buying hard parts, while I keep an eye out for any deals.

Hmmm……..