Frame horn bent, repair, replace or ???

[Big Daddy Bear]

Got my short wheel base doner stripped down to a bare frame, after getting the front sheet metal and cab off, I could see that there is some damage to the frame horn on the driver side. Couldn't tell until I got everything out of the way.

Looked around on the forum, and read some threads on this, now contemplating what I should do. If the rest of the frame measures out okay and is not tweaked, twisted or bent, would you leave it as is or repair/replace it?

[mikebte]

If it was mine, I would repair/replace it and use the frame.

[AussieinNC]

Repair it....its only the radiator support horn that's bent...

nothing really critical...

Remove the power steer box and heat the area where it bent to cherry red and bang it back into line...

Once it's back in line, let it cool, then run a nice bead weld down the back of the support horn...

Have fun...

[Big Daddy Bear]

Okay, spent some time this morning with a tape measure on this frame and my long bed frame which has not been damaged.

The measurements of 42 5/8", 34 1/4" and 27 1/4' are from the undamaged long bed frame.

The circled measurements are from the same points on the damaged short bed frame.

My question at this point is, is this far enough out to be a concern?

I can see a possibility of some body fitment/gap issues maybe, and I am not sure if there is enough room to adjust for gaps and proper hood fit?

As was suggested, I could probably heat and bend/hammer it back closer, but I really don't think I want try that route. I would be more inclined to grind through the welds and separate the front clips from both frames and weld the straight front back to the short bed rear section.

But, if the current differences are not enough to cause issues, I wouldn't mind just running it as is, all on the assumption that an alignment shop will not have issues based on these amounts of difference...

Thoughts on what my next step should be based on the numbers??

Thanks!

[AussieinNC]

Those measurements are well within "truck" scope...

I would just bend the bracket back to the chassis rail, weld it as suggested before and continue with the build....

These chassis...along with every other truck chassis built in last 50 years are not precision pieces....they are designed to be "about" right....

Thats why they use large washers and rubber mounts that can flex....

Good luck and get on to next issue....

[Big Daddy Bear]

Thanks for the replies, appreciate the feedback.