radiator question

[dave`12]

I have a 67 c10. it came with a 2 core radiator with nothing much of a shroud. I'm putting a 350 in the vehicle.

Does anyone know where I might find a suitable kit with a radiator and shroud designed to work together that can handle the new engine? I live in south florida where it gets quite hot and the vehicle has a/c, so I'm thinking a 3 core and a good shroud will be necessary.

also fan advice appreciated.

thanx

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by dave`12

I have a 67 c10. it came with a 2 core radiator with nothing much of a shroud. I'm putting a 350 in the vehicle.

Does anyone know where I might find a suitable kit with a radiator and shroud designed to work together that can handle the new engine? I live in south florida where it gets quite hot and the vehicle has a/c, so I'm thinking a 3 core and a good shroud will be necessary.

also fan advice appreciated.

thanx

I would try and find someone that has some original pieces available. That way you know everything will work together. If you want new stuff I can't help with that, I have never purchased any of those parts aftermarket.

A 7 blade clutch fan would work good for cooling....

LockDoc

[70C10Toejam]

I've got a shroud and fan from a 350 with a 4-core rad. Fan clutch went bad and switched to electric fans. Don't know if shrouds are different based on no. of cores. A 4-core rad should be easy to get.

[LockDoc]

Originally Posted by 70C10Toejam

I've got a shroud and fan from a 350 with a 4-core rad. Fan clutch went bad and switched to electric fans. Don't know if shrouds are different based on no. of cores. A 4-core rad should be easy to get.

Chad, I think the ones for a 2wd w/350 are pretty much the same. I know the big block shrouds are different..... Not familiar with 4wd at all.

LockDoc

[GASoline71]

The shrouds should be the same for 3 core or 4 core for a small block. The aftermarket made shrouds are garbage and don't fit worth snot. So try to source an OEM shroud.

The 1967 with an inline 6 cylinder didn't come with a fan shroud at all. Just a small "hand guard" over the fan.

Gary

[dave`12]

Haven't been able to find a shroud on the internet.

does anyone know what years I might be able to pick from at a junk yard?

[Grumpy old man]

I have some original shrouds , PM me a phone # and I'll get you some pictures .

[flashed]

I bought a new shroud from Southern Kentucky Classic and it fit fine and looks good too .My truck is a 72 w/a 350 .

[Grumpy old man]

Originally Posted by flashed

I bought a new shroud from Southern Kentucky Classic and it fit fine and looks good too .My truck is a 72 w/a 350 .

What did it cost ?

[flashed]

I dont remember the cost but it did not seem too bad at the time as mine was broken and put back together with parts of a coffee can .I also bought an aluminum 4 core radiator from them as my vintage air was causing it to run a bit hotter than I cared for especially in slow traffic.

[dave`12]

Man, been lookin around. gets expensive fast. Opinions on electric vs mechanical?

any chance my original 2 core will suffice? or can I use the tank and have a radiator shop put in a 3 or 4 core?

thanx

[dave`12]

also would like to know if the aluminum ones are that much better?

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by dave`12

any chance my original 2 core will suffice? or can I use the tank and have a radiator shop put in a 3 or 4 core?

If your two-row is in good condition, it should work fine with a stock or near-stock 350. You should still run a shroud and clutch fan, or a good electric setup. I saw somewhere that 2-row rads have larger channels than 3 or 4-rows and will work nearly as well. My K20 with factory air came with a 2-row and it ran cool enough. Whatever you decide on, use a recovery tank and a cap for a closed-system. That'll keep your rad full to the top and prevent coolant from puking on the ground.

[dave`12]

Thanx for the input Stocker. I've been considering trying my radiator to save money. I may do just what you said, then watch it close.

[SparkyRnD]

We also make radiators here in the USA using domestically sourced materials by hand to fit your truck (and we can put the inlet / outlet wherever you need at no additional charge). They are all tig welded, no epoxy or glue either. Plus, we are a site sponsor. Let me know if you are interested.

[dave`12]

I bought a beautiful 4 core aluminum radiator from Jegs for only 189.00. Guaranteed to fit. Of course it didn't. And the OEM shroud does not line up with it very well either. An oem clutch fan completes the package, but is some 3 inches too far away and will need a spacer between the waterpump and fan.

Of course a bit of fabricating will make it all work, but it sure would be nice to find someone who sells something that actually fits when they say it will.

@sparky - went to your site, beautiful stuff, but a little out of my budget build. I'll bet the fit would be perfect.

[Stocker]

Originally Posted by dave`12

And the OEM shroud does not line up with it very well either. An oem clutch fan completes the package, but is some 3 inches too far away and will need a spacer between the waterpump and fan.

A clutch fan typically does not require a spacer, at least in my limited experience. You may just have the wrong shroud (not long enough) or the engine may possibly be mounted further rearward. Grasping at straws, I know, but it doesn't seem like a fan spacer should be needed. Might be the cheapest/easiest fix at this point, though....

[dave`12]

I mounted the engine in the I6 location. It's pretty far back. It's an OEM shroud and pretty deep. Interestingly, the spacer that was factory in my I6 is the perfect length, but the bolt pattern is off.

[Z10]

Originally Posted by Stocker

If your two-row is in good condition, it should work fine with a stock or near-stock 350. You should still run a shroud and clutch fan, or a good electric setup. I saw somewhere that 2-row rads have larger channels than 3 or 4-rows and will work nearly as well. My K20 with factory air came with a 2-row and it ran cool enough. Whatever you decide on, use a recovery tank and a cap for a closed-system. That'll keep your rad full to the top and prevent coolant from puking on the ground.

Here's some light reading on radiators. And yes a 2 row is more efficient that a 3 or 4. It's counter intuitive.

http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/gener...rass-tech.html

Also, I've been running this radiator for over 2 years and 10,000 miles. It's a direct drop in and around $220.00

http://www.speedcooling.com/1967_197..._Radiator.html

[dave`12]

Thanx for bumming me out, Z10.

Here is the radiator I got. It's 4 core aluminum. Since I'm replacing the OEM probably 50 year old radiator, I'm sure I will get some advantage.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Champion-Cooli...MC369/10002/-1

Could have sworn I paid 189.00 + shipping, will have to double check. At any rate, I already put it in.

[SparkyRnD]

We get a lot of former Champion customers. Be careful and watch for leaks where they used epoxy (we never use epoxy)

[Z10]

Originally Posted by dave`12

Thanx for bumming me out, Z10.

Here is the radiator I got. It's 4 core aluminum. Since I'm replacing the OEM probably 50 year old radiator, I'm sure I will get some advantage.

http://www.jegs.com/i/Champion-Cooli...MC369/10002/-1

Could have sworn I paid 189.00 + shipping, will have to double check. At any rate, I already put it in.

Sorry Dave, google is your friend. Don't feel too bad, I was going to use a 4 core also, until I slowed down and did a little research.

[jrburb]

Originally Posted by dave`12

I have a 67 c10. it came with a 2 core radiator with nothing much of a shroud. I'm putting a 350 in the vehicle.

Does anyone know where I might find a suitable kit with a radiator and shroud designed to work together that can handle the new engine? I live in south florida where it gets quite hot and the vehicle has a/c, so I'm thinking a 3 core and a good shroud will be necessary.

also fan advice appreciated.

thanx

This could help, check it out.

http://www.coldcaseradiators.com