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Old 06-20-2018, 10:26 AM   #1
LDO
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Advice on this gun

I am thinking about buying this gun.

Devilbliss Finishline FLG-4 from TP Tools. Comes with 1.3, 1.5, & 1.8 tips.

http://www.tptools.com/DeVILBISS-Fin...-Kit,7172.html


This will be my first paint job and I'll probably be using the Blitz Black from John Deer.

Any members here have any experience with this gun?

thank you in advance.
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Old 06-20-2018, 12:41 PM   #2
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Re: Advice on this gun

I have one. I only use for primer and utility stuff. It's not going to be a base clear gun but will probably do fine on single stage solvent based materials. It should be fine on alkyd enamels like the JD paint.
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Old 06-21-2018, 01:58 PM   #3
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Re: Advice on this gun

First off I want to say that I'm not a professional and I'm probably just like you who would like to start painting your own projects. I'm doing a 72 k10 with all the rust repair and body filler needs. I've posted questions here and got great advice and also did alot of research online and YouTube. I did spray some epoxy primer from SPI a couple of weeks ago with great results through a cheap Harbor freight gun ,but from what I've read and talked to others guys is that the gun will work great multiple times then start messing up. So I decided to buy another gun for primer incase this happens while painting and it came today . It's a devilbiss flg4 678 with the 1.8 and 2.2 tips which is actually the same as the flg4 670 but with different tips and you can also interchange them also. I have the flg4 670 to spray my base and clear but haven't got that far yet to try it. If I was you get on YouTube and type in The Gunman as he has done several videos on the flg and also lots of other guns that he has reviewed also. You'll see for a weekend warrior it's a pretty good gun and can do alot of different things. But also remember everyone has a different opinion about the same product. I think you'll be fine with this gun .
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Old 06-21-2018, 05:39 PM   #4
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Re: Advice on this gun

I am also no expert either but I use that gun. I did lot of searching and looking at reviews for that gun and found a lot of positives about it. I have only used it a few times for a base coat clear coat and it sprayed really well. I didn't want to spend big bucks on a gun that I will only use a few times. I also have a set of cheapo guns that I use for primers. I think they came in a kit of 3 for $60.00.
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Old 06-21-2018, 07:11 PM   #5
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Re: Advice on this gun

Thanks Gents! I appreciate the comments from guys especially, those who have actually used/owned this particular gun. TP Tools has this at a pretty decent price so I'm gonna pull the trigger and start practicing my technique so I can do a good job on 'game day'.

more to follow.
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Old 06-22-2018, 09:06 AM   #6
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Re: Advice on this gun

Quote:
Originally Posted by Jcfcamaro View Post
First off I want to say that I'm not a professional and I'm probably just like you who would like to start painting your own projects. I'm doing a 72 k10 with all the rust repair and body filler needs. I've posted questions here and got great advice and also did alot of research online and YouTube. I did spray some epoxy primer from SPI a couple of weeks ago with great results through a cheap Harbor freight gun ,but from what I've read and talked to others guys is that the gun will work great multiple times then start messing up. So I decided to buy another gun for primer incase this happens while painting and it came today . It's a devilbiss flg4 678 with the 1.8 and 2.2 tips which is actually the same as the flg4 670 but with different tips and you can also interchange them also. I have the flg4 670 to spray my base and clear but haven't got that far yet to try it. If I was you get on YouTube and type in The Gunman as he has done several videos on the flg and also lots of other guns that he has reviewed also. You'll see for a weekend warrior it's a pretty good gun and can do alot of different things. But also remember everyone has a different opinion about the same product. I think you'll be fine with this gun .

You are spot on with your reply here , I purchased the same gun as he is looking at , I also shot my Cab with SPI epoxy with this gun with great
results , then shot the inside of the cab with base and started to have issues with the gun laying clear . I had to switch guns at that point , I called Devilbliss and they sent me out a rebuild kit (for free ) after doing the rebuild at some point I tryed to use the gun again to shoot some rims and the problem came back as I was shooting the rims ,again leaving me to switch guns , They have excellent customer service ,but I have not yet been able to complete one project with this gun. on the other hand the Iwatta I have has never let me down in any stage of painting although it was expensive to set up to clear coat and spay diffrent base paints .
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Old 06-22-2018, 10:03 AM   #7
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Re: Advice on this gun

I know one thing, paint guns are no different than wrenches, you need a bunch! So having that gun to use on some things and another for the basecoat isn't an issue. If you were to use that for only primer for instance, I have four guns modern for this reason!

I have a number more that are now just garage art. LOL

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Old 06-22-2018, 10:06 AM   #8
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Re: Advice on this gun

I picked this one up for primers....

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...4729_200324729
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Old 06-22-2018, 10:07 AM   #9
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Re: Advice on this gun

Quote:
Originally Posted by LDO View Post
Thanks Gents! I appreciate the comments from guys especially, those who have actually used/owned this particular gun. TP Tools has this at a pretty decent price so I'm gonna pull the trigger and start practicing my technique so I can do a good job on 'game day'.

more to follow.
Definitely you want to paint a BUNCH before you shoot the outside. Shoot all the frame and hinges and stuff like that, shoot the jambs, the dash all that stuff, there is a ton of things you need to shoot anyway that you can get practice on.

And you can also go to a body shop and get a few fenders they are throwing out and practice on them. We have given panels out of the metal bin to guys for this a few times over the years where I work. A Honda fender, it weights less than your car keys so it's easy to carry around and work on. Spend the time and the few bucks on the paint and clear to get comfortable spraying.

Brian
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Old 06-22-2018, 10:13 AM   #10
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Re: Advice on this gun

Quote:
Originally Posted by LDO View Post
I picked this one up for primers....

https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...4729_200324729
That is a little big, you need to watch out using that big of a tip on urethane primers and sealers as you can trap solvents. It's really pushing it to polyurethane primer use with that 2.0 tip.

Now I just used a 2.0 tip on my epoxy primer inside the cab, but it was because of the guns design that I used it. And it PILED on that primer! http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=765811

I WILL NOT be using that big of a tip on the outside or dash or anything that needs the primer applied properly.

Now understand, you can get away with it, if it's warm out, if you have fast gun movement, little overlap, a bunch of factors can keep down the film thickness and solvent being applied so you don't trap it. So you can get away with it, I just grab a different gun to solve the problem.

Solvent entrapment is the number one, NUMBER 1 cause of paint failures hands down. So you want to do anything you can to avoid it.

Brian
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Old 06-22-2018, 10:21 AM   #11
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Re: Advice on this gun

Martin,
what does it mean to trap solvents?

Maybe I could get a 1.8 or 1.7 tip for this gun?
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Old 06-22-2018, 11:03 AM   #12
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Re: Advice on this gun

traping solvents ,in a nutshell he is saying that the chemical make up of the product needs to release gases as it changes from its liquid state to a dry material
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Old 06-22-2018, 11:23 AM   #13
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Re: Advice on this gun

Quote:
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traping solvents ,in a nutshell he is saying that the chemical make up of the product needs to release gases as it changes from its liquid state to a dry material
Not so much the "Chemical makeup" being that could remain the same and the solvents can be trapped or not depending on how it is shot, "wet" or "dry."

Now the true definition of "chemical makeup" could be something different than what I picture being my degree is in cardiology. , double

In a nut shell, it's the solvent (reducer, thinner, what ever) that is designed to LEAVE the film once it's applied....doesn't leave!

Product applied too heavily, for instance, the top surface of the film flashes off with the solvents leaving fast enough to "harden" up a bit (be it "drying" or be it "curing"*) and then the solvents that are down in the film under that hardened layer get "trapped." This is the cause for "die back" when the gloss is lost a few weeks after the thing was painted and buffed and drove off with a beautiful shiny paint.

Trapping solvents can occur when too slow of reducer is used for the temp of the metal and shop, or over reducing trying to get it to "flow" (a BIG no-no) or too much overlap, too many coats, too short of time between coats...get the picture?

Spray it as per the tech sheets, and it's going to work for you.

Brian



* From the "Basics of Basics" on Paint technology:
“1K” This is a product that uses no hardener, catalyst, activator, etc. It may have an added solvent, but no hardener or activating reducer. 1K products like RTS dry with the evaporation of solvents and are soluble, meaning that they are could be wiped off with a rag soaked with lacquer thinner. They could in THEORY be scraped off and put in a can with solvent and stirred back to a sprayable condition. Of course ALL RTS products are 1K. Examples: All lacquer products, some synthetic enamel products, and some acrylic enamel products. Because of the low VOC regulations the 1K product options are getting scarce, with most limited to “specialty products” like adhesion promoters.

“2K” or “Two component” is any product that uses a hardener, activator, catalyst, etc. It may or may not use a third component in the form of a solvent. 2K products don’t “dry” like a 1K. The 2K product “cures” by molecules linking together to form a whole new compound. Most high quality 2Ks are insoluble after a full cure and will not soften when exposed to solvents like thinners or gas. Examples are urethane under coats and top coats. Epoxies, ISO free products that use a hardener, etc.

Basic tip, ALL 2K products should be mixed as accurately as possible. As a rule 2K products need a minimum of 55 degrees to cure with an ideal minimum of 65 degrees. MIX THEM AS DESCRIBED BY THE MANUFACTURE. They have spent hundreds of thousands, possibly millions of dollars developing the product, they WANT it to work as BEST it can. Do as they say, don’t become a “Junior Chemist”.
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Old 06-22-2018, 04:36 PM   #14
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Re: Advice on this gun

I'm split between buying the FLG 4 and the FLG 5. The FLG 5 gets much higher reviews for a lesser price.

I have painted a number of trucks over the years. Most of my trucks have been daily drivers. I can't drop 3-4-5 grand on paint and then head to the fields, bushes, ponds, etc. etc. So I spray myself on these.


I'm still debating on the next gun. I had a 72 K5 some years back and knocked it out of the park with a Binks Model #7 siphon gun. That gun was used to shoot everything from primer to paint and used to stain wood cabinets and then glue for formica tops. It was a beast in its day.


Like the above posted, it is nice to have a great gun, but a great gun will not make a great painter. I'm an amateur and I still practice on old panels.


Post what you think as an amateur with the FLG-4. I'm interested as I am still 'in the market'.

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Old 06-22-2018, 09:01 PM   #15
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Re: Advice on this gun

Link to the flg5???&
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Old 06-22-2018, 09:31 PM   #16
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Re: Advice on this gun

spraygunsdirect.com
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Old 06-26-2018, 04:13 PM   #17
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Re: Advice on this gun

https://sprayfinishingstore.com/prod...starting-line/

Quote:
The FinishLine FLG-5 also targets automotive refinishing but with Trans-Tech(LVMP) air caps instead of HVLP and a lower number of nozzle sizes. However, the air consumption can be around 30% lower which should be considered when choosing the right air compressor.

The FinishLine FLG-4 is also suitable for automotive refinishing (1.3, 1.5, 1.8mm for base coat, clear coat & primer) but also for general industrial finishing applications. The nozzle size of 2.2mm and the option of conventional air atomization allows the spraying of higher-viscosity materials, also in connection with a pressure tank if needed.
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Old 06-28-2018, 12:03 AM   #18
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Re: Advice on this gun

Hey guys, I found these on Amazon and grabbed them. Getting close to shooting epoxy, I can report back on my experience. Have any of you tried or have these? Here is the link, I thought price was low, was I correct? Check them out.....https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1
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Old 06-30-2018, 08:28 AM   #19
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Re: Advice on this gun

I watched one youtube video that said they were complete garbage.

The very next video said the primer gun with the larger tip worked great for epoxies and heavier primers (fillers/high build). The gun for base/clear not so much.


And then the next video shows a DIY guy build a homemade booth in his garage, use this set up for both primers and paint/clears and the car turned out exceptional.


Like most tools it is the guy turning the wrench (spray gun) as much as it is the tool itself (in a lot of cases)

I just sprayed the inside of my top recently. I used a $10 Harbor Freight gun with a 2.0 tip to spray the epoxy. I had one hiccup as I left a little bit of the 'goo' they treat the inner parts of the gun with to stop up the tip. A quick mid-spray cleaning and the gun really did a good job with the epoxy. I have another 'bo-bo' internet gun ($40-50) that I shot the paint with and I think it turned out incredible. (Granted the texture on the top is really, really forgiving, but it looks great still the same)


With all that babbling, let us know what you think about your guns. I'm still in the market for a new gun. And my trucks are daily drivers, hunters, fishers, trailer pullers, and weekend cruisers so I can't see $5-6-800 for a spray gun. One the cost but two, my skill set would not know the difference.


Scott
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Old 06-30-2018, 09:04 PM   #20
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Re: Advice on this gun

Scott,
I agree with you. Most of the time, when I buy a tool, I make my decision based on advice/reviews, my gut and then what my budget will allow. I try to get the best quality that does the job while maintaining a budget.

I did find this atom x20 spray gun here and went for it.

https://www.zoolaa.com/collections/s...onal-spray-gun

I haven't sprayed with it yet but so far, I am very happy with the quality of this gun.
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Old 07-01-2018, 02:56 PM   #21
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Re: Advice on this gun

A step up to the GFG-670 would be a smart move for just a little more money. I have a SATA 4000 RP, and have used a friend's 670. They spray pretty similar, with the 670 being slightly slower and more controllable. Both give incredible results.
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Old 07-06-2018, 10:04 PM   #22
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Re: Advice on this gun

I have the primer kit version of this gun, and it’s awesome. I was trying to use a regular gun for primer and epoxy, but would always “burn thru”. With this gun i get enough material on to do some fine sanding and really shape my panels. Now for my finish gun i have the sata 5000 rp and hvlp.

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