Bolt on mustang ii

[northern 49]

I didn't have anything that extreme. As I said I had to use a big punch to line things up a bit and now that I think of it I did use a couple of big C-clamps over the side of the frame rail and under the crossmember to close any gaps between the frame and boxing plates and that helped line things up too. Maybe do some cross measurements on your frame and check the level of all your cross members to make sure the frame isn't twisted.

[67GMCkid]

When you lay your boxing plates on the bench, how well did the pre drilled holes in them align with the template? If they line up on the bench but not in the truck, it would be the truck...


If it weren't for a strip of snow 15' in length and 6' deep I would offer you my template..

[mobileortho]

Well after lots of prying, redrilling and lots of cussing, I finally got it bolted in!

[northern 49]

Good to hear you got that thing beat!

[solidaxel]

Does everything fit ?

[mobileortho]

It fits, but as mentioned, I had to redrill some of the holes. I still think the bulk of the problems was due to the template. Thinking back, it was taller than the framerails and most of the holes were off. For peace of mind, I'm going to throw a few tack welds on it.

[mobileortho]

Started installing the spindles and have a question. They came with two different sized washers. From what I've been able to find on the web, the larger of the two goes on first after the spindle is on the ball joint, then the smaller. What I'm finding is that after everything is installed, the spindle won't turn, it hits the top of the upper control arm If I back off the nut, it seems too loose. Am I missing something?? Looks like I can use the grinder to remove some if the material...

[Hakang]

Originally Posted by mobileortho

Started installing the spindles and have a question. They came with two different sized washers. From what I've been able to find on the web, the larger of the two goes on first after the spindle is on the ball joint, then the smaller. What I'm finding is that after everything is installed, the spindle won't turn, it hits the top of the upper control arm If I back off the nut, it seems too loose. Am I missing something?? Looks like I can use the grinder to remove some if the material...

I have the same problem, I had to do some grinding. Also good for the boot that had contact to the sharp edge before.

[mobileortho]

Seems like it shouldn't "crush" the boot this much. I noticed this on the bottom too. I had to use an additional spacer so that the castle nut would come closer to the hole for the cotter pin.

[mobileortho]

So I guess it's not meant for me to have this setup!�� With the spindles installed they will not turn by hand. I don't see what they could be hanging up on. I placed a jack under the control arm and it turns but not as smooth as I think they should. On top of that one of tthe upper ball joints is toast. I'm about ready to scrap this crap & reinstall the c10. At least I know it works!

[shrek55]

Pictures are'nt that good-- do you have the knuckles upside down ?? Or possibly the ball joints mixed up ??

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by shrek55

Pictures are'nt that good-- do you have the knuckles upside down ?? Or possibly the ball joints mixed up ??

Here's a better shot. The joints were already installed. Notice how the spindle bottoms out on the top of the joints, I had to use two spacers to get the castle nut high enough to line up with the hole for the cotter pin.

[Iceburgh]

Not reading through the entire thread it looks like the kit from gearhead worked out.
I got one from the that was a weld in unit. For the most part it was a good unit. many of the parts are dropped ship from numerous manufacturers including TCI and others.
I did have a problem with the sway bar was not long enough. I never did get the problem resolved. I simply bought one that would work.
For that reason I would not go back to gearhead but everything else was as advertised.

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by Iceburgh

Not reading through the entire thread it looks like the kit from gearhead worked out.

Not even close. either the ball joints are totally wrong or the spindle is garbage. I called them this morning for resolution, they're supposed to be calling me back....we'll see. Don't think I'll be ordering anything else from them.

[Iceburgh]

I also had to grind the spindles

[67GMCkid]

The spring rate is 325 -1 meaning the spring is going compress 1" for every 325 lbs placed on them.. Continue putting your hubs and wheels on and then let the truck down and watch how the geometry and clearances change.

[northern 49]

Originally Posted by 67GMCkid

The spring rate is 325 -1 meaning the spring is going compress 1" for every 325 lbs placed on them.. Continue putting your hubs and wheels on and then let the truck down and watch how the geometry and clearances change.

I was thinking the same kind of thing. You have to remember that when everything thing is put back together and all the weight is back on the suspension your lower control arms should be parallel to the ground. That should free things up a bit. Right now your springs are pushing the arms to the bottom of their range of motion and once the truck is back on the ground the arms will rarely extend that far again unless you jack it up or you are out pretending you are one of the Duke boys. And some of these springs do require trimming to achieve final ride height once they have been given a chance to settle for a few miles.

[northern 49]

"Our Mustang II springs come in rates from 275 thru 425 and in 13.5” free height/length. They will require cutting to the necessary length on the majority of applications."
This is from speedway motors on their Mustang ii coils. I am sure tci and heidts say the same kind of thing.

[67GMCkid]

In the kit I bought the springs were stamped with the Moog 4 digit part #.. Made it real easy to identify which ones I had, If memory serves they were the 325-1

[oldman3]

Originally Posted by northern 49

I was thinking the same kind of thing. You have to remember that when everything thing is put back together and all the weight is back on the suspension your lower control arms should be parallel to the ground. That should free things up a bit. Right now your springs are pushing the arms to the bottom of their range of motion and once the truck is back on the ground the arms will rarely extend that far again unless you jack it up or you are out pretending you are one of the Duke boys. And some of these springs do require trimming to achieve final ride height once they have been given a chance to settle for a few miles.

I would say 98 % of you problems will go away when you have full weight on the front suspension. Your lower control arm should be parallel with the bottom of crossmember. Top arm should be above the top hat, this will change the angle of the arm, ball joint and spindle. I don't have access to pictures now to show what I'm talking about. If you go to my build thread and back about 4 pages from last page I switch over to coil over and the pictures there might help...Jim

[mobileortho]

Ok, I'll take you guys word for it & keep moving forward. Next chance I get, I'll lower it onto some stands to see what happens. Keeping my fingers crossed.

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by 67GMCkid

In the kit I bought the springs were stamped with the Moog 4 digit part #.. Made it real easy to identify which ones I had, If memory serves they were the 325-1

Did you have to cut yours?

[67GMCkid]

No, I haven't altered anything from the way it was when I unpacked it.. My thought was,, (right or wrong) is that the adjustable top hat would do the fine tuning. I don't have a motor or trans in mine as of yet either so any trimming of the springs could have me way to low..

[mobileortho]

Originally Posted by oldman3

I would say 98 % of you problems will go away when you have full weight on the front suspension. Your lower control arm should be parallel with the bottom of crossmember. Jim

That did it! Problem solved! Thanks everyone for the tips! Feeling much better about the swap! Got a chance to mount the engine. Everything had to be moved forward roughly two inches, definitely gotta find a longer drive shaft. Also eyeballed the power rack, looks like I may have to notch or grind a bit off the crossmember to get it to fit.

[mobileortho]

Working on the steering linkage and brake lines. I'm mocking up the linkage with dowl rods and noticed that on the u joint connected to the rack, there's a set screw and lock nut that hits the side of the crossmember. I don't want to have to notch it so to solve this, I'm thinking I can shorten the set screw so that when tightened its flush, then use some loctite to keep it from backing out. Any foreseeable problems with this?

Secondly, I need some ideas on where to run the rubber brake lines. In front or behind the spring saddle?

Pics of both the brake lines & linkage setups are appreciated.