Novice and wiring

[4thgencreamsicle]

I am a complete novice and am dealing with a fuse that blows every time we get the rig to turn over.
It’s a ‘69 c10 that was my great grandpa’s. I am determined to get this truck running. It’s original engine was at some point replaced with a ‘73 crate engine.

My hubby is a truck guy, currently working on his own rig. He’s happy to help me but I’d like to do most of the wrench turning on my own.

It’s a 20A fuse that comes off the battery cable. I will attempt to attach a pic, kinda awkward to do on my iPad. Hopefully it works.

[harpo231]

looks like direct current to ground

[demian5]

I don't think that is supposed to be fused. Maybe a fusible link wire instead, going to that block.

[PanelDeland]

That should be a fuseable link. It probably burned at some point and was replaced. You can try a new one but if they didn't fix the short that caused it to burn out it may do it again. That will require doing some electrical troubleshooting. I don't have a quick link but search for wiring diagrams and start familiarizing yourself with them, you'll need to at some point so now is the time to start learning.

[demian5]

Originally Posted by PanelDeland

That should be a fuseable link. It probably burned at some point and was replaced. You can try a new one but if they didn't fix the short that caused it to burn out it may do it again. That will require doing some electrical troubleshooting. I don't have a quick link but search for wiring diagrams and start familiarizing yourself with them, you'll need to at some point so now is the time to start learning.

Or try a 30A fuse in that!

[paul blair]

Is that the ground cable in your hand? If so you have a direct short to ground. The wire with the fuse able link goes to the positive battery terminal and is part of the charging system...go to the search and look for the wire diagram for your truck.

[RichardJ]

The starter solenoid has two windings. A pull-in and a hold-in winding. Together they draw close to 50 Amps, to initially engage the solenoid. The pull-in winding only draws current for a split second or until the starter motor starts turning. The hold-in winding draws about 10 Amps alone, which is while the starter is turning and cranking the engine.

If a 20 A fuse ever worked there, it must have been a super slooow blow fuse. A 40 Amp fuse may have worked there, but I would expect that it too would periodically pop.

The starter motor draws 200-300 Amps, but that's carried by the starter cable only. That current is severely limited by those bolt on cable repair clamps.

[VetteVet]

Ask and you shall receive:


This is just the engine bay.\





The trucks came with a 30 amp fusible link.

[elkniks]

That gray section from the butt connector to the fender terminal looks like factory fusible link. You are going to need a new piece of fusible link and remove the fuse.

[dmjlambert]

I went through this last year. Things that weren't clear to me at the time were:

1. clamp on repair terminals are just a bad idea. They are complete junk and cause problems. Car parts store pre-built terminals are also junk and the clamps break. My opinions. I recommend getting ACDelco ACD# 4BC53X GM# 88860050 from your Chevy dealer. More info: http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=734496

2. what exactly is a fusible link, was not clear to me. As I understand it now after research and experience: a proper battery cable has a molded-on terminal that connects to the battery, with one large wire coming out of it and one 12 gauge smaller wire. That 12 gauge smaller wire should be connected to a fusible link wire, which is a 6 to 9 inch piece of thinner wire with a special insulation on it, and the other end of the fusible link wire is what connects to the terminal block on the fender. The fusible link wire is 2 wire sizes smaller than the 12 gauge red wire that runs from the battery across the top of the radiator support, to the alternator and to the cab. 2 wire sizes smaller means it is 16 gauge. This fusible link wire is intended to burn up and destroy itself before the 12 gauge wire does, and the insulation on it does not flame but it does smoke a lot. So it protects the wiring in your truck that is not otherwise protected by fuses. That 12 gauge wire runs all the way from the battery to the alternator and to inside the cab, and from there goes to other places like the headlight switch, and through the start switch and back out into the engine bay to the starter solenoid, without being fuse protected. So, if you get a short somewhere in all that length of wire, you want the fusible link to go ahead and burn up instead of burning all the 12 gauge wire throughout your truck.

3. always disconnect the neg battery terminal when working on anything electrical in your truck.

If any of this stuff is substandard on your truck, I recommend fixing that and this is an especially worthwhile area to buy good stuff. It doesn't cost hundreds of dollars, but does cost at least dozens of dollars.

[rockyrivermark]

That cable is black. Did it come off the negative of the battery?

[4thgencreamsicle]

Thanks everyone. My hubby helped me understand the wiring diagram tonight as I was pulling spark plugs. We’ll replace that section of wire and we found a section of the big purple wire that has a gash in it so we’ll fix that too.

I started laughing as I read all the comments so far and y’all got a serious “bless your heart.” When I said complete novice, you obviously have no idea how complete that is 😬.
There’s a ton I need to learn and I’m really trying but everything online assumes that I know what things are (like an alternator, starter, coil, distributor, etc.). Seriously. Those are all things I had to look up today. Granted I have heard all these terms all my life, I’ve handed tools to my dad as he rebuilt a 36 Ford pu and as my hubby rebuilt a 74 Ford pu. But it’s my turn to work!

If anyone knows a good site for complete novices to learn how everything works I’d really love the help.

[Steeveedee]

Originally Posted by 4thgencreamsicle

Thanks everyone. My hubby helped me understand the wiring diagram tonight as I was pulling spark plugs. We’ll replace that section of wire and we found a section of the big purple wire that has a gash in it so we’ll fix that too.

I started laughing as I read all the comments so far and y’all got a serious “bless your heart.” When I said complete novice, you obviously have no idea how complete that is ��.
There’s a ton I need to learn and I’m really trying but everything online assumes that I know what things are (like an alternator, starter, coil, distributor, etc.). Seriously. Those are all things I had to look up today. Granted I have heard all these terms all my life, I’ve handed tools to my dad as he rebuilt a 36 Ford pu and as my hubby rebuilt a 74 Ford pu. But it’s my turn to work!

If anyone knows a good site for complete novices to learn how everything works I’d really love the help.

This is the place! Just stick around, and all the helpful people here will get you squared away. I haven't really seen any bad attitudes, so you should be OK. You can't expect to gain knowledge quickly, though. You're going to have to get greasy and make a few mistakes before you get good at it. Ask as many questions as you need to, to get it right. That will save you a ton of money.

By the way, electrical is the toughest part of working on any vehicle. You will see that by the lack of responses, in any electrical problem thread. If it was brakes, people would be all over it. I'm not criticizing anyone here for that- it's why you see shops that specialize in electrical repair, besides regular repair shops.

[4thgencreamsicle]

[QUOTE=dmjlambert;8168659

1. clamp on repair terminals are just a bad idea. They are complete junk and cause problems. Car parts store pre-built terminals are also junk and the clamps break. [/QUOTE]

That was one of the first things my hubby said we’ll fix is getting good battery cables, especially since both are black right now.

[VetteVet]

Post your electrical problems here and we'll have you showing your hubby how to fix problems.



http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/f...aysprune=&f=64

[dmjlambert]

The GM cable I recommend is black. I believe stock was black.

[elkniks]

That purple wire is the one that pulls in your starter solenoid. That could be the reason you are having problems when you ask it to crank.

[71CHEVYSHORTBED402]

Originally Posted by dmjlambert

The GM cable I recommend is black. I believe stock was black.

You are correct. From my edging-on-cation both were black. Couldn't tell you when red was introduced on a GM.

[stsalvage]

one thing you need is some one in your area that has a truck that is not a show truck just one that is just like yours.But with all the right parts.You need one that is all factory.One that has all the right brackets for the alt Air conditioning.If yours had AC if yours had A heater only where all the hoses goes.I like M&H re pop wire harnesses you can buy them from Brothers.Com or Carandtruckshop.com One is in Corona Ca the Carandtruckshop is in Orange Calif.

Seeing one that you can take pictures of and get a idea of what is wrong with yours and what is suppose to be right.The engine and head light harness are the cheapest.

I like the full on factory harness.its a plug and play system.I have pictures of the re pop wire harness the engine harness comes with the gutter that bolts to the top ledge where the top of your hood closes there are 3 holes for small screws.

That harness will be for the Temp Coil wire brake wire starter wire.
If your running HEI distributor on the 1973 and later truck they make a plug for the coil that sits on top of your HEI distributor 1 plug.

No cutting or wire nuts or connectors.its one of the cleanest systems and it works in the 12 year span of trucks i own from 1960--72

Now your light harness is all in one harness with all your plugs everything is Brand new.There is no cutting or wire nutting.its made to fit all the factory parts like Alt voltage regulator Light bulbs side markers horn blinkers.Plus when you buy New less chance of a fire..

The last harness is the main harness in side the cab.that one is expensive at $500.00.But if you chose to do it right do it all.You will love your self for spending 900 to 1100.00 for new alt starter regulator HEI distributor and all the rubber peaces that hold your harness to the fire wall.

You will never have a short again tour truck will be so dependable you will never look at a new truck again the same

[stsalvage]

This is more of the things to look for.If you are trying to go back factory.If you have headers.You may run a different routing way how you put your plug wire's to your spark plugs but if your running the old ram horns from the factory and if your Running HEI run the 1973 or 1974 Corvette HEI wire's.Do to the Corvette in 1973 still used the Ram horn exhaust manifolds and in 1973 HEI came out.The Plug wire are ment to run throw the motor mounts for 1-3 and 2-4 spark plugs.Plus it keeps your plug wires from on top of the motor and makes your engine bay more cleaner here look for your self's

I've added picks for the right alt brackets that should be on your chevy truck from 1969 and above but they can be used on 1964--72..Make sure you buy the rear wire plug brackets for the back side of your motor to keep the wires separated Use WD40 on the plug boots to pull gentle on the boot it should just put off use plenty of lube in side the boot.

They make a clip that you have to remove one of your center oil pan bolts for this clip for 2 of your plug wires so they wont hang down to far.

The pulleys i show you on the hood work with that ALT bracket 2 for the crank 1 gove pulley for the water pump.

Plus you need to use the 283 or 327 short water pump they used that set up to 1972 for the short water pump.Alt are not mounted to the passenger side of the motor for any of the 1964--72 chevy trucks

[demian5]

Originally Posted by elkniks

butt connector

lol

[harpo231]

Totally confused yet ?

[stsalvage]

Me i rather see something done then then you showing me a spread sheet.

I work for a tire shop for 5 years My boss said if there is no car's to be serviced you will work on my projects.He had a nitch of finding good car and truck body's that did not need to much body work.

he had a 7 bay tire shop witch he owned.2 of the bay's where for his projects.he had 2 lifts per bay Yes a 8500 sq foot shop with up stares storage for parts.

From the time i was there We did 4 Chevelle's 7 Camaro's and the reat where 1964--72 chevy trucks and 2 blazer's and 1 1966 carry all 4X4 and 3 3 door suburbans.This guy would buy in bulk carpet kits wire harnesses head liners sound deading anything that we needed it was there for us to pull it.He should of been in the collector car sale business.People come to have there tires or mufflers done there. He sell one every month for 10K back in 1999.I loved working on the trucks i go so good about wiring the trucks and camaro's.He wanted me to do them all.Plus he told me.Use the right brackets for alt and AC units or the pulleys will never line up.He was the one that showed me about the wires throe the motor mounts.

This is a call for guys like me and my boss.We can go in and see a problem in less then 3 mins.

We have the fix.But its up to the person that is wanting a driving truck or a problem child.

I've been in 2 car's of friends that put them together with wire tape and BS .Both of them burn to the ground a week after they started driving them.

Pay now or pay later

[harpo231]

[elkniks]

Originally Posted by harpo231

I concur.