47-55.1 Power Remote Locks with OEM Door locks and latches

[65blackfleetside]

A few people have inquired about wanting to add power locks to their AD trucks.
I thought it would be helpful to do a write up on this subject rather as to what I did

Here is the system that I installed. It works well. I feel that it also works as a anti theft to device due the fact that the manual control inside the cab is mounted low out of sight of a potential thief.

[65blackfleetside]

These lock mechanisms are made by autoloc. They have an aluminum housing and the bolt is approx 1.5" long fully extended.

The actuator is a heavy duty one. DO NOT use standard actuators. . I tried the autoloc brand actuator and they were not strong enough. You need at least 15 lb of power to throw these bolts open and to extend.

The actuators that I used were from Balls Rods.
I also purchased the remote keyless entry kit that balls sells.
I will post links to all of these things later today.

A question that I get often is: What happens when the battery dies?

I neverlock the truck when it is sitting in my locked garage.

If the battery does die in a parking lot somewhere?.. I can pull one of the side rear window (5 window cab) gasket cords and remove the window in less than a minute. Then reach my arm in and unlock the door manually.

[65blackfleetside]

Here is the assembly mounted in the door. Its important to mount the assembly low enough to be out of the way of the regulator in the "down" position or in my case power regulator if you are adding power windows.

The small access panel makes it easy to slide the assembly into the door.

Drilling the mounting holes requires lots of patience and there is little room for error so take your time her. the door has a curvature to it so this adds another obstacle.

To mount this you need two holes for screws and one larger hole for the manual control that faces inward.

It is difficult to see in this picture but the wires are all run through a small rubber but at the bottom of the jam out of the way of regulator and hinges.
I believe these are approx 1" in diameter. and 5" long.
I tried a pair of fancy steel braided ones but they were not big enough to hold the extra wire for power windows.

Side note:
Also in this picture there is a mounting bracket for a power window reg/motor mounted behind the access panel that I tried to make work from Balls Rods. Ignore it. It was a Complete waste of money and time for these curved AD doors. Balls did refund my money. I ended up going with the manual regulator style with motor attached. This is the only power Window set up worth fooling with for the 1949-1954 trucks.

[65blackfleetside]

You will need to use very slim line mounting bolts in order to fit into the jam. It may even help to grind a little off the top of bolt.

I used allen head bolts.

[65blackfleetside]

Also:
I will have to take my door panel off to snap a picture but I blocked off with a small bolt and nylon lock nut and flat washer the OEM lock mechanism inside the door. This allows the door latch and handle to open and close /latch as designed it just jeeps the OEM doors from locking.

The OEM key hole is passenger door is just a dummy.

[65blackfleetside]

Here is the link to keyless entry that I used:
https://www.ballsrodandkustom.com/in...t_detail&p=128

Here is the Actuator that is small in size (important) but powerful
https://www.ballsrodandkustom.com/in...ct_detail&p=46

Here is the autoloc door bolt assembly.
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/a...UaAkzhEALw_wcB

[Matt_50]

That manual switch looks low enough to be kinda hidden by the seat? And I like the idea of disabling the factory locks. A bolt is all that is needed to disable? Those are probably easy for a thief anyways.

So you lowered the window all the way and then found the spot for the Autoloc?


And for the door to cab wires... something like this down by the bottom hinge? I think it said a 1 inch by 5 inch rubber tube.

[65blackfleetside]

Matt

The third black rubber option with the 90's on it is exactly what worked the best for me. Use a sharp hole saw. You can do this with the door on. ( I originally tried the braided stainless in option three but would not hold all of the wires for power windows too. Just stick your drill inside the door with lower interior door panel off. Drill low speed and use cutting oil.

[Tempest67]

Thanks for the post '65fleetside',

My doors are off, and I think I will add that before they go back on.

[joedoh]

awesome tech tip 65!