72 2wd vs. 71 4x4 What to expect? How much to ask for clean 72?

[CliffB]

Just found this site. Thank you all, it is great!

I've had a 72 3/4 2wd longbed Custom Camper since 95 and just agreed to buy a 71 3/4 4x4. The 71 has 106K original miles and a new very nicely built 350 with new headers and exhaust while the 72 has 225K, and a 100K plus old rebuild and is not 4 wheel drive. Both are straight and clean with older paint.

I've wanted 4 wheel drive and I know the 71 owner and motor builder well. I couldn't resist the change. The 72 runs and drives great but the 71 is way more powerful and drives great too.

MY BIG QUESTION: What should I expect about the way the 4x4 drives compared to the 2wd (leaf rear) and are there many maintenance differences to the 4x4? I'm interested in your opinions.

Also, for restoration, I've collected all the lights, bezels, factory tach, interior parts, window felts, door seals, interior mat, dash pad and more for the 72. Luckily they aren't on the truck yet. Is anything very different (non driveline) between the 71 4x4 vs. the 72 2wd? Both are 3/4 ton fleetsides.

I'm hoping to use the vintage aluminum slotted mags on the 8 lug 2 wheel drive for the 4x4. Will they fit? The 2wd is a Custom Camper with the heavy duty Dana rear axle and suspension.

My next challenge is to price the 72 for sale and get it ready to go. I'm the third owner. Friend owned it since 1973. I have about $5,000 invested in it. Any opinons are most welcome. Here's the desciption:

Thanks in advance for any suggestions and opinions.

1972 Chevy Fleetside Pickup C20 ¾ ton Custom Camper, 8-foot bed. Dark green with white cab top.

2 prior owners, same owner from 1973 to 1995, straight, original, clean truck.
350 V8, Turbo350 Automatic Transmission, 2-wheel drive, 225,000 original miles.
Factory A/C (not charged), power brakes with front discs, power steering, auxiliary 15 plus gallon fuel tank with manual switch for feed and guage, sliding rear cab window, polished glove box lid, have original radio.
New front suspension and steering components, every part new by Moog at 210,000
Heavy-duty rear suspension with Dana rear end, 8 lug wheels.
Heavy-duty 2-inch trailer hitch receiver, Kelsey Hayes trailer brake controller, multiple trailer light connectors including 7 pin round.
New master brake cylinder with at 222,000 miles, new rear drums, shoes, springs, adjusters, rear axle seals at 210,000 miles.
New voltage regulator at 215,000 miles. Heavy-duty battery at 215,000 miles.
New exhaust system from headers back, 2 chamber Flowmaster 40 series mufflers with crossover pipe at 215,000 miles, tips angled back from sides behind rear wheels.
New tires at 220,000 miles.
Reason for sale: bought 1971 C20 4 wheel drive with 106,000 original miles.
Located in San Leandro, CA (San Francisco East Bay Area, off 580 near 238 interchange.

[CliffB]

Will a picture help with responses?

This is the 72 I'll probably sell. I'll keep the ladder rack and switch the aluminum mags for the 71 steel wheels as long as they are a fit. Anyone know if they will fit. Both are 8 lug 3/4 ton.

[CliffB]

One more of the 72.

[CliffB]

Looking for what I should ask for it. Description is in my first post.

[CliffB]

One more Pic.

[CliffB]

Thanks for reading my opening post above.

[GM72K10]

Welcome to the board.
Here's my 2 cents
I have two 72 4x4s, a K10 and a K25
Used to have a 71 C20 with leafs
Can say the way they ride (4x4s) depends on what you have in them and also your suspension.
My 72 K25 has stock suspension, rides very well, but is usually loaded (for work) or has a plow on it (as it does now)
My 72 K10 has stock suspension but usually has no weight in it because its "My take the kids to baseball, football, basketball truck" and it rides a little rougher.
Used to have a 69 K20 with 33s and that would ride a little rough unless it had weight in it.
It also depends on what you're used to.
Am slowly building a big block 72 4x4 Auto, we''ll have to see how that rides.
good Luck
GM

[Scrub]

Welcome to the board!

I think you need to get a couple bottles of wax and shine that girl up a bit and put it in truck trader. She's a pretty straight old rig and would be a good old rig to really fix up. I'm thinking $2,800

With no rust, you could do well back east as it is a classic and they all fell apart back there a while ago. Might try Ebay and stess the no rust point.

Your parts will all fit and driving is pretty much the same, except you won't get stuck as often.

[da-burb]

I would put that in the $2250 to 3000 range. Scrub is right about the wax job. It might even pay to have a pro detail it. It could easily add $500 to the price if the paint is respectable.

[da-burb]

And yes, your wheels will be a direct swap. You will only need new centers for the fronts so you can lock and unlock your hubs.

[Yukon Jack]

Any chance of you being able to keep the 72? Although it is a straight and good looking truck, you're not gonna get out of it what you have put in it. I'd try hard to find a way to just keep it. If you must sell, I would concur with the above price range.

[CliffB]

Thanks GM for your post and wishes. The only difference I notice is that the steering feel is better on the 2 wheel drive. The 4x4 feels a bit detached by comparison. Not loose, just different, probably the solid axle vs. the 2wd. Have fun with the big block. I have a 67 Chevelle 396 motor I couldn’t resist that I used to think would be a good motor for the pickup, but with a finished strong 350 available in the 71, it looks like the 396 motor will not get into the pickup. I couldn’t build a motor out of it for what the 71 cost.

Thanks Scrub, da-burb and Yukon Jack for your posts as well. I’m glad the wheels will fit. I like the old style. I’m glad my large part collection will fit also. The 72 paint was done when it was about 10 years old and is thin in places. I’ll give it a great detail for sure and bring it to the best it can be.

I found a post that showed price ranges by vehicle condition or Class Scale. It described condition as I copy below for Class 3 and 4 and it seemed to me the 72 is a somewhat better than a Class 4 in originality and recent mechanicals.

It showed pricing for 1970 - 72 as: 10,025 Class 1, 7,425 Class 2, 5,100 Class 3, 2,100 Class 4, 1,500 Class 5

3) VERY GOOD or CLASS 3 Condition: A completely operable original; or an older restoration showing wear; or amateur restoration. Also a combination of a well-done restoration and good condition original; or a complete, partly restored original with NOS parts. All areas presentable and serviceable inside and out.

4) GOOD or CLASS 4 Condition: A derivable vehicle needing little or no repair to be functional; or a deteriorated restoration; or a poor amateur restoration.

I had been considering trying to get in the mid 3K range. A local collector and part seller who has a warehouse full of 67-72 trucks and parts has seen the truck several times and suggested I ask mid 4s if I heard him right. That did seem a little optimistic. Perhaps prices in Northern California might be a bit higher than elsewhere? I don’t know. Any California readers have thoughts on this?

I am having a hard time considering letting the 72 go as it drives like a dream, pulls a 9,000 pound church trailer like a mule and has been a lot of fun, but with 6 other vehicles besides the 71 and 72, I can’t convince myself I need both or can justify it.

Thanks again for your answers.

Cliff