700r4 lockup help

[drfloyd]

How far are you test driving? It's not mine but initially after making some sort of change, I wouldn't be concerned with the way it shifts until I was sure I had the overheating issue worked out. That's not good. You've likely burned that fluid.

[DanSaco]

Short test drives, 3 to 5 miles, 30 mph to 60 mph roads. However when this all started I drove about 40 miles not knowing tranny was hot. Got home and noticed seal leaks, replaced input and output seals on the transfer case, as well as pan gasket and filter. So that 40+ mile run may have burned something up, however, when I changed the fluid and filter it was not burnt at all. Still not, after a few test drives. Going to order a temp gauge so I can try to monitor it. Idk how to judge trans temp, but after a few minutes it feels damn hot to the touch.
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[fleetsidelarry]

I have one of these:
https://www.harborfreight.com/automo...ing-60725.html

It's pretty handy. often under $25 with a coupon

[jjzepplin]

You might be overthinking this. I don't recall mine being so finicky but I have a Holley. Any way fleetsidelarry is right about that gadget. I use mine daily from looking for air leaks in my home to measuring the heat in my outboard engine heads. It can be very useful when doing A/C in your car and home as well. I got mine for $19.99 at Lowe's. Back to the trans- I am sure that if I get under my truck after driving a while that my trans pan would be hot as well. Maybe not as hot as you are thinking. But maybe... I do recall my first converter being a $400 P.O.S.! I had a custom one built and have never had an issue since. Only about $200 if I recall. I drove without the lockup engaged for years. The lockup part of the converter is like a manual clutch inside it and just locks the converter from any slippage. You lose about 200 RPMs when it engages and is hard to hear with my engine being kinda loud. I have mine on a manual switch to disconnect when needed but also goes through the brake switch for disengaging when braking. I went with the vacuum type switch and has been very reliable. Maybe you need to rethink your method of engagement. It shouldn't be this hard.

[YoungPup1977]

trans will over heat if TCC is not engaging....as far as your TV cable, if the TCC is not being engaged most likely its not your TV cable....you adjust the cable with the pressure gauge...I believe you mentioned you hooked up a pressure gauge in a earlier post....

most likely you have two separate issues here...no TCC engagement and a mis-adjusted TV cable....
please deal with one issue at a time.....

Adjust the TV cable first....use a pressure gauge to adjust the cable.

most likely your TCC solenoid is bad from wiring errors......still waiting for your pics of the wiring inside the trans pan....drop the pan and take a pic...

also, you mentioned the trans worked 'right" before you changed carb....so how many RPM's was the engine changing before when the TCC engaged ? Should be around 500 RPM on a stock TC with a TCC... or did you think it was going into OD and could not tell if the TCC was engaging ?

long time trying to fix this one....LOL!!!!!!!!

[DanSaco]

So I guess my login times out and I stopped getting notifications. Sorry, I didn't see anymore posts. I dont have a pressure gauge and wouldn't know how to use it if I did. I have changed the tv cable brackets to the proper ones from Jegs, and have adjusted it to the best of my ability. I bought a digital trans temp gauge and installed it, but it doesn't work. Rewired it six times, still won't work right. I can only get a reading of 25 degrees. Emailed the company for help but haven't heard back.
Somebody mentioned dropping the pan to take a picture of wiring. I haven't touched any wiring internally, and it worked before. I had the pan down and changed the filter, the fluid still looked great, not burnt and no buildup in the pan.
I'd really like to know if I should just replace the transmission, or just the torque converter. Or maybe solenoid. I hate to pull this tranny if its fixable, but I'm running out of time. Truck needs to go back on the road for winter when the wife's car gets put away.
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[jjzepplin]

You should be getting emails when someone posts. I mistakenly spammed one email from this site and all emails from that point on got spammed.

[YoungPup1977]

Originally Posted by DanSaco

so should I buy the Jegs part? And use with my factory bracket? Or do I need the bowtie overdrive part instead? Or as well?
It sounds like the tv cable pressure could be my problem. Still not sure what is actually happening when I drive it and it gets hot. Idk If the tcc is sticking locked or unlocked, or maybe I'm not getting 4th. I just don't know. All I know is it doesn't feel right and it gets screaming hot fast. Idk if I have hurt anything or not. First time this happened I drove it a long way like that, not realizing it was getting hot. Blew out some seals, but the fluid never burnt. I replaced all the seals and fluid.
As for the question about the pressure switch, I installed it in the 4th gear pressure port, ran 12v to one terminal from a toggle switch, the other terminal goes over to the plug at the driver's side of tranny and goes to wire A. So presumably, when 4th gear pressure comes up, the switch closes and completes the circuit, and tells the tcc to lock. Or unlock, idk which is which to be honest.
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You say you did not change anything inside the pan, how did you install the pressure switch in the 4th gear pressure port if you did not take the pan off ?

[fleetsidelarry]

YoungPup, he has an external kit. this was discussed earlier, look back to post 43.

DanSaco, look at posts 53 and 54.

I used a pressure gauge on the transmission in my car. the port for it is on the driver's side. the process is not too difficult. these gauges can be found on e-bay. it is really informative, and useful, particularly for setting the tv cable preload.

if you're at all interested, read this post by Clinebarger. at the bottom is a table of pressures for all the gears. you can see all the information that is available from a pressure test. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=526152

[DanSaco]

Originally Posted by YoungPup1977

You say you did not change anything inside the pan, how did you install the pressure switch in the 4th gear pressure port if you did not take the pan off ?

Its on the passenger side of the case, there is a plug you remove and screw the bushing for the sender into.
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[YoungPup1977]

Originally Posted by fleetsidelarry

YoungPup, he has an external kit. this was discussed earlier, look back to post 43.

DanSaco, look at posts 53 and 54.

I used a pressure gauge on the transmission in my car. the port for it is on the driver's side. the process is not too difficult. these gauges can be found on e-bay. it is really informative, and useful, particularly for setting the tv cable preload.

if you're at all interested, read this post by Clinebarger. at the bottom is a table of pressures for all the gears. you can see all the information that is available from a pressure test. http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=526152

So you know exactly how its wired to the actual TCC solenoid ?

[fleetsidelarry]

I was responding to this:

Originally Posted by YoungPup1977

You say you did not change anything inside the pan, how did you install the pressure switch in the 4th gear pressure port if you did not take the pan off ?

which was the same question I had asked earlier. I thought I'd save DanSaco the trouble of having to repeat himself by suggesting you read those previous posts.

So you know exactly how its wired to the actual TCC solenoid ?

all I know is that he apparently has a 2 wire solenoid since he had to ground the "d" pin. I got that from the instructions for a similar kit mentioned in another earlier post

[DanSaco]

Ok, haven't got the trans temp gauge working, but I bought a cheapy harbor freight digital thermometer. Drove the truck today, I can definitely feel the OD working. It is a very small drop in rpms, surprising that's all it is. But it works. After a few miles on back road at 45, took it down the highway about ten miles at about 60-65, measured temp of pan, it's only 128f! Looked up operating temp, should be 150-175. So it seems low, however I did add a really big auxiliary cooler. And idk how accurate the thermometer is, but I'm feeling pretty good that it's not cooking anymore. After a couple minutes idling I checked the cooler lines, was 125 going in and 104 coming out.
Bad news is, I've got a little vibration at highway speed, but not a huge deal, could be tires or driveshaft, idk. Just put a new u-joint in..hopefully there's nothing hurt internally. At this stage, I'm ready to just run it, if the vibration gets worse I should be able to find it eventually.
Lastly, a big problem I found is it will not kick down. I tried driving it in third, slowing down enough that it should kick down, but even under full throttle I couldn't get it to kick down into second. Has to be tv cable adjustment, doesn't it? I've adjusted it repeatedly following directions and watching YouTube videos. So if it's still not right, at this point I think I should probably try to tighten it in small increments to see if I can make it work. What do you think?
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[fleetsidelarry]

I think there may be other possible causes internally but if it downshifted ok with the q-jet logic says it must be the cable adjustment on the edelbrock.

is there slack in the tv cable at idle? there shouldn't be.

this where the pressure gauge test really helped me. there needs to be a preload of 2-3 psi above the unloaded (disconnected or slack cable) pressure at idle to ensure instant pressure rise.

but you don't want to pull it too tight at idle because you also need to make sure there's enough tv cable to match the travel of your throttle cable. of course you don't need the pressure gauge for that setting

(btw you said "I can definitely feel the OD working. It is a very small drop in rpms, surprising that's all it is. But it works.". I know it seems nit-picky, but that is the lock-up you feel, not "the OD". 4th gear is the OD. and yes, mine only drops at most 200 rpm)

[DanSaco]

I adjusted the tv cable as per instructions I've found, butbit seemed to have just a tiny bit of slack at idle position. I tightened it a tiny bit, it downshifted once but other times I thought it should have but didn't. And the shifting still doesn't feel quite right. So I think it's pressure, but I don't want to take too big of a swing at it. I'll tighten it a little bit more and see, it does seem like the little adjustment yesterday helped a little bit.
Also, I want to look at my throttle linkage closely because I feel like I'm not getting all of it. With the pedal to the floorboard, not only does it not want to downshift, it feels like it's at part throttle. I don't think the tv cable is interfering with it, because of that were the case my tv cable would have to be way too tight.
I chanced it and drove it to work today, after a good test drive last night. I'll take another look at it after work. I'm getting there, thanks to all the help here!
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[fleetsidelarry]

you need to do basically what you've suggested. if you haven't already, it helps to get someone to help by sitting in the truck and depressing the gas pedal while you're under the hood.

what you want is full travel on the tv cable at WOT. what I'd do is

with the pedal held or propped at WOT, pull on the tv cable to see if it will extend any more.

if there's no more travel left in the tv cable, unhook it and see if you can get any more travel on the throttle (not tv) cable. if not, try moving the throttle linkage on the side of the carb.

let us know what you find

I know you researched this stuff to death but here's a short video that I like (taught me something that made a big difference on my truck with the edelbrock 1406)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cWQh...ature=youtu.be

[DanSaco]

Aha. The plot thickens. I've learned that my throttle cable is not opening the throttle all the way. Not even close. So that explains why the tv cable adjustment has been impossible to get right. And probably part of the reason it wouldn't kick down. And definitely why the truck feels like a slug if I try to get on it. Precious test drives I wasn't flooring it, as I was trying to be gentle to the trans.
So. As I said before, I bought the geometry correction bracket that someone recommended early on in this thread, it was a Jegs item made for this swap. What's really dumb, however, that it doesn't take into account that people may replace their quadrajet with an edelbrock but not change the intake manifold. So the carb adapter uses the holes they expect you to use, so you can't bolt it down with both rear carb bolts, it doesn't line up. What I did was use the closest carb bolt, so the bracket is as close to right as possible. Doesn't account for my throttle cable being inches too close. Idk if I can put a different bracket behind this new bracket maybe, and run the throttle cable through the existing hole.
I don't feel like the bottom hole, where the tv cable goes thru is out of place. But using the hole above that for the throttle cable is way wrong.
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[YoungPup1977]

Sounds like you are getting it....this thread needs to be renamed to "Wrong way Carb linkage". Not a Trans TCC lockup issue at all, it worked before you worked on it.... GOOD LUCK !!!!

[fleetsidelarry]

actually this may be good news. it sounds like the source of your problem and is now something that can be fixed rather than being a mystery.

I was that "someone" who didn't consider the obvious fact that there was a carb adapter in play. even if I had, I would probably have assumed that the bracket would work. I've seen cheaper "Mr. Gasket"-type brackets that would probably fix the main problem. I'll check

[DanSaco]

I tried a mr gasket kit, complete waste of money. I'm dumb for not realizing that moving the mounting spot of the tv cable and also moving throttle cable was messing up the throttle pull so bad. But, the lack of full throttle is only since adding this bracket, tv cable adjustment problem before wasn't due to that. I just don't understand what the big deal is, a million people must have done this carb swap before. I've done it on nearly every squarebody I've owned, just not with an overdrive tv cable operated trans before.
Haven't had a chance to try to address the carb linkage yet.
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[DanSaco]

Oh, and I figured out why the trans temp gauge doesn't work. Sending unit needs a ground too, and I just put it inline in the rubber line from the auxiliary cooler. Couldn't find the fittings to put it inline at the metal line where it comes out of the radiator.
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[DanSaco]

Sorry for no updates, been working like crazy. So, first off, I modified the carb linkage bracket, added an extension so I could open it all the way. Then that screwed up on me when it loosened up and caught on the idle screw head. Cut down the long extra end of the bolt for the throttle cable, so now it can't touch anything. Threadlocked everything. Got the temp gauge working good, and the shifting is right on. Been leaving it in third around town, unless I get up over about 35 then I'll upshift it. Always feel the OD engage a few seconds later. My temps average about 130, highest I've seen is 148 going up some hills. This is what I'm feeding the trans after it's gone thru the factory cooler then the big auxiliary cooler. So it's likely operating right in its optimal range.
I'd like to thank everyone for all the help and guidance. I couldn't have done it without you guys taking the time to walk me through things.
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[fleetsidelarry]

Awesome man, glad to hear!

btw:

Originally Posted by DanSaco

Been leaving it in third around town, unless I get up over about 35 then I'll upshift it.
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that's exactly what I do, too