Fixing dent/rust on rear quarter panel 95-03

[MASTERBrian]

I have an '03 Burb that decided to start rusting on the lower quarter panel, but it also has a parking lot dent and I had a tree jump out in front of my rear bumper and added to the issue. I'm curious how bad these are to repair. I'll try to upload a pic, but of course the bumper dented the area in front of bumper, the other is on the side. Due to the rust am, I likely going to need to buy a panel to cut and weld in or does it look like I should be ok, just pulling the dent and hoping the rust is just surface at this stage. My fear is rust forming on the back side if I weld in new panel. The suburban will be the pics with rust and maroon paint.

Then yesterday some guy tagged my wife's '95 Yukon 4x4 in the same spot so I need to get that one fixed as well, but at least it's minus the rust. The Yukon will be the picks with Red & Silver Paint.

Guess I don't have the Burb, so I'll get that pic up shortly, but here's the 95 Yukon.

My main questions aren't necessarily concerning paint work, but rather getting the dents pulled out as well as what fillers are going to be the best for this area, since I'm sure a little will be needed. It's been about 20yrs since I've done much body work, so I'm a bit unfamiliar with what's on the market now. I do have a mig welder, dotco, DA, etc.... I'm wondering if I need anything else for this.

Thanks for any guidance to get started.

[MASTERBrian]

Here's pics of the 2003. I'm also including a pic of some rust that appeared on front fender.

[72HuggerK20]

The older yukon needs extensive body repair. Good news is, you won't need to paint the whole quarter since you can put a line in at the color change. You'll need probably need some sort of a dent puller or stud gun to get that out due to the limited access on the backside. Once you get the metal close to the right shape (within 1/4 inch in spots smaller than a quarter, and within 1/8 inch on the majority), you can start filler work. Make sure no spots are high. I always like to prep the metal with a 36 grit pad before filler, and I like to use a product called Fibral made by U-Pol for the first fill. After that, any filler works. Evercoat Rage is the cat's meow. You want to get the filler "close enough" so that you can fix everything with "one more skim coat". Work your filler with 36 grit, and finish it with 80. After that, skim coat the ENTIRE damaged area with a polyester putty (farther out than all of your filler), and start sanding that with 80 to get the resin off the top and finish it with 150. Use a rag between your hand and the panel to find low spots. After you get done with that skim coat, use wash etch primer on the bare metal spots, and then 3-4 coats of urethane primer-surfacer on the repair area, feathering it out like you're flicking a blend out onto the panel. Don't hardline against your tape. Let it cure and block it out with 320, then hit it with 400 or 600 on a soft block to smooth it out a little. Then seal and paint like normal.

The rust is more of a challenge. You will need to prep the entire quarter for paint, so be ready for that. You fix the dents like I described earlier, but the rust is different. You have two options. Get patch panels, or go to the scrap pile and get creative with some hammers. Once you have your panel that will cover all of the rusted out area, plus a little more, cut out the old panel to fit the patch. I repeat, make the hole fit the patch, not the patch fit the hole. I've always lapped new panels in behind old panels so that it's easier to weld. Don't worry about the height difference, filler will take care of it. Weld the patch in. Use weld-through primer. Undercoat the backsides of anything you weld on. If you can't get at it, use cavity wax with a long wand. If you don't coat everything on the back side, you'll be right back where you started. You will want to bodywork (filler work) the entire area where your weld is, extending out quite a ways. Use the same process I described earlier. Let the block do the work and show you the shape. Prep any areas that you plan on blending paint into with 800 grit on a DA, and places where you plan on sealing you only need to go to 600. Good luck!

[72HuggerK20]

Also, plan on removing/installing anything that might be in the way. On the 95 that means the moulding, fender flare, and rear bumper. On the 03, it's all of that and the rear quarter glass. I've seen a whole lot of work ruined by a ****ty tape line along something that should have been removed. Don't be that guy.