How to : Repair a leaky power steering pump

[Shady Rascal]

I hope this helps some folks out there.

First, rebuilt power steering pumps suck. Period. A-1 Cardone is about the main rebuilder of these things and they have a 40% warranty return rate (per the manager at my local OReilly). So, why would you consider buying a rebuilt power steering pump just because your current one leaks ? Chances are 4 out of 10 you're gonna be unhappy if you do. As long as your current pump works okay, other than being leaky, the following procedure will take care of the leaks and save you a fair bit of cashola.

Also, a note, these Saginaw power steering pumps are just about all interchangeable. In this case, I'm doing a late model swap into my 74 truck with serpentine belt setup. But, my serp ps pump had held water and was rusty. So I just grabbed a 78 model pump and resealed it to use instead. I did use the late model reservoir just for continuity of aesthetics with everything else late model. The same seal kit fits them all. The only difference between the 94 model pump and the 78 pump is the old one uses imperial hardware and the newer uses metric. That's a non-issue for me since I'm a new-bolt kind of guy anyway.

Please, follow along, dig in, do-it-yourself. This is basic mechanic work. Being comfortable with changing seals to fix leaks is a rite of passage and is certain to save you oodles of cash throughout your mechanical projects.

First, I took the old cruddy pump and thoroughly cleaned it with a small wire toothbrush and carb spray before ever digging into it and removing the reservoir.



The seal kit is 13 bucks at the parts store or 6 bucks from Rockauto.



To remove the front shaft seal, take a small sharp punch and carefully punch two holes into the seal, opposite each other, taking care not to get too close to the shaft, thereby risking damaging the surface where the seal rides. Then twist a couple of screws into the holes and use side cutters to lever the seal out. This is much easier than you think, Just pry up on the two screws, alternating side to side and the seal with just pull right out.



Use an appropriate sized socket to install the new seal. I started with a 1" socket, but later changed to a 15/16". Lube the seal inner lip before tapping it into place with the socket and a mallet.



You can see the grease there on the seal that I lubed it with prior to installation. Just a little smear is sufficient.



Now, flip the pump around and we are going to change three little rubber seals that go between the pump and the reservoir. The pick is pointing to the seals I'm talking about. Just lift them off with a pick and match them up with the new ones from the seal kit.







I smear a coating of grease onto the new seals to help them stay in place while I'm reinstalling the reservoir.



Next take your pick and lift the old oring off from around the main pump body and replace with the new one from the seal kit.



I like to clamp the pump in a vise like pictured so I can carefully drop the reservoir into place without risk of dislodging the three seals on the back of the pump. Also, apply a smear of grease to the main o ring around the pump to make installation of the reservoir easier.



more in next post....

[Shady Rascal]

Now, drop the reservoir into place. Take care to align the two bolt holes and pressure fitting hole before you seat the reservoir fully into place. If you lubed the o ring around the pump body, the reservoir will go on relatively easy, usually just requiring a thump or two with your hand to seat it down fully.

Next, drop spring into place.



Then this little fella. Note the orientation with the flat end facing outward.



Finally, replace the o ring on the pressure fitting with the new one included in the kit. Take special care to get it into the proper groove. If you leave it in the wrong groove, you will have no power assist when you get done with the job, and pulling that fitting out just to reposition the o ring sucks and is messy.



Tighten the two reservoir bolts and the pressure fitting and reinstall pump.

Done deal.

[68gmsee]

Good pictorial. In the past I have bought complete rebuilt ones but couple of years ago I rebuilt my own. The ones at the auto parts were all dented and looked like cr@p. I even asked to see several in different auto parts stores and they all had dings on them.

[frankslagoon]

I have a hard time getten the reservoirs off without beaten em to death. any ideas?

[Shady Rascal]

Personally, I first clean thoroughly then flow penetrant into the crack between the pump and reservoir. I use the 50/50 penetrant mixture that lots of folks recommend. Then I clamp the iron snout of the pump into my vise and go around the reservoir gently hitting it with a small rubber dead blow hammer. I try to always hit it on the outer extremity where the front and side of the reservoir are folded and brazed together since it's the most sturdy part. Patience and plenty of penetrant are your friends here.

That's what I've had best luck with.

Edit: 50/50 penetrant is half ATF and half acetone. Once I discovered this, I haven't ever wanted or needed store bought penetrants.

[Jstock85]

Shady whats the best method to get the PS pulley back on?

[68gmsee]

Originally Posted by Jstock85

Shady whats the best method to get the PS pulley back on?

Harbor freight has a sale going on labor day. It's the tool I used.

Here's video on it (starting at about 2: 40)
https://youtu.be/QZrH4Xajy9I?t=166

[Jstock85]

Got it. Thanks man!

[mongocanfly]

Oreillys also has the loanerouter pulley installation tools...I just used one to put my pulley back on..

[Jstock85]

got the same tool from auto zone today. took the pump apart and did the cleaning and resealing. tomorrow i plan to paint everything and put back together.

[Ironangel]

Thanks for taking the time to share this Shady...