u bolt help

[Dale99]

My jimmy came with two sets of 2" blocks on each leaf giving it a 4" lift. I am needing to pull 2" out. I need help figuring out which set of ubolts is needed, or the measurements, etc.

I tried searching, but it removes the "u" and just searches on "bolts"

[kenbob87]

you can just measure the ones that are in it right now then subtract 2 inches out of the exsiting ones to figure out the ones you need.

[Dale99]

I started doing that about 30 min ago.

I think I have come up with summit kit 17651 for rears

I think about going with summit "sja-uc2f" for the fronts. Taller then I really need, but cheapest solution as that one oddball one I cant seem to find as a single.

[DirtyLarry]

Actually, your best bet is to have a local driveline or implement shop make you a set of U-bolts. The over-the-counter U-bolts from everybody, including ORD are less than sterling. I am not fond of any U-bolt that uses nyloc type nuts. I prefer the u-bolts that use long tube nut along with the hardened steel washers, I forget the actual name of those type nuts but they take torque and hold torque much better. Most of the cheap U-bolts use nyloc nuts that dang near strip by the time you reach 100 lb ft of torque. The driveline shop here charges $70 for a set of four 5/8” U-bolts. That is a bit high compared to mail order bolts but once you see how cheesy the mail order U-bolts and nuts are, it well worth it.

The driveline shop I use here is a distributor of Dayton U-bolts. Looking at their website there are 3 shops in North Little Rock. I would recommend contacting one of these shops before you order crappy u-bolts.

You can't see them very well but these are only type of U-bolts I will use (on the front and rear) after being burned too many times by cheap bolts. This is the rear of my Suburban


Same brand of local made bolts made for my K10. I double nut this truck just to be safe as it is heavy and has a high torque engine.

[76k10]

How about Tuff Country U-Bolts, Larry? When I installed my lift, they included pretty nice U-bolts with the long style nut.

[DirtyLarry]

Originally Posted by 76k10

How about Tuff Country U-Bolts, Larry? When I installed my lift, they included pretty nice U-bolts with the long style nut.

Can’t say I recall using Tuff Country (unless that is what ORD sells) but if they have long nuts they should be alright. I think the last mail order u-bolts were Superlift brand. I am still not a fan of cheap u-bolts though. The Dayton u-bolts are designed for class 8 trucks and industrial equipment with a yield strength of 409 lb ft of torque according to the local driveline shop (for 5/8" bolts anyway). I like to torque my front and rear u-bolts up around 300 lb ft as the front spring blades like to move around when off road and dang near poke a tire. The heavy duty u-bolts allow for a much higher clamp load to prevent that from happening. Like I say, in the past I’ve barely been able to get 100 -120 lb ft before the cheap u-bolts started to strip. Basically, they start stripping at the same torque value they list in the instructions. That was definitely the case with the Superlift u-bolts. Dang scary!

[BLAZERMAN]

I agree with Larry 100% on this one! I have a pile of cheesy gold irridite u bolts and Nyloc nuts that come with lift kits. I have a local truck spring and brake shop make mine. The steel used in there's are a higher carbon steel and the biggest difference is how the threads are formed, the ones the lift kit company sends you have cut threads...these have actually had material removed in the threading process. With the industrial version the threads are rolled in which no material is removed but compressed making a much stronger threaded section. The double length nuts are just common sense, they grasp more threads per inch which means more holding strength.
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