327 won't start

['63MurderTruck]

I just dropped a 327 into my son's truck and have encountered every obscure issue known to man. I'm at my wits end.

Now, it WILL NOT START.

I've gone through 3 distributors(2 brand new). The newest is an HEI Street Fire Performance(BRAND NEW). I'm getting spark at the plugs. I've got 12v going the dizzy.(yes it's on the correct terminal, and very secure). I've got good ground.

It has BRAND NEW PLUGS AND PLUG WIRES.

It has FUEL.

I've tried starter fluid and pouring gas into the carb.

It turns over, but won't even try to start.

I've had a lot of practice over the last few days, so I am 100% sure that I stuck the Distributor dead on.

I've messed with the advance. No help.

I'm at a complete loss as what to tackle next...

I would greatly, and I mean GREATLY appreciate any and all advice.

[shp4man]

Sounds like timing is off, probably. Or firing order, maybe.

['63MurderTruck]

Double and triple checked the firing order.

I've messed and messed with the timing.

It won't even hiccup...

Originally Posted by shp4man

Sounds like timing is off, probably. Or firing order, maybe.

[CRUZN66]

I had a similar situation, I found that my 12v wire to the distributor wasn't giving a consistent voltage so I ran a new 14ga wire from a keyed terminal on the fuse block directly to the distributor and problem solved.

['63MurderTruck]

My 12v wire is 14ga directly from the fuse block. It has a consistent voltage.

Originally Posted by CRUZN66

I had a similar situation, I found that my 12v wire to the distributor wasn't giving a consistent voltage so I ran a new 14ga wire from a keyed terminal on the fuse block directly to the distributor and problem solved.

[61ChevyPanel]

An engine needs air, fuel, spark and proper timing. What is your initial timing set at? If all of you've verified all plugs are firing and you're sure your distributor isn't 180 degrees off, perhaps the coil is weak.

[shortstep60]

If you are pouring gas down it and it does not want to fire up you don't have spark and if you had the timing off it would back fire make sure you are getting spark to the plugs.

[PGSigns]

OK less start from step one.
Does the distributor have 12 volts to the proper terminal ( I have seen the hei's with the power wire on the tach side) in both the start and run position?
Have you brought the #1 cylinder up to top dead center on the compression stroke and verified the alignment to the post on the distributor you are using for the #1 plug wire? Pull the plug and put your finger over the plug hole and slowly bump it over till it pumps air and then line up the timing mark.
Have you verified the firing order of 18436572 and that it is going in the right direction? As a reminder just bump the motor over to see what direction the rotor moves.
Have you looked to see if the engine is getting a squirt of fuel when you pump the throttle?
Is the fuel still any good?
Have you pulled the plugs (all 8) to see if you have flooded the engine while working on other things?
Does the engine have good compression?
If you go through this list of things and are all yes to the questions it should fire. You said you had spark so the process above should get you running.
Jimmy

[Metman57]

Did you hear it run before you installed it? You might pull a valve cover and make sure the valves are opening.

[MikeN]

Originally Posted by Metman57

Did you hear it run before you installed it? You might pull a valve cover and make sure the valves are opening.

Also (and I know because I once made this mistake myself) if the valves were adjusted too tight, they never fully close, you never get compression, and the engine won't start.

It would be worth your while to run a compression check before you spend any more money.

['63MurderTruck]

I've tried 3 different distributors, 2 are BRAND NEW HEI dizzy's

Originally Posted by 61ChevyPanel

An engine needs air, fuel, spark and proper timing. What is your initial timing set at? If all of you've verified all plugs are firing and you're sure your distributor isn't 180 degrees off, perhaps the coil is weak.

['63MurderTruck]

I am. Good purple spark.

Originally Posted by shortstep60

If you are pouring gas down it and it does not want to fire up you don't have spark and if you had the timing off it would back fire make sure you are getting spark to the plugs.

['63MurderTruck]

I've done all of this except:

Checking compression, and pulling all 8 spark plugs. I will do that tomorrow.

Originally Posted by PGSigns

OK less start from step one.
Does the distributor have 12 volts to the proper terminal ( I have seen the hei's with the power wire on the tach side) in both the start and run position?
Have you brought the #1 cylinder up to top dead center on the compression stroke and verified the alignment to the post on the distributor you are using for the #1 plug wire? Pull the plug and put your finger over the plug hole and slowly bump it over till it pumps air and then line up the timing mark.
Have you verified the firing order of 18436572 and that it is going in the right direction? As a reminder just bump the motor over to see what direction the rotor moves.
Have you looked to see if the engine is getting a squirt of fuel when you pump the throttle?
Is the fuel still any good?
Have you pulled the plugs (all 8) to see if you have flooded the engine while working on other things?
Does the engine have good compression?
If you go through this list of things and are all yes to the questions it should fire. You said you had spark so the process above should get you running.
Jimmy

['63MurderTruck]

I started it once, briefly, about a year ago.

I removed the rocker arms, rods, and lifters and cleaned them up.

When reinstalling, I set them to zero lash plus 1/2 turn. I'm gonna try backing them off at least a 1/4 turn each, just to make sure they valves are opening. Do you concur?

Originally Posted by Metman57

Did you hear it run before you installed it? You might pull a valve cover and make sure the valves are opening.

['63MurderTruck]

Yes, a compression check is the first thing on my list tomorrow. thanks

Originally Posted by MikeN

Also (and I know because I once made this mistake myself) if the valves were adjusted too tight, they never fully close, you never get compression, and the engine won't start.

It would be worth your while to run a compression check before you spend any more money.

[vince1]

Cylinders numbered 1, 3, 5, 7 down the left and 2, 4, 6, 8 down the right?

I once changed heads on a Mercedes 6 cyl and had no compression but I don't think that is a possibility with yours. You should be able to tell cranking it over.

Got enough advance on that HEI unit?

Try some new premium fuel?

[geezer#99]

Originally Posted by '63MurderTruck

I started it once, briefly, about a year ago.

I removed the rocker arms, rods, and lifters and cleaned them up.

When reinstalling, I set them to zero lash plus 1/2 turn. I'm gonna try backing them off at least a 1/4 turn each, just to make sure they valves are opening. Do you concur?

Did you put the lifters back into the same place?

When you adjust the valves don't do the twist the pushrod method, do the wiggle the slack out method. THen give them all a 1/4 turn.
If that gets you going then come back and adjust them again or do it hot and running.

[Dead Parrot]

Do your compression checks before adjusting the valves. If the compression numbers are good, the valve nuts are close enough for now.

While your plugs are out, if they were the original plugs for the point distributor, adjust your gap to .045.

[Brad54]

Double-check your source for the distributor wiring diagram/plug wires.

I had a problem once with my '54 Buick: One of my sources for the wiring diagram had the wrong order for the plug wires on the distributor.

The wrong firing order on the distributor would cause what you're describing.
-Brad

['63MurderTruck]

I did the twisted method, my first time adjusting valves. I'm definitely going to back them off some and see what happens. thanks.

Originally Posted by geezer#99

Did you put the lifters back into the same place?

When you adjust the valves don't do the twist the pushrod method, do the wiggle the slack out method. THen give them all a 1/4 turn.
If that gets you going then come back and adjust them again or do it hot and running.

['63MurderTruck]

Yeah, they are all already gapped at .045

Okay, I'll do the compression test BEFORE messing with the valves. makes sense. Thanks

Originally Posted by Dead Parrot

Do your compression checks before adjusting the valves. If the compression numbers are good, the valve nuts are close enough for now.

While your plugs are out, if they were the original plugs for the point distributor, adjust your gap to .045.

['63MurderTruck]

18436572

Originally Posted by brad54

double-check your source for the distributor wiring diagram/plug wires.

I had a problem once with my '54 buick: One of my sources for the wiring diagram had the wrong order for the plug wires on the distributor.

The wrong firing order on the distributor would cause what you're describing.
-brad

[MySons68C20]

Pass!

['63MurderTruck]

*UPDATE*

Finally got it started. It seems that the major culprit ended up being the carburetor. It's an Edelbrock 1406, I have a rebuild kit and I'm going to do that today.

Thanks for all the advice.

When you're new at wrenching every thing helps

[geezer#99]

And inquiring minds want to know (at least I do) what was wrong with the carb?