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Old 06-09-2005, 09:45 PM   #1
squidj
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Steering box in the way (HELP)

I have a 1954 Chevy SWB that I am installing a 350 in. I did not change the front end, and I am not able to install the engine due to the steering box being inside the frame rails. Does anyone know an alternate method for the steering box? I sure could use some help. Thanks "SQUID"
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Old 06-11-2005, 10:51 PM   #2
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Hey, i just read an article on stovebolt.com and it was talking about reversing the exhaust manifolds on a 305. Check out the faq. page. it has articles on this. Hope this helps!
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Old 06-12-2005, 08:54 AM   #3
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you reply

Quote:
Originally Posted by RUDEDAWG
Hey, i just read an article on stovebolt.com and it was talking about reversing the exhaust manifolds on a 305. Check out the faq. page. it has articles on this. Hope this helps!

I have decided to go with an S-10 Frame now, hopefully this will fix the problem as well as upgrade the suspension.

However I would like to thank you for responding to my question. I was really begining to wonder how bad my question was. Thanks
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Old 06-16-2005, 03:55 PM   #4
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Not a bad question by any means. Many take care of the problem with an IFS setup, mounting the steering gear outside the frame.
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Old 06-18-2005, 03:50 PM   #5
tkeahi
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I hear that most people space the steering box out from the frame about 1.5" and/or offset the engine to the passenger side a little to make some room. I'm going though the same thing right now and it looks REALLY tight. I centered the engine and it looks like I'm going to have to use some tight exhaust manifolds (ram's horns or block huggers) AND space the box out from the frame.

Here's a link with an old article about the swap:
http://home.att.net/~bobsplayce/adv8artla.html

Last edited by tkeahi; 06-18-2005 at 03:52 PM.
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Old 06-19-2005, 12:03 PM   #6
chaco
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My buddy just fixed this same problem. He spaced the box to the left with a piece of square tubbing i think it was inch and a half I dont remember thickness but it looked 1/8th inch then he had his steering arm bent to comadate the difference. He also had to shave the brake arm on the brake pedal to get full depression. I could get pics if needed
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Old 06-25-2005, 02:26 PM   #7
Phat
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You only have to space the steering box over 1.5 inches I have never had pedal problems at all. I also have never had to bend the pitman arm. Rams horn and block hugger wont fit well but new style log manifolds work well with rear dumps. This swap has been being done since 1955 when the 265 came out.
DONT GO S-10 Its a mess .If you think you have problems with a steering box hang on tight....Nothing about the s-10 is worth doing. Its not cheap Its NOT easy and most time looks crummy. It is also too narrow in the front. 100s of these s-10 frames swaps laying around that will never see the road. the ones that do look pretty bad.
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Old 06-26-2005, 05:48 AM   #8
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hate to tell ya phat but there are more s10 frames under these truck then u think & they work fine & w/o problems
this post has 3 that are slammed on the ground using s10 frames & they are daily drivers http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/s...ead.php?t=8491 & that is one of many sites i have using an s10 frame
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Old 06-26-2005, 06:23 AM   #9
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I messed with a bunch of exhaust options yesterday - I tried (1) ram's horns, (2) Sanderson block huggers (center dump), and (3) stock '79 Nova cast exhaust manifolds.

What I found out is that anything that is center dump (ram's horn, block huggers) hits the steering box very badly. The cast stock exhaust manifold actually had the best steering clearance - it has a dent about where the steering box goes - but would still require the stock steering box to be moved out about 1.5-2". The stock (rear dump) exhaust manifold would cause brake arm interference, though.

I also looked at a bunch of chevy exhaust manifolds to see if there were any that ran high like the old 265 exhaust and were front dump...if you could run a right side 1996-1997 Camaro manifold on the drivers side it looks like it would clear the steering box:

http://www.1aauto.com/1A/ExhaustMani...P1390072/67778

..as might this right side one off a Monte carlo:

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...spagename=WDVW

But even with No exhaust on there at all and the engine centered between the frame rails the steering box would have to move about an inch out- it contacts the spark plug. At least it does on my straight plug heads - maybe angle plug heads are different.

I think I'm going to bite the bullet any buy a power steering kit that uses a later model steering box. That way I can use ram's horns to clear the stock brake arm and center the engine in the frame.
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Old 06-26-2005, 06:29 AM   #10
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By the way, I tried the reversed 305 manifold trick - it didn't even come close to working. I emailed the guy quoted on the stovebolt FAQ page who reccommended that fix and he told me that he didn't remember ever saying that. I also traded emails with someone who used a set of old 265 manifolds and he said he still had to offset the engine 1" to the passenger side.
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Old 06-26-2005, 10:33 AM   #11
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I hate too tell yah TooMany......Not one of the sites i would be even thinking about building anything off of. Bunch of hackers that think craftmanship is a bad word(well most) Its a cult site that prides it self on building mostly JUNK from junk.(i said most not all)
Having said that i see more guys spend so much time cutting floors and firewalls and fenders to get the s-10 to fit.........................Not worth it when you could have done the complete job for 1500-2000 bucks in 2 days.
I have never seen and s-10 were the frontend does not just plain look silly with its wheels tucked in 5 inches per side. There is no fixing it. Yep i know of about 3 in my area that drive but the effort was staggering when i know the stock frame works great. Most guys end up shortening or making longer. Makes no since at all. Steering box problems. to hang bumpers.The back kick up does not work on most swaps so what do you get? A front clip that is too narrow and wont except many engines with out cutting your firewall completely out.SBC will fit but it close on the back.
If you were going through all that trouble whats wrong with a stock frame and a IFS kit or homebuilt square tube frame with IFS.
I did not write this too bust on you...not my intent. But when your all done do and article on it...You will have a book.
If i wrote how to do the same thing it would be 1 page. Lot of work no gain is all i am saying
Its worse when guy think s-10s will go under cars.
Do these for a living so i have a bit of knowledge. I have put c-4 vette stuff under these trucks with stock frames and stangIIs few others but the s-10 just is way off the scale on being the greastest thing as most guys are saying. tkeahi i will see if i have pixs of the last crate motor i put in a stock steering box truck. You may just be having problems if your using the front tube motor mount as i make my own and put the engine a bit higher in the chassis.
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Old 06-26-2005, 02:04 PM   #12
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>tkeahi i will see if i have pixs of the last crate motor i put in a stock steering box truck. You may just be having problems if your using the front tube motor mount as i make my own and put the engine a bit higher in the chassis.>

Phat,

Thanks, pictures would be really helpful. I think you're exactly right, mounting the engine a touch higher (and maybe an inch further forward) would help with the steering box clearance a lot.

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Old 07-21-2005, 04:28 PM   #13
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I looked every were for pixs of the completed job but just cant find them. These are cheap and easy front mounts. i use 69 z-28 motor mounts on about all chevy v-8 motors. I will keep diggin for the pix with the steering box moved. Forget the front mount thats just my mock up mount on ADs.It just rests on the frame. Maybe you got it done?Figured it out?
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