6 inch lift questions

[379redneck]

I just bought a Superlift 6 inch suspension lift for my truck. The kit comes with front leaf srings, pitman arm, rear blocks, new shocks, and all the hardware needed for it. The only thing I need to get that I know of are the brake line extensions.

I was thinking about doing it myself but Im concerned about the modification that needs to be done to the front driveshaft. It says I need to grind the CV cluster or "excessive screwage may occure". Would I be better off putting the lift on myself and taking the driveshaft somewhere to have that done. The only suspension work I have ever done was replacing my shocks, so this is all new to me.

Should I do it myself and learn or take it to someone and make sure it gets done right?

What is the cv cluster and what exactly needs to be done to it?

Do I need any special tools to do it?

Thanks

[bikes&bowties]

If you take off the front shaft from the tcase and let the joint bend. You will see little tab type things that hit. Grind em smaller so there is no binding. Simple to do yourself. Not surgery
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[6772owner]

I will try to answer this as best as I can and Im sure someone else will chime in....

I think they are referring to the front driveshaft at the transfer case, I believe certain models had a "double U-joint" at the t-case. At the 6" height these joints bind against the "union" between the two u-joints, so you have to grind out some material for clearence. I would look at your front shaft and make sure it is this style first, but I would say that a good driveline shop should be able to take care of this for you.

I would also recommend you get longer s/s braided brakelines, the relocation usually just involves removing the line from the middle of the frame and dropping it down to the bottom of the frame. You have to carefully bend the hardline to do this and then you still have soft rubber lines that are easily damaged....

[379redneck]

Do I need to take the cv joint apart to do it?

[TheWhiteElephant]

Originally Posted by 379redneck

Do I need to take the cv joint apart to do it?

No.

If I'm not mistaken, you might be able to "get away with" just lowering your transfer case. The t-case might have the original spacers there already. You just have to move them from above the crossmember to the bottom.

Depending on the condition of your suspension, whether you have the time or motivation, you can really do this yourself, preferably with the help of a friend. I would also recommend a breaker bar, penetrant to loosen old, rusty bolts, jackstands, etc. The only issues you might have are wrestling with the steering arm removal.

I'll be installing a 4" lift on my '73 K20 hopefully within a couple of weeks and I'll be posting plenty of pics in my build thread.

[TheWhiteElephant]

If you have any doubts, you can also remove the front driveshaft and take it somewhere to have them grind the material, but you don't have to take it apart.

[special-K]

I've used the Tuff Country 6" lift and they didn't say anything about clearancing the double cardon joint. I didn't do it and never had a problem. I did have to have my rear driveshaft made 2" longer. If you do grind it,take care to take even amounts off each side to hopefully keep it balanced. I also recommend longer brake hoses. You need to open the system and bleed anyway,just to move to the bottom of the frame.
I'm going to do the same lift on my '72 K2500 soon and will check the clearance on the double cardon joint. I'm going to wait on the driveshaft until I can get an actual measurement. It should be the same,but "should be" doesn't work well around here.

[379redneck]

Ok. I think I will see how much clearence there is with the lift on it before I do anything to it.

How hard is it to lower the transfer case? Is it just unbolting it from the frame and sliding in a spacer?

As for the brake lines, does relocating the brake lines to the bottom of the frame give them enough length so I can get away without the extensions for a little bit? I was reading the instructions and it isnt very clear on this.

Thanks for the help

[Burt4x4]

Good working vibration free drivelines will make all the difference in how your rig drives.
Do the lift, measure your new distances from yoke too yoke front and back. Take thoes numbers along with your drivelines to a driveline shop and haveum made longer. Without this you will be running a fully extended drivelines, this may get you down the street for a 12pk of beer but as soon as you get off road in a twisty way they will pull apart.

I am not a fan of droping the T-Case/Tranny mount but I have seen that done. I would rather have the correct drivelines than bandade it that way.
.02c

The brake lines are easy..you can even run it with them simply not conencted too the frame - ziptie - temporarly until you either buy stanless braded lines or you can get the extended rubber lines from Napa. I use too have the part number for them but that was years ago. If you take in your short line they can matchit up with a longer one.

Go For It!!
Take pics!

[TheWhiteElephant]

Originally Posted by 379redneck

Ok. I think I will see how much clearence there is with the lift on it before I do anything to it.

How hard is it to lower the transfer case? Is it just unbolting it from the frame and sliding in a spacer?

As for the brake lines, does relocating the brake lines to the bottom of the frame give them enough length so I can get away without the extensions for a little bit? I was reading the instructions and it isnt very clear on this.

Thanks for the help

Lowering the t-case is a piece of cake. Yes, just unbolting, relocating the spacer to the other side, and bolt it up again. Just have a jack and stands available for safety. You might not have the factory spacers there, so be sure to look before you unbolt.

[v8rail]

HEY 379REDNECK,
Sounds like a great project. One suggestion though, for your brake lines try a place called Off Road Design www.offroaddesign.com. They make 6" longer hoses. Worked great on my project.

As a professional in the truck business, don't cut corners on your brakes!

Post some pics when done.

[special-K]

I tossed the transfer case drop that came with my Tuff Country kit. I'm sorry,I just don't get what good they are supposed to do. It seems to me by lowering the t-case you are angling the engine to t-case lower in the rear and increasing the angle as much as you are decreasing. You sacrifice one inch of center clearance that you wanted to gain by larger tires and lift. 67-72 engines already sets at an angle and back into the firewall and a t-case drop makes that worse. And,what do you do about the torque brace on the side of the case? I just know I never used one and never missed it either. What am I missing here?

[Burt4x4]

Originally Posted by special-K

I tossed the transfer case drop that came with my Tuff Country kit. I'm sorry,I just don't get what good they are supposed to do. It seems to me by lowering the t-case you are angling the engine to t-case lower in the rear and increasing the angle as much as you are decreasing. You sacrifice one inch of center clearance that you wanted to gain by larger tires and lift. 67-72 engines already sets at an angle and back into the firewall and a t-case drop makes that worse. And,what do you do about the torque brace on the side of the case? I just know I never used one and never missed it either. What am I missing here?

Ya...Me too

[TheWhiteElephant]

Originally Posted by special-K

I tossed the transfer case drop that came with my Tuff Country kit. I'm sorry,I just don't get what good they are supposed to do. It seems to me by lowering the t-case you are angling the engine to t-case lower in the rear and increasing the angle as much as you are decreasing. You sacrifice one inch of center clearance that you wanted to gain by larger tires and lift. 67-72 engines already sets at an angle and back into the firewall and a t-case drop makes that worse. And,what do you do about the torque brace on the side of the case? I just know I never used one and never missed it either. What am I missing here?

Not sure if I'm following you, but by lowering the t-case you decrease both the front and rear driveshaft angles. My '79 K5 had a 4 inch lift with some noticeable vibration that was "fixed" when I lowered the t-case.

Granted, the K5 has a shorter wheelbase, but it definitely worked for me. I'm also not sure if there is a difference between the '67-'72 models vs. the '73 and up.

[379redneck]

So I need to get the front and rear driveshafts lengthend or will the rear probobly be ok?

My other concern is the steering arm. Reading the instructions makes it sound like theres a lot of adjustment that needs to be done with putting it on. Reading everything online seems like the hardest part is getting the old one off. Do I need to do any adjustment when I change it or is it reletively easy?

Thanks for the help, I just dont want to start this and not realize what im getting myself into.
I will definatley post pics when I get it on the truck, and durring the installation.

[special-K]

I've never lifted a post-72 truck over 4". My experience was with a '72. The wheel base is a couple-three inches longer and that is in the front somewhere. Just get'er up there and check that the spline is at about the center of the travel within the yoke when sitting level. Bare in mind there will be a bit of settlement once the truck gets driven a bit. It's not much,but just consider that.
The adjustment on the drag link is easy. It will need to be lengthened a bit. The main thing is to center the steering box,then do the adjustment. So,do that before you remove the old arm. Turn to full lock to one side,count turns to opposite lock,and come back 1/2 that to center. Then,it's a matter of extending the drag link to hook up the ends. Lastly,worry about aligning the steering wheel.

[379redneck]

How do you adjust the draglink?

[special-K]

The drag link is made up of two ends,like big tie rod ends,and a sleeve that they thread into. It really is the same thing as a tie rod,but it connects the steering box (by way of pitman arm) to the axle (by way of the steering arm). On the sleeve at each end you'll see a bolt & nut. Just loosen both nuts on those bolts and thread the ends out to make longer. I pull the steering arm (rear) end and turn that for a while (about 1/2 of what it needs) then turn the sleeve and rear end to thread out of the front end.

[379redneck]

Sounds easy enough, but Im sure my truck will somehow make it difficult.

Whats the easiest way to get the steering arm off? I have read that hitting the side of it will get it off.

[TheWhiteElephant]

Originally Posted by 379redneck

Sounds easy enough, but Im sure my truck will somehow make it difficult.

Whats the easiest way to get the steering arm off? I have read that hitting the side of it will get it off.

I believe you can rent the tool at the parts store. They're not too expensive if you want to buy it.

If the suspension alignment seems daunting, don't sweat it. Just take it to an alignment shop for the final adjustment. I'll probably do that with mine as it alignments here are reasonably priced.

[86k20mudddigger]

if your gonna spend the money for every thing do it right the first time. spend the extra 200-250 bucks to get ur drive shaft legthend. i tried to go the cheap route and was blowing through U joints every few moths.

[379redneck]

Hmmm... I think I might do that instead. The truck needs an alignment anyway, they didnt do it because im running dual shocks on one side and a single on the other and I was going to fix it, which would screw up the alignment.

So then I just get the steering arm on and make the drag link long enough so it reaches and let them worry about the rest?

It would make me a little more comfortable knowing that someone who knows about how it should be set up looks it over.

[379redneck]

if your gonna spend the money for every thing do it right the first time. spend the extra 200-250 bucks to get ur drive shaft legthend. i tried to go the cheap route and was blowing through U joints every few moths.

Once I get it lifted I will look into it. Right now im tight on money since I quit my job. I will just have to figure out a way to keep it away from the woods until I can get everything else done.

[special-K]

You can handle it,you'll see once you get into it. No big deal on the drag link adjustment. It's not a thing that affects how the truck goes down the road like other alignments. The worst thing if you just extend it to get it hooked up without any other thought is you can turn the wheels sharper one way and not enough the other way. It may or may not feel a it "rolly" going straight,like you're driving on top of a big pipe. But,that won't be you because you'll be centering the steering box/steering wheel,right?
The steering arm will fight you. Take the 3 nuts off,then I'd soak it with PB Blaster a long time. Then,soak it with PB Blaster. When you're done that soak it with PB Blaster. Like a week before and do it every day. I remove the tie rod end to get a better strike on it. and let 'er rip. I take a sharpened cold chisel and (attempt to) drive it into the seam after I've hit on it a good bit. Any shock you apply is a good thing,down/up,it all helps break it free. What you are dealing with are the 3 tapered split cones on the studs in the steering arm. Don't booger them up,but if you knock on them some with a dull punch,like you're trying to turn them,it will help. If you booger the knuckle up at the steering arm seam you can dress it up with a file. Just don't get crazy and remember,you're tossing the steering arm and keeping the knuckle.

[379redneck]

Would a joint fork help get it off? I was watching videos on youtube and they used it on the pitman arm and it makes it seem pretty easy. I will try doing it myself.