Starter Wiring Problem

[sjarrett71]

I know on a point type ignition system the purple wire goes to the "S" terminal and the yellow wire goes to the "R" terminal and the battery cable goes to the big lug. My problem is my starter solenoid has no "R" terminal, therefore nowhere to put my yellow wire. It only has the big lug and the "S" terminal. It looks like nothing is broken and the solenoid was made that way. I guess I could get another solenoid but is there a quicker way to fix it?

I do not have a spare HEI sitting around anymore and I'd like to get this thing fired up. Anyone have any suggestions?

[panhandler62]

I got this from "e how":

To accomplish this, connect a 3A/400PIV diode (or Powermaster part # 600 ) in line with the MOTOR SIDE of the solenoid. (Note: This is the terminal on the solenoid which has the cable from inside the starter motor connected to it. It is opposite the BATTERY terminal on the solenoid. The cathode or banded end of the diode goes away from the starter. This allows current to go from the starter to the coil and yet not from the coil to the starter.)

The point of this connection is to supply higher tension (12v) to the points during cranking (but only during cranking) to aid in starts. You don't want to bypass the ballast system during running or you will go through points like Otis through pork rinds.

[sjarrett71]

Sounds like it would just be easier to get a new solenoid????

[panhandler62]

It might be... or an HEI.

[sjarrett71]

Definately going to an HEI in the near future. Just trying to get the truck running to see what condition the motor is in.

[VetteVet]

Originally Posted by sjarrett71

Definately going to an HEI in the near future. Just trying to get the truck running to see what condition the motor is in.

In that case just run a wire from the ignition unfused terminal on the fuse panel to a simple switch and then to the + terminal on the coil. Don;t forget to turn it off when the engine starts or you'll burn up the points and maybe the coil as well. You can also just run a wire from the battery post or the alternator output to the coil positive just to get the engine running. Then disconnect it after start-up.
You can run a Ford relay like this one below but it would be more permanent.



The positive cable from the battery would split at the solenoid and continue on to the starter with the little jumper to activate the starter solenoid. The purple wire that goes to the starter solenoid is re-routed to the Ford solenoid so when the key is turned to start the relay closes and power goes through the large cable to the starter and the small wire also gets 12 volts to the coil
+ as shown. That wire will be hot anytime the key is on but no power will feed back to the solenoid so no diode is required.

[sjarrett71]

Thanks VetteVet. I like to run the Ford solenoid setup anyway (just cheap insurance for future starting problems).

I'm going to go ahead and use the advise on the hot wire to the + terminal on the coil and then unhook it after I get it started. So that wire is just to get it started and isn't needed for continuous running of the engine?

[sjarrett71]

Ok, got the truck running. Went ahead and changed the solenoid, wired it up, and she fired right up! Now the ignition switch either needs changed or the starter need shimmed because it hangs up and continues to spin with the motor. I think I will try the ignition switch first unless anyone has any more words of wisdom.

[JEC32]

Don't mean to chime in on this conversation, I have the same issue only running an HEI system. Some months ago I was having starter problems(solenoid), decided to go with the ford type solenoid setup posted on this website. Now I have no problems on startup other than the fact it continues to run for a few seconds after startup. What problems can come up if not fixed? In checking on shimming the starter I noticed the flywheel has a wobble , could this have been done buy this starter?

[franken]

Various posters may want to learn a bit about electrical stuff and Ohm's law. Its not magic, and you should be able to think for yourselves a little...
One thing to think about is why not to use a ford solenoid, which adds another part to something people have trouble troubleshooting. Adding moving parts to a broken system is not making the problem easier to solve.

Clue: The problem is usually resistive wiring.

[JEC32]

Well that helps a lot Franken, Im assuming about 80% of the people that come on this forum are looking for a little assistance with a situation they have run into! Not all of us understand, and that is why we come here!

[VetteVet]

Or maybe it's heat soak in the starter solenoid, which causes resistance, which the GM wiring cannot compensate for, which the Ford solenoid helps to deliver and overcome, giving the poor hobbiest a solution to a problem, that allows him/her to enjoy their vehicles without spending a ton of money.

I don't think Henry would take kindly to someone saying his solenoids were troublesome and not to use them.

One thing I always think about when someone posts on the forum and asks for advice with a problem, is that maybe they are an IT specialist, or doctor or lawyer, or maybe they play a mean guitar, so I would never chastise them for not knowing Ohms law.