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Old 05-18-2016, 09:26 AM   #1
BFoley
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Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

After performing maintenance on my front brakes, I figured I might as well clean up the manual hubs on my front axle. I would like to remove the hubs and check/clean/re-grease all bearings. The problem I am running into now is that I cannot figure out how to remove the washer (with holes) between the two lock nuts.



Does this washer spin off or should it pull off? I am having trouble finding good rebuild/maintenance info online for these hubs. Also, when I re-assemble, any idea of lock-nut torque requirements?

As always , any help is greatly appreciated.
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Old 05-18-2016, 09:33 AM   #2
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

It just pulls off.I use a bent ice pick to get them out. The fun one is the big snap ring. I use the ice pick to help with that one also.
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Old 05-18-2016, 10:17 AM   #3
JIMs70GMC
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

Yep, just pull it off. It has a tab that slides in a grove on the spindle. I use a dental pick that has bee re-purposed for automotive work.
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1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 05-18-2016, 11:40 AM   #4
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by JIMs70GMC View Post
Yep, just pull it off. It has a tab that slides in a grove on the spindle. I use a dental pick that has bee re-purposed for automotive work.
I tried pulling it using a pick but I guess I will need to pull harder. There was enough resistance when I tried pulling it that it made me a little nervous. Better safe than sorry.

Thanks everyone for the info!
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Old 05-18-2016, 12:52 PM   #5
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by BFoley View Post
I tried pulling it using a pick but I guess I will need to pull harder. There was enough resistance when I tried pulling it that it made me a little nervous. Better safe than sorry.

Thanks everyone for the info!
The "tab" might be stuck in the threads. See if you can see it in the notch in the spindle.

Jim
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1970 K25, 8' stepside bed 350/465/205 44 up front, 60 in the rear 4.10s rolling on 33" Dunlop MTs
1986 K5, 350/465/208 Dana 60/14 bolt from a cucv 36" Super Swampers TSL/SX
1983 K20 w/ CUCV axles, 350/700R4/208 sitting on 37" Goodyears
1986 M1031 6.2 diesel, TH400/NP205 locker in the rear and a LS in the front, all stock for now.....
1986 K30, 350/400/205 dana 60 and 14 bolt. I kept the drivetrain. Body/bad and chassis are gone.
1981 K30, 350/465/205 dana 60 and dually 14 bolt. Has a G80, and a flat bed. Going to replace the flat bed.

1985 K20, 350/400/208 10 bolt and SF 14 bolt. I wonder where I can find some 1 tons. Hmmmmm
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Old 05-18-2016, 05:21 PM   #6
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

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Originally Posted by JIMs70GMC View Post
The "tab" might be stuck in the threads. See if you can see it in the notch in the spindle.

Jim
Correct. Just take a flat blade screwdriver and lightly tap in one of the holes in either direction. You'll see it jump loose.

Also, check the inner bearing race to make sure it is in solid and not spinning, real common on those hubs
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Old 05-18-2016, 07:32 PM   #7
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

This may be off base, but that looks similar to something in my (K20) front hubs. Not sure what it's called.... a collar? It is threaded on, and held in place by one (or maybe two) tiny allen-head screws inside one or two of those holes. Back the screws out and you can then unthread the collar. under that you'll find a slotted washer. The allan screws extend into the slots, and keep the collar from spinning off.
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Old 05-18-2016, 08:39 PM   #8
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

Does that tab ring with the holes go on a pin sticking out of the inside big nut on that year axle kinda like my '81?
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Old 05-19-2016, 12:24 AM   #9
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

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Does that tab ring with the holes go on a pin sticking out of the inside big nut on that year axle kinda like my '81?
Yes
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Old 05-19-2016, 07:57 AM   #10
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

They can rotate a bit and jam in that key way, but grease creates a suction as well. I like to use two picks to make it easier
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Old 05-19-2016, 09:20 AM   #11
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

So an update...

I brought a few heavy-duty scribes/picks (with 90 deg. ends) home last night and after spending almost 2 hours on it, I still have not gotten it off all the way. While I made progress, there is still at least 3/8 worth of threads before I am off.

It is pivoting on the threads and acting as though there is interference between in I.D. of the washer and the O.D. of the threads. My guess is that the washer I.D. was damaged or tolerances were off during the manufacturing process. I am going with the latter as there seems to be no damage. I am going to do some digging today and hopefully I can purchase a new one. If I can, I am going to cut this one off.
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Old 05-19-2016, 09:22 AM   #12
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

Quote:
Originally Posted by Stocker View Post
This may be off base, but that looks similar to something in my (K20) front hubs. Not sure what it's called.... a collar? It is threaded on, and held in place by one (or maybe two) tiny allen-head screws inside one or two of those holes. Back the screws out and you can then unthread the collar. under that you'll find a slotted washer. The allan screws extend into the slots, and keep the collar from spinning off.
Two of the holes seemed to have a "pin" in them. I did not see this post yesterday. While I think this is more of a washer than a nut, I really hope that it was not supposed to be spun off...
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Old 05-19-2016, 11:21 AM   #13
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

It's just a washer. Being an old drum brake system the nuts may have been changed or upgraded years ago and the thickness of the 'tab' may be just that....too thick (wide). Nothing a sharp flat file can't take down before it goes back together
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Old 05-21-2016, 11:12 AM   #14
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

It's off. 5 minutes with a dremmel carbide bit. Figured I needed to replace it anyway. Bought new washers for both sides and will replace inside spindle seals as well so I can remove and repack all bearings.
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Old 05-21-2016, 12:07 PM   #15
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

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It's off. 5 minutes with a dremmel carbide bit. Figured I needed to replace it anyway. Bought new washers for both sides and will replace inside spindle seals as well so I can remove and repack all bearings.
Where did you by the thick dab washers with the holes ? Dealer or elswhere ?

I have one that broke and replaced with a full floating old rear axle tap washer
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Old 05-21-2016, 01:10 PM   #16
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

Good price here

http://www.dennysdriveshaft.com/p220...c_k5_k10_.html
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Old 05-21-2016, 03:49 PM   #17
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

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Where did you by the thick dab washers with the holes ? Dealer or elswhere ?

I have one that broke and replaced with a full floating old rear axle tap washer
I bought mine from 4wheelerparts.com was $3 and change for two.
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Old 05-22-2016, 12:21 AM   #18
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrai...&t_pn=WAR32720

http://www.4wheelparts.com/Drivetrai...pn=D%2fS28068X

This Stage 8 Locking Spindle Nut doesnt look to swift. Only one nut and only the tab and slot in the spindle to keep it from loosening. Need a 2nd jam nut. Stock set up looks more reliable
http://www.stage8.com/xlock.html
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Last edited by GSP7; 05-22-2016 at 12:44 AM.
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Old 05-22-2016, 01:08 AM   #19
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

What technique do you other guys use tightening the outside jam nut with the special socket.

I just tighten the jam nut with a short breaker bar.

Anyone use a drop of removable locktight? I never have
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Old 05-22-2016, 12:40 PM   #20
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

After you set the wheel bearing preload with the inside nut, you slide the washer on, and then tighten the outer nut on the washer. No locktite - just tighten the heck out of it. I don't have a spec for "heck-to-ft/lbs" but I usually get silly tight on the outer one. I will try to check my Chiltons and see what it says the Dana 44 outer nut should be torqued to.
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Old 05-22-2016, 01:30 PM   #21
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

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After you set the wheel bearing preload with the inside nut, you slide the washer on, and then tighten the outer nut on the washer. No locktite - just tighten the heck out of it. I don't have a spec for "heck-to-ft/lbs" but I usually get silly tight on the outer one. I will try to check my Chiltons and see what it says the Dana 44 outer nut should be torqued to.
i was going to eventually investigate more into the preload. It seems it is "50 ft.-lb. then back of 1/4 turn" but I wanted to to verify if that this was for the inside nut and not outside. I believe your response answers this.
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Old 05-22-2016, 11:55 PM   #22
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

The inside nut torque I don't know. I have done this job on front and rear wheel bearings so many times I cannot count. On the inside, I pack the bearing with grease. Then tighten while spinning the hub and get it pretty tight. This is just to seat the bearing. Then I back off, and tighten again but not as much...sort of get some firm drag, then back off a little. I have never done 50 ft/lbs and then 1/4 turn back off. That seems rather loose. Once you are satisfied with the preload (however you choose to do it), then the outer nut can get tightened down real tight. The outer nut is going to keep your inner nut from backing out and taking the wheel off with it! Good luck
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Old 05-23-2016, 12:47 AM   #23
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

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The inside nut torque I don't know. I have done this job on front and rear wheel bearings so many times I cannot count. On the inside, I pack the bearing with grease. Then tighten while spinning the hub and get it pretty tight. This is just to seat the bearing. Then I back off, and tighten again but not as much...sort of get some firm drag, then back off a little. I have never done 50 ft/lbs and then 1/4 turn back off. That seems rather loose. Once you are satisfied with the preload (however you choose to do it), then the outer nut can get tightened down real tight. The outer nut is going to keep your inner nut from backing out and taking the wheel off with it! Good luck
I'm going to add a bit to this that might go without saying.
The 1/4 turn back off seems like 3/16 to much to me.

I tighten them down and put the wheel on and to see if there is any play I push and pull on the top and bottom of the tire. If it is to loose you will feel it. I then spin the tire and tighten the first nut until the tire just stops spining really free. Then I just back it off bearly and put the other nut on and tighten the crap out of it.

Run it for a mile or so if the hub is hot it is to tight.Then jack it up and push and pull the tire on the top and bottom if it moves it is to loose. If all is good run it some more and check it again in 20 or so miles if it is good you should be good to go for a long time.
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Old 05-24-2016, 05:17 PM   #24
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Re: Dana 44/Warn M7 Help

That's how I do it too

I always do it with the wheel and tire on so you feel any looseness
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