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Old 04-27-2017, 08:31 PM   #26
jjzepplin
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Re: 59 truck with axle flip and removed load leaves. Major axle hop!

I do have a lead foot! Even in my 4x4. She loves the carbon blow out. Will spit it sideways easy. Still want to know about the bolts.
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Old 04-27-2017, 11:22 PM   #27
Stepside Jim
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Re: 59 truck with axle flip and removed load leaves. Major axle hop!

Quote:
Originally Posted by jjzepplin View Post
Where are the two bolts going at the spring perches? Through the springs?
Thank for the kind comments guys. The idea is to understand the theory of the parts we buy to better allow us to fabricate and alter parts for our specific needs. Plus, it's just so darn cool to look and say, " I made that".



In the above pic you can see my top plate. I found this next picture that has better detail.



Ok, the two bolts, plus the two on the other side goes through a drop plates that comes down from the top plate that goes against the top of the springs when the axle U bolts are tightened. I left just enough space between the leaf spring and the side plates for the head of the bolts to fit.

The idea was, as mentioned by OrrieG, I like to have about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch between the rubber snubber and the leaf spring. Using the two bolts on each side allowed some adjustment to get this clearance.

In the final set-up I assembled the whole truck for the proper sitting height, then used these bolts to adjust for the rubber snubber clearance, then removed the traction bar and welded the top spring plate to the main traction bar side rails.

I felt that regardless how tight these bolts were, since there was no solid spacers or locking devise, the torque of the engine could cause these bolts to loose grip under load. So a full weld once the traction bars were set to their proper setting, is holding everything solid now.

Thanks for asking jjzepplin, I'm happy to answer.
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Last edited by Stepside Jim; 04-27-2017 at 11:28 PM.
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Old 04-28-2017, 05:18 AM   #28
jjzepplin
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Stepside Jim View Post
Thank for the kind comments guys. The idea is to understand the theory of the parts we buy to better allow us to fabricate and alter parts for our specific needs. Plus, it's just so darn cool to look and say, " I made that".



In the above pic you can see my top plate. I found this next picture that has better detail.



Ok, the two bolts, plus the two on the other side goes through a drop plates that comes down from the top plate that goes against the top of the springs when the axle U bolts are tightened. I left just enough space between the leaf spring and the side plates for the head of the bolts to fit.

The idea was, as mentioned by OrrieG, I like to have about a 1/2 to 3/4 inch between the rubber snubber and the leaf spring. Using the two bolts on each side allowed some adjustment to get this clearance.

In the final set-up I assembled the whole truck for the proper sitting height, then used these bolts to adjust for the rubber snubber clearance, then removed the traction bar and welded the top spring plate to the main traction bar side rails.

I felt that regardless how tight these bolts were, since there was no solid spacers or locking devise, the torque of the engine could cause these bolts to loose grip under load. So a full weld once the traction bars were set to their proper setting, is holding everything solid now.

Thanks for asking jjzepplin, I'm happy to answer.
Very cool!
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