cam question

[richard2717]

Can anyone tell me what I should expect from this cam? I don't know a whole lot about engine building. I got this motor as part of a trade out and it came out of a dirt track car with only a couple laps before they totaled the car. I never got to hear it run (deaf anyway) it is in a 350 bored 60 over. roller rockers (don't know ratio) has stud girdles, Victor Jr intake. It has a magneto for distributor and had a 1150 Holley on top. I was advised to not run the mag if I used motor for street and he kept the holley but gave me an 850 that may need rebuild. The rockers were removed when the motor was pulled and are in a box labeled along with the push rods. I have been toying with idea of putting motor in my 68 panel but don't want something that is going to need wrenching on all the time since I would have to get someone to do it.

Thanks in advance
Richard

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[A1971Blazer]

very aggressive solid lift cam....won't be street friendly and will require a stall converter.
ground mainly for high rpm power and it's a solid lift by the specified .016 lash clearance...

[richard2717]

it had a muncie 4 speed behind it before. Thanks for the info on it. I would rather find out before I went thru the trouble to install although I do have a narrowed 9'' with some 33x21.5 sportsmans that would finish out the package

[geezer#99]

Looks like a nice smooth idle cam!
It’ll be smooth at about 1800 rpm.
Won’t start working until 4500 rpm.
Should be good to 8 grand though!
You’ll need a 4500 stall and at least 4.88 gears.

The best thing about that cam is it hints at what else is in the motor. Compression should be over 12 to 1. Even a change to a milder cam won’t make that motor useable on the street.
You’d need to re-engineer the whole motor. Not worth your time or money.
Sell it or it’s parts and build a better streetable motor.

[richard2717]

So it got me back interested and I went out and took a few pics of different things. Can anyone decipher the numbers on the front pad? I am pretty sure the rear numbers denote 350 since it is 010 block casting number. The rocker arms are stamped CC on one side and 1.6 on the other. I assume CC is competition cams brand and 1.6 is the ratio? The Holley fuel pump looks like 1/2'' fittings and there is a Carter pump with it as well.

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[geezer#99]

Suffix code says it’s a 1975 350 4 bolt truck motor.

http://nastyz28.com/gm-chevy-codes/c...s-suffix-9.php

[Tom]

That's a huge cam for a 350. Big even for a 454 lol.

[YoungPup1977]

The block was not decked so I doubt if its really a "race engine". Any one who knows how to build a 8K rpm motor would deck the block...with the stamping still on the deck most likely the block has not been decked. I am sure lots of people think they build race engines all the time without decking the block but in my opinion I deck every block to my specs of building a engine. good luck on your 8K rpm engine.

[scott123]

This is par for the course for a lot of dirt cars. Tons of head, tons of cam and tons of carburetors and tons of gear.

A lot of times the bottom ends do not measure up.

We just put together a limited sportsman car on the cheap. It was a lot of old parts laying around in the parts bus.

It was a bone stock 350, standard bore, stock rods, stock cast crank, 4 bolt block, pretty much a grocery getter.

On top was a Victor Jr. intake, a cam similar to the one posted above and a set of well worked Dart heads. The 1st week with a Holley 500 two barrel and the next week with a 780CFM Holley.

The car made good power and was just a few tenths off the front runners with $$$$$ in their engines/cars.

The problem with buying parts off a race car is that they have had the **** beat out of them. Sort of like buying a 4WD with a lift kit that was driven by a teenager and being told 'never been in the mud'. You sort of know. Same with the race parts.

Scott

[scott123]

The engine turned 7400 at one track and about 7600 at another. Way past expectations for a stock bottom end.

It made 4 races....1st ten laps before a wreck ended the night. Three twenty lap features. And the last one on lap 10 or so.....they are more than likely still sweeping up the parts. Came apart around 6800 and threw a chunk of the lifter valley thru the bottom of the intake. Tried real hard to put #6 over into the #8 hole.

Scott

[richard2717]

So i just pulled valve cover off so i could get some pics. It has angle plug heads on it but no cast marking on the front of the heads. The only other angle plug heads I have seen were the old double hump heads. This motor only had 3 to 4 laps on it before he totaled the car. He was 74 at the time so decided he had enough. How do I go about figuring out what heads these are? Sorry for all the newbie questions but I am really not well versed at all in engines.


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[A1971Blazer]

Find a racer and sell him that motor..then get a good, strong running "street-able" 350 or 383...you'll be much happier in the long run....in that 68 panel...it'll suck the bottom out of the fuel tank...

[richard2717]

Ok so just figured out they are Phase 2 Bow Tie cylinder heads

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

Find a racer and sell him that motor..then get a good, strong running "street-able" 350 or 383...you'll be much happier in the long run....in that 68 panel...it'll suck the bottom out of the fuel tank...

From what I am reading, I tend to agree. Just looking at the inlet and outlet on the fuel pump was enough to scare me.


Anyone care to wager what it ought to be worth if I sold it? I hate to see it sit if it is not going to do me any good

Thanks for all the replies

Richard

[scott123]

Most used parts do not go for an awful lot.

I'd keep the heads if they are still usable (not cracked). If they have not been cut too much they can be used to make a really solid street engine.

Since it is relatively fresh the crank and rods should be of value. The pistons not so much.

The intake is not very street-able, the cam and the carb pretty much the same.

I am not sure what the value would be as I am weary of buying used race parts from some one I do not know. If selling it complete the best bet may be to catch someone who trashed a nice motor and needs one to get a couple races in if they are in a points race and need to be at the races.

Other than that I would make a tally sheet going from scratch and using the race parts and see which one works out best.

Best of luck.

Scott

[Captainfab]

IMO either tear it apart and use what you can to build yourself a streetable engine, or put that one back together and get it running and then sell it. It is a whole lot easier to sell a complete engine that you know runs, when you can actually start it and run it for someone interested in buying it. I have never had a problem selling a engine that a person could hear run.

[scott123]

Agreed.

Complete and running has a better shot of being sold.

Selling one to go in a work truck or a daily driver or the family sedan is a bit easier than selling a dirt car engine.

I would keep the engine apart use what I could to get to a street ride and then try to sell the rest.

If my end goal were a street ride I would not gamble the money in putting one back together that the eventual sell would be suspect at best.

LOL. But I am cheap that way.

Best of luck.

S

[richard2717]

Thanks Guys. Will look around local to see if anyone needs one. From what I have researched this morning, That magneto is pretty expensive to buy new.

[67C10Step]

Lots of good advice here. Since you stated your lack of knowledge on engines I think as well you would be much better off letting this one go and getting something that better fits your end needs. If not, you will end up frustrated and throw a lot of good money after bad trying to make it into something it is not.

Ignorance is not a bad thing as it is fixable with time and experience. Trying to make a dirt track engine a streetable car/truck engine is probably not the best way to cut your teeth in engine building.

You have made the first hurdle though. Willing to even try is the first step and don't worry about making a mistake. If a man tells you he's never made a mistake he is either a liar or hasn't even tried to do much.

[PGSigns]

I have sold a ton of used race parts and here is my suggestion. Clean it up on the outside. Pull the pan and the heads. Take a good look at what is inside and advertise it based on truly what is there. That way the buyer can see what head work was done and what the rotating assembly looks like. If you find a really good rotating assembly and nice head work you get one price, stock stuff a bit less. As a buyer of race stuff I want to see it apart or fresh off the dyno with a build sheet. Let me know if you need help with what is there. I can give the list to my race engine builder to help with value or find it a home.
Jimmy

[richard2717]

Originally Posted by A1971Blazer

very aggressive solid lift cam....won't be street friendly and will require a stall converter.
ground mainly for high rpm power and it's a solid lift by the specified .016 lash clearance...

was able to pull heads off last night. Engine has a roller cam (lifters) in it.

The piston on the left I wiped off with just a dry rag.

I was hoping there would be a stamp on the pistons to tell me if standard or over sized but did not see one. I am not going to pull the rotating assembly apart either.

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[richard2717]

This is the carb he gave me with it. I seem to remember him saying it was an 850. Can anyone confirm that by these pics? If not, what else would need to be seen to identify?

Thanks

[mattfranklin]

It looks like a ton of fun parts. The crazy part of me says get a manual tranny for it and just run it. But that's me.

[Captainfab]

I find it a little odd that it has dished pistons. I wonder if it is actually a 383? You might measure the stroke and see if it is 3-3/4". From what little of the crank I can see it does look like it may be forged.

As for the carb, I do not know other than it is a double pumper. You might search for Holley 4150 SR series, or even contact Holley directly.

The cylinders do look pretty nice. You may be able to change the cam and possibly the heads and have a nice street engine.

[61K10]

alot of dirt track eng's have special specs for what ever class they run in.(why the disc pistons around 9to1?) I would change the cam/carb/mag and run it. Vic-jr will work on the street also. Or buy a boring crate eng. Good luck---